Typsey Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Hi guys, I took my beloved 200K+ disco to a garage to have the cambelt changed. Since that time, she has been gutless on any type of hill. She'll also barely do 70 on the flat. I have taken her back in and he has advanced the injector pump which has just made it sound like a ford transit engine with no improvement in power. He is now talking about adjusting the fuel pump. He insists that the job was done correctly but I can't help thinking that this is all just masking the issue as apposed to fixing the real problem. Can I get some feedback and guidance from you all so that I can get this fixed once and for all please? Typsey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Sounds like you need to find a garage who knows how to do the job properly - its not hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 As above, find someone who will do the job properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 I'd second that, A properly set timing belt makes a massive difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 I'd guarantee that the timing is out, either that or the belt is loose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 I'd agree with all above comments. If the belt change was done as time/mileage replacement and all was ok before hand, then the garage has nor done it propoerly. Transit clatter is advanced timing (detonation), or even worse - valve/piston issues due to incorrect crank/cam timing position. There's no way that the injector pump would need touching after a belt change. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Typsey Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 Guys, Thank you very much for the advice. I thought that it would probably be the case that the timing belt was fitted incorrectly but wanted to check my conclusions with people of more experience. I'll let you know how I get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 If you get the belt out one notch between the injector pump and the crank the engine will not even start. I know, because when I did my first cambelt, after putting the whole shebang back together I found it wouldn't start so I had to take it all apart again. Nowadays I fit and tension the belt and then flick the starter - if the engine fires I stop it and reassemble. If it does not fire I investigate the crank timing. However, if the camshaft is out by a tooth the engine will fire and run but with reduced power. I know this because a Land Rover stealer™ changed my first belt many years ago and it was only when I changed the belt myself later that I found out that the cam timing was out. I won't say which stealer™ did this job but they are in Pretoria South Africa. What we also do here is adjust the timing after the belt has been fitted so the engine 'fires' at 10°BTDC. Unfortunately specialist equipment is required for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Nowadays I fit and tension the belt and then flick the starter - if the engine fires I stop it and reassemble. If it does not fire I investigate the crank timing. I always to a quick test start too but check to make sure you have some thing plugged into the oil cooler pipes if you have taken the rad out or its gets messy very quickly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 I never take the rad out.... But I see your point. I start and stop the engine so quickly I doubt whether any mess could be made. All I listen for is one cylinder to fire After all, I don't even fit the crank damper at this point so running the engine is not a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 I don't remove the rad either, but I always start and rev the engine to make sure all is ok before putting it all back together. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 I never test start, no need Pin the pump and crank, and use a mirror for the cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dooroy Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Were fuel lines disturbed - lift pump could be failing and OK until disturbed . Had this exact problem with my brothers 300 Tdi - had engine out to do cambelt ,clutch etc . Timing was spot on - but when it went back on the road it was barely able to climb the hill to his house and down on power generally . Had been fine up to that . Fitted new lift pump from LR and as he said it was like a new Disco - probably had been failing for a while but very gradually . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Unless the garage has a new and interesting way of doing the cambelt, the fuel lines/ lift pump don't get touched either. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dooroy Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 I know that in the normal course of events the fuel lines wouldn't be disturbed at all - it was just a thought . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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