Mutley Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Ok i,m thinking of having a go at this job in the near future (No I haven't had too much to drink....Yes I need looking at)! I know there is a good bit of info about doing this job on here somewhere when I can find it. My problem will be when I start the job obviously the Landy's out of commission till fixed, and as I live out in the sticks a bit i will need to have everything to hand. So basically what do I need to get before i start?...... what is likely to break?.....What special tools?....What should i renew/replace? Cheers for any info on this matter Mutley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 What engine would be a start? I think there are guides for the 200Tdi and 300Tdi engines in the technical archive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Can't remember which Tdi engine you've got, Tech Archive index you'll find timing belt change threads for both Tdi engines in here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted December 31, 2011 Author Share Posted December 31, 2011 Sorry guys it's a 300tdi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 get the right belt kit, based on your engine number. There are two types of tensioner early and late. mmmmmm Tools bit of an investment required for this job, unless you have them. viscous fan spanner Coolant, for the refill and a few decent new hoseclips 55-80mm locking tool for the crankshaft (£80 difflock) locking pins for timing (difflock £160 ) puller for crank damper and gear (included in £160 above) 27mm 3/4" impact grade socket and 3/4" breaker bar torque wrench 1/2" socket set some loctite thread locker maybe a new crank bolt inner and outer oil seals for the crankshaft, and a seal puller tool (sealey £15) 8mm? male hex socket (like an stubby allen key but 1/2" socket on the end) There are a few tools which make your life easier mentioned above, the essential one is the crank locking tool you will struggle to hold the engine still without it. The puller/locking pins you can probably make or use alternates. A friend with a car for the bits you forget, and a sense of humour. Or avoid the tool spend and take it to the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 Did my one in a day, drained coolant, removed radiator and front grill then followed the info by Les in Tech archive. You need a good quality timing kit. Viscous spanner, pullers and I think it was a 9.5mm drill. The drill locks the fuel pump. I might add that I had to do my one twice as got it 1 tooth out first time. Never had the flywheel locking pin just used the shaft keys and marks (still wonder if I should have used one and may still get something and check it again) To be honest it only cost me the price of the kit, borrowed viscous spanner - had a drill - borrowed pullers. Torque wrench would be handy. Give it a go - it good to learn. Always check it - check it again - have a cup of tea and check it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 Hmmmm still drying my eyes after being comforted by the wife. Sniff... So what is the name of this puller thing and what size does it need to be, so i can ask round to borrow one? Sniff.. Cheers Mutley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 Found this on you know where Bay, good price 40 notes (cheaper than above) I know it's home made but seem to have sold a few and got good feedback on it, any thoughts? PULLER for 300tdi CRANK & TIMING PULLEYS + TIMING PINS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 If you don't want to pay out, I'd be happy to lend my timing kit so you can do the job, it would only cost you postage both ways. my kit is identical to to this kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 Thanks for the offer Western, but as i have a birthday coming up (early March) and the wife is always struggling for ideas And it would seem to be a useful bit of kit to have lying around, any thoughts on the above item? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 Have look at the link I just added to my earlier reply, everything in the box you'll need including the puller, price not much different, would be a good birthday present Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 Sorry Western didn't see that bit.....Just had a look though and think I'll go with it, looks more professional and it comes in a pretty box too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 If you don't want to pay out, I'd be happy to lend my timing kit so you can do the job, it would only cost you postage both ways. my kit is identical to to this kit I have used the kit several times and can't fault it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 Looks like a good kit - I think I will also order one if they will post it to Scotland that is, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy'd Gentry Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 You can't beat the sensation of achieving this job yourself! I followed the guide in the Tech archive! This alone is worth donating to the forum for! (Not that this is a blatent plug) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 ok so doing my homework here......Have read archive thread on this and took some notes of what you guys have said. How difficult is it to set the timing or what can you do to make sure it's right, as don't want to be going through this lot agian to alter/adjust the thing? is it just a case of following the thread and checking to make sure everything is in line/lined up and that nothing has moved? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 This is the tool from Difflock, haven't seen aywhere else. And a cheap puller to get those oil seals out I like the puller kit Western, wish i had found that when I bought mine originally, £100 cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 Is this item An essential piece of kit or would a socket and breaker bar work with a bit of care? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 That tool is for locking the crank while you use a socket and breaker bar to get the nut off! When I did mine I used the transmission to lock it, though I have heard reports of the clutch slipping when attempting this. So one would have to make a locking tool that picked up on the crank damper bolts and locked against the chassis or ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 Is this item An essential piece of kit or would a socket and breaker bar work with a bit of care? It's essential IMHO, it stops the crankshaft turning when trying to undo or do the crankshaft bolt back up. It wedges underneath the chassis rails. To give you an idea, I had mine fitted. with a 3/4" drive britool bar and a draper expert 3/4" 27mm socket with a 6 ft length of scaffold pipe to tighten the crank bolt up tight enough. you tighten up with torque wrench to 180Nm? then another 90 degrees to the right, which is the back breaker. If your crank moves during this operation you won't know how much you need extra. If your clutch is iffy you'l never get it tight and theres a chance you could damage something gearbox related. Pervious to the 3/4" bits I have now I tried a 1/2" breaker bar and sheared the breaker bar pin. Then the new 3/4" breaker bar sheared the 3/4" to 1/2" adaptor I was using on a 1/2" drive 27mm socket. So I had to go and buy a 3/4" britool 27mm 12 point socket. So yes I would consider it essential, you can get the bolt undone using the starter motor trick (didn't work for me) but tightening can only be done by hand. link to instructions so you can see how it works http://www.difflock.com/downloads/DIFFLOCK-Anti-Rotation.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 someone posted a diagram of how to make a crank holding tool found it http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=38651&hl in reb78's 2nd post in the thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 I had forgotten that thread Western, the homemade tool would be cheaper and most likley work, a fair bit of twisting stress on the long bolts into the damper though? The lr tool boss reaches right to the damper face this means less chance of bending/snapping the bolts as they are under 100% shear force Good thread, Some good discussion into the pro's and cons of bolt removal. Mutley, white90's pic on page two shows how the lr/difflock tool goes together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 Is this item An essential piece of kit or would a socket and breaker bar work with a bit of care? I used an impact gun to undo the crank, because it gives lots of rapid whallops the crank doesn't slip against the clutch...and i'm rather lazy so didn't fancy wrestling with a breaker bar Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty43 Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 I've not managed to slip the clutch on either my old 200tdi or the new 300tdi so I wouldn't bother with the crank locking tool. The trick of using the starter to undo the nut works a treat for me. I paid £16 for a set of locking pins and an ordinary three legged pulled will remove the crank pulley. The only tool that is slightly out of the ordinary and is definately required is a deflection type torque wrench so that you can exert a steady pressure on the belt while tensioning it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted January 2, 2012 Author Share Posted January 2, 2012 Me I'm not the luckiest bloke alive and anything involved in taking a chance just wont work in my favour! And there is no way the wife will buy me 2 pressies at these prices, so I think I will look to borrow or make something to do the job, maybe along the lines of what Western has pointed out......something to ponder anyway as it's not urgent, but would like it done before June. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.