What to replace for upcoming 1 year overland trip (can of worms!)

[Sirocco]

Ok, big can of worms, yes its very subjective.

As a bit of background the vehicle is a 1996 300tdi 90 on 109k.

We are leaving next year and driving to Siberia and then onto Aus (hopefully not returning to the UK!). We are going to cover some 15-20,000miles in the 11 months we will be on the road.

So, vehicle background. I am confident of the vehicle overall, it has never let me down, regularly serviced and well looked after. Within the last 3 years (from 86k) it has had a new radiator and all pipework, new front propshaft, all wheel bearings, tires. more recently all bushes, a Frame joint, front disks/pads and before we go all new springs/shocks, rear disks/pads, timing belt. Other little things have been done also but its the bigger things that concern me.

The reason for this post is I am unsure when I should be looking at things like clutch/gearbox/engine/injector pump/caliper rebuilds/injector refurb etc.

we will be taking plenty of spares and will be well prepared so most things dont concern me other than the above items!

Can anyone give me a guide on what mileage I should be looking at these things?

Yes I know I could do everything/do nothing and go but I will weigh this up and prioritise when I have a little info.

Money is tight also but if it needs doing it needs doing I dont want to be swapping out an R380 on a logging road in Yakutsk (I laugh now...).

any help and/or suggestions appreciated

Cheers,

G

[Guest]

Gareth,

As you say you could spend years replacing everything only to be in the same situation if a bit you replace it with isn't fitted correctly or is a poor replacement.

But here is my feeling. I know that it is an emotive subject and there are people that have driven around the world with nothing but some spare elastic bands but that is them.

Brakes take a service kit and a few packs of seals, if the pistons are worn now change them now, check the condition of your pipes and hoses if in doubt change them now.

Clutch is always a challenge, It's a big job for a bush mechanic if it goes wrong, but when is it going to go, how was your truck driven? how has the clutch worn, how will it cope with the weight and trailer? etc, etc. Personally and again I know I will be shot down for this but I would change it before you go, your plans will take you to pretty remote places and although you can take a spare, also change to a HD clutch fork and change the Slave and Master if they have not been done for a while.

With the gearbox you know how it drives, if you are happy with it and service it well then you shouldn't have an issue just keep and eye on it, you can also fit an x-plug to catch any metal and spot issues before they happen.

Same with the engine, how is it? Has the oil been changed regularly? A well serviced engine will go for ever, a trashed one will struggle, again you are the best judge of this.

One thing I would look at is easy items that are often overlooked like the starter motor and the alternator, you can give these a service replace the bushes and check out any ware preventing issues before they happen as with most things is the best approach.

Jason.

[Sirocco]

Jason - That is basically my thinking.

Clutch slave and master have been done, forgot to mention it. I have a new 100a alt to go in and a 100a alt to take as a spare. Clutch I was thinking of replacing, engine seems very strong, gearbox gets a little rattle in 4th under load but otherwise very good.

I was just wondering if there were any mileage intervals 'normal' land rovers need things looking at.

Thanks for your input.

G

[Off Road Toad]

Gareth, I'm in agreement with Jason. I really would change the clutch before you go and definitely the release fork for a HD one (easy to do your own). Pete (mutual friend for others info) drove all the way to SA with an Lt77 that wouldn't go into 2nd gear! We discovered this like the day before he was due to set off and it's still working 2 years later and done further trips back up to Botswana! Regards, Steve

[Sirocco]

Gareth, I'm in agreement with Jason. I really would change the clutch before you go and definitely the release fork for a HD one (easy to do your own). Pete (mutual friend for others info) drove all the way to SA with an Lt77 that wouldn't go into 2nd gear! We discovered this like the day before he was due to set off and it's still working 2 years later and done further trips back up to Botswana! Regards, Steve

He didn't tell me that

Clutch is deff on the list now then. Thanks guys. any thoughts on injector servicing etc?

[Guest]

Jason - That is basically my thinking.

Clutch slave and master have been done, forgot to mention it. I have a new 100a alt to go in and a 100a alt to take as a spare. Clutch I was thinking of replacing, engine seems very strong, gearbox gets a little rattle in 4th under load but otherwise very good.

I was just wondering if there were any mileage intervals 'normal' land rovers need things looking at.

Thanks for your input.

G

I think given the age of your Land Rover all 'normal intervals' have been passed and it very much depends on how the truck has been treated during it's life, heavy towing, poor fuel, servicing? Most of this is a gut feel and only you will know this as you say you know your truck really well so go with your inner feelings.

As for the injectors, do you think they need servicing? If the truck has spent most of it's 100k in the UK on good clean fuel then there shouldn't be an issue, so some fuel additive/cleaner may be the only thing they require.

Jason.

[Sirocco]

As for the injectors, do you think they need servicing? If the truck has spent most of it's 100k in the UK on good clean fuel then there shouldn't be an issue, so some fuel additive/cleaner may be the only thing they require.

Jason.

Ok, its things like that I needed to know cheers.

It was originally owned by a women to take her dogs for walks, (I have the original receipt of purchase) that was from 1996 to about 2002 with full dealer service history, it then passed through 3 other people who did not put much mileage on it, then I picked it up in 2008. I fully believe its had an easy life hence why I snapped it up at the time.

This is only the 2nd vehicle I have owned so I have no experience with vehicle longevity etc.

Im just trying to mitigate now what can be avoided in the near future. when we relocate in Aus I cannot imagine anything Land Rover is going to be cheap either, so better now than in 2 years time!

G

[Guest]

Gareth,

I know this sounds strange but you may also want to get someone else to drive it, clearly not some random but maybe someone from here that lives near you and is used to driving a truck the same as yours.

I know it may sound strange but sometimes issues grow and you just get used to them where someone gets in and says oh mine does not do that!! Or that should be tighter better different.

Jason.

[mmgemini]

I carry too much. I do carry a full clutch....There is a list of spares I carried if you'd like me to find it and post it up ?

As long as the vehicle is serviced and looked after you shouldn't have a problem. However saying that on our last trip we had two unforseen problems. The turbo blew it's seals. We got that changed in the destert in Namibia the same day.

The second was the worst. No oil pressure. The oil pump packed up.Both on a vehicle that I didn't expect any problems.

[Sirocco]

I carry too much. I do carry a full clutch....There is a list of spares I carried if you'd like me to find it and post it up ?

As long as the vehicle is serviced and looked after you shouldn't have a problem. However saying that on our last trip we had two unforseen problems. The turbo blew it's seals. We got that changed in the destert in Namibia the same day.

The second was the worst. No oil pressure. The oil pump packed up.Both on a vehicle that I didn't expect any problems.

I understand what your saying Mike, you can only do so much.

Im not going into that much detail or carrying a spare turbo! I just want to make sure the big stuff is tip top before we set off.

G

[mmgemini]

Woops. Lost last post....

No I certainly didn't carry a turbo. Johan Strouse at Keetmanshoop had one on the shelf. Better than a dealership here ?

[GBMUD]

I would personally not set out to replace anything much unless it needed doing. That said, I would (and have in prep for a short trip to Spain and back next week!) be keen to inspect everything 'mission critical' very closely. If there is nothing wrong then NOT changing stuff means that you are not introducing unreliability in the form of potentially suspect parts or labour.

Concentrate on things that are a show stopper - and on that basis I suppose that a new clutch might be considered advisable. If you need to borrow a crane, let me know. I had to make a distress purchase a while back and now it sits idle which seems a waste.

If your current alternator is OK then why change it? Are you fitting a brand named one? You could just check for play/noise in the bearings and that there is plenty of brush left and leave it at that - about a 20 minute job on a 300Tdi as I have found out this week. Save £150 in one go there!

Check the water pump for play. If the bearings are shot (wobbly pulley!) you need to replace it before you go.

Check that the PAS pump bearings are good. You can drive without it but your shoulder muscles will get very big very fast and the single belt will no longer go round so you will get no alternator, water pump, fan etc.

Check the bearings in the fan pulley/timing cover are good. Replace if there is any play.

Change the cam belt for a genuine or Dayco one and change the idler/tensioner too. Also change the front oil seal and front cover dust seal. Pack a rear oil seal as spare, I would not interfere with one which is working but for a few quid and 100g or so it may be a God-send.

Being hyper cautious, change the lift pump but if you are taking a spare anyway don't bother. Not much goes wrong with the injector pump or injectors, at least not catastrophically and you will likely make it to a garage.

Good brake discs and new pads before you go. When fitting, make a close inspection of the pistons and if they are A1 they will last the course. I cannot think that I have ever known a calliper fail other than at brake pad change OR following a long lay-up period. Worth packing a set of rubbers though, and a small ball bearing that can be used to isolate any given brake calliper from the rest of the system should it be essential. (you fit it in a brake union and it blocks the pipe!)

While the brakes are in bits, remove the hubs and ensure all wheel bearings are well greased and the seals AND the bit of the stub axle that the seal runs on are in good order. I would change the seals for genuine at this point, cheap and very prophylactic. While the hubs are off, look carefully at the outer CV and inner halfshaft splines (300Tdi has integral flanges on the rear so no outer splines).

As long as all propshaft UJs are good (it may be best to remove shafts to check) then I would grease them, pack some HS or genuine spares and be happy with that. Check also transfer box output and diff input bearings. There is almost always some play in the front output shaft but as long as it does not leak oil then that is normal. I would pack spare seals for output/inputs but unless leaking not disturb.

Look carefully for any play in the steering column UJs and bearings. Both will continue to work long after they are knackered but will make driving a lot less pleasant.

Fit LHD headlamps before you go!

If the engine, gearbox and transfer box sound and 'feel' OK before you go then you will probably still have them when you get there.

Change all fluids and do a full service. Get someone you trust (ideally a qualified mechanic working on a lift) to make a critical inspection before you go - he should do an MOT type inspection but include many more items and be hyper critical. This will check your work and a second set of eyes/hands might find something you missed.

20000 miles is actually not that far for a car and you should not expect anything to go wrong - but that said, and as Mike experienced, expect the unexpected! Plenty of people would do that sort of miles in a few months, admittedly not in an older car mind, but how many breakdowns have you had in the last 20000 miles? Rough roads can make things wear out faster but you will be taking spare bushes with you I assume. I believe you have fitted polyurethane bushes, so when you have used them (and I know you will!) be sure to replace your spare ones. ...actually, that goes for all spares you take/use!

Please keep good notes, I might follow you in a few years time...

There you go, a set of tools, a few spare parts, an iPod and a spare pair of pants and you are away!

Chris

[Albania4X4]

You may wont to use different lubrificants, than you use in England. I live in a country where it gets as high as 45°C in summer, but in the mountains it drops to -15°C in winter, so I am forced to use high tech oil, as in extreme temperature differences, the oil viscosity (of the cheap stuff) changes and it's performance drops. I use Liqui Moly in my 200tdi and i'm very happy with it. If you use good quality oil, your gearbox (and anything else) should run fine.

You will need to take lots of oil with you, especially engine oil. Depending on diesel quality you will have to change engine oil more often. I do mine every 5000Km, but then again, i run it on every possible carp i can find. I always forget my Jerry Can

Get good filters. If you have a snorkel, get 2 spare air filters,if not take 3. Forget K&N, they will kill your engine. Take spare oil filters and anything you need to fit them.

Diesel quality isn't the best where you intend to go, so it's a good idea to upgrade the fuel filter.

I use an UFI filter built for mining trucks, which is used by the army Defenders here in Albania. It's a straight fit, just a lot bigger. It will filter better and longer, and will keep your engine working fine. Search for something like that, but if you can't find it take more spare diesel filters.

[tacr2man]

The gearbox is a major pain if it goes so if its orginal at 100000 + and with a rattle i would get it rebuilt, and then run it on Redline synthetic . You could do the clutch o/haul upgrade at the same time . JMHO

[Sirocco]

I know this sounds strange but you may also want to get someone else to drive it, clearly not some random but maybe someone from here that lives near you and is used to driving a truck the same as yours.

Jason.

I know what your saying Jason, I have 2-3 people here in Bristol I can call on, keep meaning to do this.

If your current alternator is OK then why change it? Are you fitting a brand named one? You could just check for play/noise in the bearings and that there is plenty of brush left and leave it at that - about a 20 minute job on a 300Tdi as I have found out this week. Save £150 in one go there!

I got 2 2nd hand 100a, not Denso but they seem 'ok' need to fit soon to test and check brushes on all.

Check the water pump for play. If the bearings are shot (wobbly pulley!) you need to replace it before you go.

need to check

Check that the PAS pump bearings are good. You can drive without it but your shoulder muscles will get very big very fast and the single belt will no longer go round so you will get no alternator, water pump, fan etc.

Check the bearings in the fan pulley/timing cover are good. Replace if there is any play.

check all pulleys cheers

Change the cam belt for a genuine or Dayco one and change the idler/tensioner too. Also change the front oil seal and front cover dust seal. Pack a rear oil seal as spare, I would not interfere with one which is working but for a few quid and 100g or so it may be a God-send.

Doing this soon anyway.

Being hyper cautious, change the lift pump but if you are taking a spare anyway don't bother. Not much goes wrong with the injector pump or injectors, at least not catastrophically and you will likely make it to a garage.

Excellent, thanks.

Good brake discs and new pads before you go. When fitting, make a close inspection of the pistons and if they are A1 they will last the course. I cannot think that I have ever known a calliper fail other than at brake pad change OR following a long lay-up period. Worth packing a set of rubbers though, and a small ball bearing that can be used to isolate any given brake calliper from the rest of the system should it be essential. (you fit it in a brake union and it blocks the pipe!)

While the brakes are in bits, remove the hubs and ensure all wheel bearings are well greased and the seals AND the bit of the stub axle that the seal runs on are in good order. I would change the seals for genuine at this point, cheap and very prophylactic. While the hubs are off, look carefully at the outer CV and inner halfshaft splines (300Tdi has integral flanges on the rear so no outer splines).

Checked, all good.

As long as all propshaft UJs are good (it may be best to remove shafts to check) then I would grease them, pack some HS or genuine spares and be happy with that. Check also transfer box output and diff input bearings. There is almost always some play in the front output shaft but as long as it does not leak oil then that is normal. I would pack spare seals for output/inputs but unless leaking not disturb.

I carry these everywhere anyway along with wheel bearings

Look carefully for any play in the steering column UJs and bearings. Both will continue to work long after they are knackered but will make driving a lot less pleasant.

Yes i think these need looking at

Fit LHD headlamps before you go!

Not bothering wont need when we get to Aus and will use those sticky things when needed but will try to get away without.

If the engine, gearbox and transfer box sound and 'feel' OK before you go then you will probably still have them when you get there.

Change all fluids and do a full service. Get someone you trust (ideally a qualified mechanic working on a lift) to make a critical inspection before you go - he should do an MOT type inspection but include many more items and be hyper critical. This will check your work and a second set of eyes/hands might find something you missed.

will be doing this anyway.

20000 miles is actually not that far for a car and you should not expect anything to go wrong - but that said, and as Mike experienced, expect the unexpected! Plenty of people would do that sort of miles in a few months, admittedly not in an older car mind, but how many breakdowns have you had in the last 20000 miles? Rough roads can make things wear out faster but you will be taking spare bushes with you I assume. I believe you have fitted polyurethane bushes, so when you have used them (and I know you will!) be sure to replace your spare ones. ...actually, that goes for all spares you take/use!

Should I take a full set of spare bushes? or is it worth just hacing them shipped out if/when required?

Please keep good notes, I might follow you in a few years time...

will do, dont worry

Chris

The gearbox is a major pain if it goes so if its orginal at 100000 + and with a rattle i would get it rebuilt, and then run it on Redline synthetic . You could do the clutch o/haul upgrade at the same time . JMHO

bummer. I was hoping no-one would mention this

any insight into what my '4th' rattle may be? and whats it going to cost assuming im driving into a garage and not dropping it myself.

G

Thanks for all the replies, very usfull insights as always.

[Eightpot]

You'll probably find you can do the whole trip if you're careful as it is and it will be fine.

If you've got a few niggles in the back of your mind though (clutch/gearbox ) you may as well sort them here as you won't find anywhere else in the world cheaper or easier. bearing in mind the overall cost of your trip, and it may be the only one you ever get to do, it's bad economy to spend half of it under a Land Rover, spending a lot of time worrying about that noise (which you will spend a lot of time doing ), trying to find spares or arranging for parts to be shipped out.

From my own experience nursing elderly Land Rovers round Africa and Europe, the things tend to keep trundling on with clunky, noisy, banging gearboxes and engines for a considerable time - the only stuff that has ever ground me to a halt has been bust wheel bearings, bust UJ joints, failed brake caliper seals, damaged brake hose, idler bearing on power steering failing, failed alternators, having more punctures than tyres, overheating due to bust electric or viscous fans, exhaust pipe wrapping round back axle. Electrical problems like brake lamp switches failing, earth problems, small fires, big fires, nothing working or everything working all at once.

Tyres can be real expensive overseas, so if yours aren't 100% tip top, with loads of tread, consider changing them here. Take a couple of tubes with you, some proper tyre repair patches and some emergency sticky plugs.

I'd change your bushes for standard new rubber ones if there is any play in them especially the pressed in ones - only reason being that they do help with tightening up the handling, and it makes a difference to a loaded up car on rough roads where you tend to swerve about a lot, and again it's easier to do it at home. Take spare rear radius arm to axle bushes, panhard rod bushes and shock bushes and that should do you.

I always pack a spare alternator, and it's paid of on most trips. heavy but it's always been worth it for the convenience.

Great trip you've got planned there, sounds like you're going to have a blast !

[Sirocco]

thanks for everyone's input on this.

Can anyone recommend a good mechanic familiar with 300tdi in the Bristol/Bath/Somerset area?

I want to get the clutch and timing belt done soon and just had a quote from Steve Hill who I have used in the past.

Cheers,

G

[specialbikejames]

LR Services if you trust them...

[FridgeFreezer]

Things generally fall into a few categories:

- Not mission critical (fluffy dice, stereo, air con, etc.)

- Bodgeable by the side of the road without special parts

- Fixable if you have the parts (wheel bearing, water pump, UJ)

- Things that would be a royal pain in the backside &/or wallet if they went wrong in the middle of nowhere (clutch, gearbox, diff)

Unless it's been done in recent memory I'd do the clutch before leaving. It's all too easy to end up carrying 1/2 a ton of spares you'll probably never use which use up carrying capacity and give the vehicle a harder time all round.

[Sirocco]

LR Services if you trust them...

Not sure I do!