eds Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 I have just received some more parts from Paddocks. I ordered new stub axles which have come in a Karsons box. Not heard of them before but at least not Britpart! Also lower swivel pins which are also Karsons. And new OEM swivel balls which are Britpart. How robust is the black coating, anyone had any experience. If chrome scratches what chance do these black balls have? Do new Land Rovers really use these ones.............? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Looking at how readily the coating chips off corners while fitting the outer races, I'm not sure that I'd regard it as terribly robust. Remains to be seen though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Britpart swivels seem OK.... run them on mine for a fair while now in the gloopy stuff too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 The coating is teflon, and the thickness of it varies from one manufacturer to another. You can't get Chrome anymore unless you manage to buy old stock or pay a small fortune to get yours done. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 Surely Brit[part OEM means that they are exactly the same as genuine ones...? Am I naive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Surely Brit[part OEM means that they are exactly the same as genuine ones...? Same general shape on a good day The fragility/brittleness of the coating surprised me a bit - given how resilient some of the spray on/bake on coatings can be, I'd not expected it to be quite so delicate. Does mean I'm being quite careful handling them prior to fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 Earlier in the year I had to rebuild the front hubs on a rather nice LTWT. The parts were 'OEM' and were bought from the local L/R main agent. The ball was obviously corrugated and had pits within the sweep of the seal. The top pin was so loose in the railko bush that it would undoubtedly have failed the MOT for excessive play. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 Based on your reassuring information Les I did check what Paddocks have sent me - Britpart OEM swivels. Lucky I did because the 2 swivels they sent are totally different colours and actually turn out to be different swivels, earlier and later models. It does show though that the coatings are different. Not sure if black is better than grey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 Well, I've reassembled the first of mine, used all the shims in the pack - and I'm seeing a preload of about 6kg. I see the LR manual says 1.16-1.46kg, while the Haynes manual says 3.6-4.5kg. A) Which is correct? B) Have I goofed something (can't really see what)? C) What's a normal shim requirement for new balls & bearings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 I did my swivels with a preload of 4kg (after inertia). Does yours have roller bearings top and bottom or a railko bush (like mine)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 Roller - sorry, should have said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 Sorry if I'm teaching grandma to suck eggs, but you are taking the measurement after overcoming inertia? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 Yes, but it's only about 1kg lower than the static reading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 I also assume the swivel seal is not in? I would try it with a couple of the smaller shims from the other side and see if that improves it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 Yup, that's not on yet either. Wondering about reusing the old shim(s) along with the new ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 When I did mine I ended up using one of the old shims. Try adding some shims, either old ones or borrow some new ones from the other side. See if it gets better. then either stick with the old ones (will be fine when cleaned up) or buy some more shims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 I think I'll slacken the bolts off equally & use a feeler gauge to get a rough idea of how much extra shimming I need, then once I've got an approximation do it properly. The other thing that surprises me slightly is the kit has no joint washer for the retaining plate - then I thought about it and couldn't really see that it would do much good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 It needs to be done with the bolts clamped down. Borrow some shims from the other side and it will give you an idea of what you need. Do you mean the retaining plate for the swivel seal? Mine is just siliconed into the housing and then the plate bolted on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 I found that when using silicone to glue seal the swivel retaining plate that I got a better seal if you let the silicone cure for a wee while (till its got a good skin on the bead). also you may find that using a single retaining plate is not enough, I got a local engineering place to make me up some 2.5mm ones as I found the genuine LR parts simply warped, alternatively, use 2! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Went and got some more shims - used 0.80 of shim in the end. Oh well, plenty of room for adjustment later. Using the feeler gauge I came out with an approximation of 0.090, so not a completely lost cause. The oil seal retaining plate is indeed what I was wittering about - I've not bothered Hylomaring it as it isn't a seal, just a seal retainer. Well, so the logic goes... Onto the next one - should be faster having gone through it once. Oh, one thing - warmed the 1 shot, started to pipe it in - into a very cold swivel, so the stuff congealed again... I'll see if it has settled tomorrow, I've only got about half the pack in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 I would have used EP90 since yours is an older vehicle with the railko bush. But glad you're getting there anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Ed's is a railko, mine is a '96 110, so bearings top & bottom - I'm just hijacking his thread (Sorry Ed!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Ah, that'll teach me to read! Fair enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 A couple of tricks for putting one shot in a swivel housing. Turn the steering on full lock, so that the back of the cv is exposed/ball is out of the way, and will allow the grease to go in easier. Also remove one of the top pin bolts to allow air out as the grease goes in. Pressing the sachet against the filler hole causes an air trap and can either prevent the grease from going in or cause it to squeeze back out of the filler hole. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 No worries about the hijack! I am seriously worried about these Britpart swivels, I can't think that a few microns of teflon is going to be up to the job. I'm going up the road tomorrow to see if I can score a pair of grade A chrome ones second hand. The local man has hundreds of broken Land Rovers. Any idea of price these things sell for? I am too afraid to fit Britpart unless all other options are exhausted. As for them being OEM this seems to be the biggest misleading con I have heard of recently. How are they allowed to do it. Unless the parts come off the same manufacturing line then OEM is a lie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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