stuck Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 Gents, I'm trying to set the timing on my 4.6 & I'm struggling so would appreciate your help. With No 1 at TDC I have marked a line on to the water pump and marked the trigger wheel tooth next to it. Problem I have is with the strobe connected and the engine ticking over the two marks are approx 90 degrees apart!? I wouldn't have thought the engine would even start with the timing that far out would it? I can move the trigger wheel sensor bracket a bit I guess but 90 degrees out suggests I'm doing something wrong to me! Any ideas? Thanks. Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 er....are you sure you are at tdc and not 180 degrees out ? Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 No I'm not sure NIge, If I'm honest it's so long since I've had to set / check timing I can't remember how to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 Reckon you have your plug leads wrongly wired, and your no1 isn't no1, and you are reading off the 3 or 8 coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 No definately not that. No 1 cylinder front left as you are sat in the cab. HT leads are on correctly I think but if someone can post a pic of a 4.6 with Nige's bracket & numbered HT's Ill certainly double check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksmelly Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 But it also depends how you wired your plug on the coil packs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 http://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/faq.php Top pic opens 3rd pic gives abcd to coil packs - check colours each end but If I recall I wired it A B C & D to Edis "Correctly" Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 Cheers Nige, On this engine can you remember where the VR sensor sat in relation to the trigger wheel? I currently have it sat at 3 O'clock looking from the front, I haven't tried but I guess it could be moved between 1 & 5 O'clock. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted December 31, 2011 Author Share Posted December 31, 2011 Right, Quick update: Check HT leads and EDIS wiring as per Nige's pics all good. Checked timing marks with No 1 at TDC & both valves closed again all good Strove still shows timing to be 90 degrees out, not good. Any ideas chaps as this is driving me nuts! Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Mick, how did you find TDC ? Are you running it with the edis jumper plug out ? Like this it'll be 10 degreest out iirc (will have to check the exact details). Is the truck driveable ? i.e. you wish to pop down ? Edit : without teaching you to suck eggs, you've got the timing light working correctly haven't you ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted January 6, 2012 Author Share Posted January 6, 2012 Hi Gordon, Found TDC by removing rocker cover, bored out an old spark plug (what a bitch that is) and inserting a length of nylon rod. Turn crank until No.1 is at TDC with both valves closed & mark pulley either side of TDC, timing mark slap bang in the middle. Took the plugs out tonight & something is certainly out of whack: Plug on No.1 looks like it's straight out of the box (all 8 have done less than 100 miles) Timing marks aside engine is certainly not running on all 8 as the pic would indicate. Can't drive it over as the mot has expired & I don't think it's going to pass the emissions some how running on 7 cylinders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 As it is only one, swap out ht lead with a known good, as out is wasted spark you can pretty much eliminate the coil packs. Other thing is injector, check connector for damage, remove injector, fit a piece of fuel pipe to it and give it a blow, it should be shut at this point. Next give it 12v across the terminals, and blow again, it should blow clearly through. You could also have a duff plug, even if new. If all the above are ok, then there must be a fault in the loom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted January 6, 2012 Author Share Posted January 6, 2012 Cheers for that Bowie. I've never had to remove an injector, does a RAVE manual exist for the 4.6? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Not sure, but to remove the injector you unbolt the fuel rail and pull it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 This any help? Rover V8's will put up with insanely wrong timing & fuelling and still run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Cheers for that Bowie. I've never had to remove an injector, does a RAVE manual exist for the 4.6? Yes, the RAVEs for the DII and the P38 have it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 No idea Mick. I'm offshore at the moment, if you're still battling when i fly in i'll shoot up and see you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 Cheers G, I may need to take you up on that. I've found the reason No.1 plug looked so new, injector wasn't ehm, injecting. Sorted that and it's running a lot better. I've also moved the crank sensor as far as it will go on the bracket but the timing marks still look about 60 degrees out, this is confusing the hell out of me. Engine is running a lot better just don't understand the timing mark issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Maybe I can clarify Fridge's diagram a little: With No 1 at TDC (Doesn't matter which stroke, as long as it's TDC) the crank sensor should be 5 teeth behind the gap. Doesn't matter where around the pulley is, as long as the gap is 5 teeth in front. So, if you're bringing it up to TDC in the running direction (clockwise from the front), your sensor will first pass the gap and then at TDC it will be on the 5th tooth after the gap. Check numbers 1 and 6 are on the same coil and connected to spark A (that's the closest to the centre of the EDIS connector of the coil pack pins) Then try the timing light again - both on number 1 lead and number 6 lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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