mcc1979ian Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 hi, im currently rebuilding my 1985 90 but its on a go slow. im finally mounting the body but could really do wi some advice on how to line it all up and where to start (front or back)?? please be gentle im just a newcomer here. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 start with the bulkhead, rear body & doors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcc1979ian Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 cheers, would you mount the bulkhead using the large bolts through the outrigger first or try and mount it to the brackets up front and then try and manouver it in place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 I'd suggest that you get the rear tub mounted first - if you think about it, the rear tub can only go where the crossmember puts it, but the bulkhead can be moved forward and back with judicious use of washers. So, get the rear tub in place, trial fit the bulkhead & doors. slip in washers until you are happy with the gap between the doors and rear tub -bearing in mind you can move the doors relative to the bulkhead a little bit. The rest is easy, assuming you have the help of a few mates to lift the roof! Best of luck and have fun (oh and if you've painted the rear tub, place a sheet of tough plastic between the tub and the crossmember mounts as otherwise the paint will get whacked as you manoeuvre the tub in place!). G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 cheers, would you mount the bulkhead using the large bolts through the outrigger first or try and mount it to the brackets up front and then try and manouver it in place? fix with the proper bolts through outriggers, then it cannot fall on you or a assistant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 I put the rear tub on and with all bolts loose, bulkhead next and again all bolts loose. Put some protection around the tub and fitted the doors, you will need help at this point as its a bit of a struggle to get things to line up. Bulkhead square the chassis & door gaps. You can pack bulkhead to outrigger to get some movement and you can get the rear tub to move forward but not back. I would advise spending some time on this or your doors will not seal. Saying that you will probably need to redo it when the roof goes on. It takes time but needs doing correctly for a good end result. Have fun and dont get to frustrated as I did but I did persist with it. Regards Frax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Alternatively, if you don't want to fit the doors, cut two bits of wood per side that are say 10mm longer than the door panel (10mm for a 5mm door gap) and use those to position the rest of the bodywork. That way you don't have to have the heavy doors flapping about all over the place! It's also worth noting that if you have a later Td5 rear crossmember you'll have an adjustable rear tub mounting rail. On these the tabs go behind the rear tub skin, and it's position on top of the rear crossmember is variable, giving you more flexibility in tub position with relation to the bulkhead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcc1979ian Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 ok thanks will give it a bash again tommorrow and see how it goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 It's also worth noting that if you have a later Td5 rear crossmember you'll have an adjustable rear tub mounting rail. On these the tabs go behind the rear tub skin, Now thats a useful bit of info thanks, just about to fit my rear tub and I had assumed it would be possible to fit the tabs in the "normal" position. I can't check from here but are the slots in the top of the x-member not long enough to allow that? (sorry to hijack the thread if the OP has the normal x-member) Regards Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 When I say behind, I mean behind the aluminium skin when looking at it from the back of the vehicle. So actually in front of the tub skin if you're talking about relevant positioning within the vehicle. A better way of saying it would be that the tabs are visible standing behind the car on earlier vehicles, whereas they are hidden on the later ones! The slots allow a good range of movement, whether that's enough for what you want to do I don't know I'm afraid. Probably depends on the shape and size of your particular chassis and body panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Yep, I understand .. "normal" meaning for a vehicle of this vintage with the tabs visible from behind the vehicle. Will have to look into that as sometimes the old tub gets a bit scabby round the mounts and the tab covers that up. (I put an alluminium spreader behind it) Anyway a good heads up and another thing to look for. Regards Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickwilliams Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 My Marsland's 300TDI galv'd chassis has the adjustable rear mounting rail as well. Nick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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