pitbull63 Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I,m having problems with my 2,25 petrol engined series 3 cutting out as I lift off the throttle when approaching junctions,slowing down in traffic etc. Its got a Weber carb on it ,running the oil bath air cleaner and electronic ignition.I have adjusted the tick-over slightly to run a little quicker but that has not helped.I have also noticed today that the old girl back-fires through the carb on deceleration too. Any ideas what it might be and how I could remedy it please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexi Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Set the carb up like this. http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/34_ICT_tunning.htm dirt can be a prob. Check the vac advance. Is it idling at standstill ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitbull63 Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 It idles grand to be honest but needs setting up quite often.I,ll look at the vac advance tomorrow cheers. Not had a petrol engined series before so its all a bit strange to me LOL.Found that hills and even slight inclines are really killing it too which is worrying me as it seems to be worse than my old 109 diesel But I,m wondering if the 235 tyres are partially to blame? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexi Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 If it idles ok then vac advance is unlikely to be problem. The petrol should be lots livlier than 2.25 diesel. check fuel supply and clean carb first anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 sounds like running weak , might be that jet is blocked and itsbeen set up on main jet to run . If you intend keeping for a while , bin that carb and fit an SU JMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitbull63 Posted January 27, 2012 Author Share Posted January 27, 2012 Its a keeper for certain so I,m thinking about ditching the carb if I can,t get it set-up. Was going to go back to the original Zenith one but I,m interested in why the SU would be better. Can you tell me any more please mate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 the su is a variable venturi, and jet carb so it gives are far more efficient fuel to air mix , as the fuel flow is metered by a tapered needle . the other landy carbs are fixed jet and you get a more stepped mixture . landy carbs also suffer from other probs like gasket failure , and accelerator pump failure, not to mention warping in some models . Su is next best thing to fuel injection , once set stay in tune for long periods HTSH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 this will give you a bit more info http://www.automotivecomp.com/landrover_perf.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitbull63 Posted January 27, 2012 Author Share Posted January 27, 2012 Thats some interesting stuff in there ,cheers mate. But at the moment due to things being a little tight I,m going to have to stick to either a standard carb or another Weber. Its definately something I,ll look into in the near future though as the idea of an SU and pancake type filter does really tick the right boxes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitbull63 Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Took the bull by the horns and stripped the carb today.Cleaned it all,reassembled and found that the throttle bars had previously been wrongly put together at the carb end. Also resealed the exhaust at the manifold and took the old girl a run.Quieter,picks up quicker and is more responsive . Got to buy a new exhaust manifold as one stud is snapped and wouldn,t budge but all in all I,m happier with the outcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Drill out the manifold and fit a new stud, much much cheaper than a new manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitbull63 Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Would do mate but at this moment in time I,m having to do all my mechanic-ing at the side of a main A road so its not quite as easy as I,d like it to be.I also found that one of the studs has been drilled right through the manifold and a nut/bolt been put in there the head of the bolt sitting inside the manifold then a thin nut holding that tight before the flange bolts up. So I reckon I,ll be trawling e-bay in the near future Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 It could be a weak mixture, but I suspect your ignition timing is the problem. The manual figures don't apply to unleaded fuel, so you have to set the timing by ear. With the engine idling, turn the distributor one way and the other to find the position which gives the highest idle speed and tighten the clamp, then readjust the carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 It could be a weak mixture, but I suspect your ignition timing is the problem. The manual figures don't apply to unleaded fuel, so you have to set the timing by ear. With the engine idling, turn the distributor one way and the other to find the position which gives the highest idle speed and tighten the clamp, then readjust the carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitbull63 Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 OK Snagger I,ll give that one a go on Wednesday.Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mary Y Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Hi, I have a land rover series 2 TDS. The problem is that the car starts rough and then when you drive 500 years down the road the car just cuts out. No warning lights and it would start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 2 hours ago, Mary Y said: Hi, I have a land rover series 2 TDS. The problem is that the car starts rough and then when you drive 500 years down the road the car just cuts out. No warning lights and it would start. What's a "series 2 TDS" - do you mean an actual ~1960's Series or do you mean a Discovery 2 TD5 which is a very different thing and has its own sub-forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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