joe sharpe Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 hi i have just fitted a set of britpart front wheel bearings to take up the movement of moving wheel top and bottom problem is it seems to have more movement than there was with old ones ? are britpart bearings really that bad or could it be something else ?? since mot is quickly aproaching i need to sort out cheers joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danebrewer Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 sorry, britpart really is that bad. some stuff is OK, but the vast majority is cheap carp. if it's structural or mechanical, steer well away from S**tpart unless it's something you can easily replace with little hassle, I thought I'd same some money with some britpart (BP) Railko buskes for my swivels (£7 vs £24 each), bush inner is no where near as smooth as the geniune unes, and they were completely the wrong size, couldn't get them in for love nor money. got some genuine ones allong with some genuine swivel balls, and with the help of a press went straight in. When you buy geniune/good quality aftermarket, you can just forget about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Might the movement be the swivel pins/bearings anyway? Timken wheel bearings are cheap enough in my mind not to bother trying anything else, that and corteco seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tetsu0san Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 I suppose the only good thing about Britpart is that you learn how stuff comes apart so when you have to do it again the job doesn't take as long... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 'Britpart wheel bearings' Lol! pmsl, rofl. etc, etc Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Don't know what you are talking about Gent's. I fitted a Britpart track rod end on Saturday (couldn't get anything else) & it hasn't fallen off yet. Mind you, I've not driven the truck yet ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Strangely Britpart CV's seem to be ok....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tetsu0san Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Britpart boxes seem to be OK too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Britpart bearings aren't that bad, I've run them for years without any problems but mentioning Britpart on this forum is never a good idea because just about any query you raise will get swamped by a kind of smug hate. At the end of the day it's a taper bearing so pretty much any bearing can be tightened up enough to take out all the movement when it's new (assuming it's the correct bearing of course !) regardless of the box it came in. If you've still got movement AND you've tightened the bearing up then the problem is most likely elsewhere. If you can, get an assistant to stand on the brake pedal while you check for movement. If the play goes away when they stand on the brakes then it's the wheel bearings, if not then it's not the wheel bearings. Top and bottom movement can be caused by the swivel bearings. You can normally feel if it's that by placing a finger against the edge of the swivel seal and the ball but the brake pedal method is easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tetsu0san Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 There are bad experiences and good experiences with Britpart and of course you are only really going to hear about the bad ones, but the bad ones just keep coming thick and fast. There never really seem to be bad stories told about any of the other 3rd party suppliers. There must be a reason for that. But you soon learn that the cost of parts can be representative of the quality and with Britpart you pay your money and take your chance, as you do with the other makes but the little blue box seems to still be at the top of the list of parts that just don't make the cut. Their 'G' stuff seems to be OK but I don't think they make it themselves. G meaning OEM meaning better quality. But in my experience the non 'G' stuff only has a pretty box that you can put the parts back in to throw away. I have bought Britpart stuff in the past and I would say that 90% of it is just a waste of time and money. The 10% is just OK, as OK means that it does the job and hasn't broken. But it was a good point made about the brakes being on while checking the movement. Never thought of that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe sharpe Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 i think i have opened a can of worms here but cheers for the advice joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Sometimes they're good, sometimes they're bad, the problem is there is no way to tell until you open the box and personally I'd rather not play the Russian roulette game to save a few quid. With most other brands you have a reasonable idea what quality will be in the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrKev Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 At the end of the day it's a taper bearing so pretty much any bearing can be tightened up enough to take out all the movement when it's new (assuming it's the correct bearing of course !) regardless of the box it came in. If you've still got movement AND you've tightened the bearing up then the problem is most likely elsewhere. Only true if it's round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrKev Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Their 'G' stuff seems to be OK but I don't think they make it themselves. G meaning OEM meaning better quality. But in my experience the non 'G' stuff only has a pretty box that you can put the parts back in to throw away. I can't trust the G stuff either - the logic is simple. 1) The non-'G' stuff is supposedly and equivalent part, yet proven to be inferior. 2) Therefore despite attempting to sell a pattern part, they've clearly got one or more key parameter wrong. 3) A packet with a 'G' on it requires the contents to be made to drawing. 4) If number 2 is true, how can we be sure number 3 is being carried out correctly. Pretty easy to put the wrong sticker on, for example.. Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niamh Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 "G" stuff is made by an identifiable 3rd party such as Timkin... Niamh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 What is it with this forum and "he who cannot be named". Someone asks a technical question about wheel bearings and gets 14 replies of which 12 have absolutely no relevance to the question. It's like watching Life of Brian.. "Nobody gets stoned until I say so even, and I want to make this absolutely clear, even if they do say Britpart". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 I would have to agree that it would take a monumental effort to make a wheel bearing so badly that it would have more play than the one you took out, my concerns would be over how long they lasted and whether they actually fitted in the hub or on the stub axle in the first place.... oh and maybe tight spots when rotating the wheel. The question as asked was are britpart bearings that bad as to have worse play than a knackered set? ...... I doubt it. The other part was could it be anything else? ..... yep, swivel pins/bearings or wheel bearing adjustment. However the topic of Britpart quality was raised as part of the OP's question and it would be hard to deny that some of their output was of variable quality. That said I am running one of their CV's and it's been fine for over 10,000 miles so I have no problem recommending them for a day to day vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Like Dave W says, a taper bearing can be adjusted up until all slack has gone - eve to the extent that it's been overtightened. So, if new bearings have been installed and they have been tightened sufficiently the movement is coming from elsewhere. As mentioned above, worn king pins and bushes can produce up and down slack too. That is where I'd look next. Jack a wheel up (preferably with a sturdy trolley jack), so it just clears the ground. Using a shovel under the wheel, get an assistant to gently lever the wheel up and down while you have a look for movement in the swivel area. Usual warnings about safety, chock wheels etc apply. If movement is visible the swivel pins are loose, and can sometimes be adjusted up, depending on extent of wear. On the bearing quality front - <confession> I once bought BP bearings </confession> from Paddocks - when I opened the packet I was amazed to find they were full of swarf!!!!!!! The guys at paddocks didn't believe me until I emailed them some photos. They replaced the bearings without arguement, I requested and paid the extra to have Timken parts this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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