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land rover 200 tdi 1993 shakes when driving at 50-60mph


daz200dti

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HI ALL I HAVE A 1993 DISCO 200TDI WHEN I DRIVE IT AT 50-60 THE STEERING SHAKES AND THEN THE WHOLE MOTOR SHAKES AS IF THE TRACKING OR WHEEL BALANCE BUT HAD ALL THIS DONE AND NEW STEERING DAMPER REMOVE THE PROPSHAFT STRIP AXLE ENDS RESET BEARINGS NEW SHOCK ABSORBERS CHECK ALL BUSHES OVER £800 OF WORK AND EVEN A NEW MOT TO SEE IF THEY COULD PICK OWT UP THAT COULD BE MAKING IT DO THIS AND IT PAST WITH JUST 1 ADVISORY OFFSIDE WHEEL BEARING SLIGHT PLAY BUT STILL SHAKES THE MOT GUY SAID THAT THE BUSHES ON THE REAR OFFSIDE SHOCKABSORBER HAVE GONE CAN SOME 1 HELP WITH THIS AS IM JUST PAYING OUT AND GETTING NO WHERE IM IN LEICESTER

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have you checked both propshafts? not only the UJ's but the splined sliding joint too for play.

also check what your tyres are like for roundness as BM says.

can you feel it through the steering wheel too, as it could narrow it down to the front (or not the front)

also can you feel it through the brake pedal, does the pedal travel more than it used to before properly biting?

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Welcome to the forum, you look like a CAPITAL fella...

Have you had your wheels re-balanced recently? - It takes a bit to knock the tracking on these vehicle, how do your ssteering arm, tracke rod end ball joints look like any play?

Mav

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Have you also looked at the swivel pre-load? This wouldn't be picked up in any of the above or by the MOT but could be a cause. Does it become unsettled when you hit a pot hole?

Ta

I have same issue (at 65mph). Just done 1 of my swivel balls... set pre load to 1.3kgs (within spec). Think I'll be removing some shims!

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it would be picked up by the MOT, as when they do the wheelbearing check they would feel it. and put it down probably as an advisory

But would you not be fighting against the steering damper and box at this point in which case there would be resistence their anyway so as to not reveal if the pre-load was insufficent.

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hi all thanks for the replys

when i drive if i hit a bump in the road i can feel the steering wheel start to go but as soon as i hit 50-60 mph and hit a bump thats when the steering gose then the hole car shakes like mad i have to slow right down to 20mph then it stops iv had the balancing done and thats fine and 2 new tyres and had the alloys cheked if i drive it on a nice smooth road then it dosnt do it. i have now fount a land rover/range rover specialist swinfield - cooper ltd garage in leicester and they have said to ajust the frount wheel bearings and fit new rear shocks (£17.50each + vat) and to see why it has this stupid problem they will need it in for 5 hours i think they said at £49 per our.

and now its got to the point that im just fed up with spending on it and its still no better. even the misses is saying scrap it i just tell her to take her tablets for her wobbly gob cindrome lol :i-m_so_happy: what do i do :(

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But would you not be fighting against the steering damper and box at this point in which case there would be resistence their anyway so as to not reveal if the pre-load was insufficent.

if you jack it up, put it on a stand, and grab the tyre 12 oclock and 6 oclock and wobble it, if the swivel is loose you will feel it. the way to tell it apart from a wheelbearing (which will also show play like that) is that a loose wheelbearing will wobble if you grab the tyre at 3 and 6 oclock too. whereas a swivel wont.

the joints and damper wont affect that test. but youre thinking about when you take the linkages off, and use a newton meter to measure the resistance.

if that makes sense to you.

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if you jack it up, put it on a stand, and grab the tyre 12 oclock and 6 oclock and wobble it, if the swivel is loose you will feel it. the way to tell it apart from a wheelbearing (which will also show play like that) is that a loose wheelbearing will wobble if you grab the tyre at 3 and 6 oclock too. whereas a swivel wont.

the joints and damper wont affect that test. but youre thinking about when you take the linkages off, and use a newton meter to measure the resistance.

if that makes sense to you.

Right I get you, learn a new trick everyday there :)

AXLECHORUS

did it solve your problem thanks

No, I found that changing to BFG MTs seemed to solve things. I still get a wobble on large pot holes but nothing that I am too concerned about to go delving in there before I need to renew the swivels anyway which is fairly soon.

You wobble you describe sounds more like a slightly loose panhard rod in that you need to slow down. Unfortunately there is a lot of links in discoveries that could all cause problems. Is there perhaps a club member of some club near you who could offer an hour of poking around to try and track down a likely culprit?

Ta

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hi all

if it was a little shake i could put up with it but its quite scarey for how bad this is when it starts it just takes over the motor.

when your in a car and the tracking is out the steering wheel shakes times that by 15 thats how bad the steering wheel gets and the body just shakes so bad im amazed the body has'nt fell off its that bad. and now just to top things off the clutch slave cilinder has packed up :angry2:

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do this;

"if you jack it up, put it on a stand, and grab the tyre 12 oclock and 6 oclock and wobble it, if the swivel is loose you will feel it. the way to tell it apart from a wheelbearing (which will also show play like that) is that a loose wheelbearing will wobble if you grab the tyre at 3 and 6 oclock too. whereas a swivel wont.

the joints and damper wont affect that test. but youre thinking about when you take the linkages off, and use a newton meter to measure the resistance.

if that makes sense to you. "

come back when you have. it'll most likely be your swivel preloads. Buy a fishing spring balance and Haynes manual and go get oily. Dont spend anymore money on it, you'll either be welding it or scrapping it by the next MOT

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The nice thing about adjusting swivel preloads is that it involves taking things out (shims) rather than having to buy things and put them in. The only cost to you if you have a half-decent took kit is your time.

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yes thats the swivels, there are 2 ways to do it. proffesionally or by guess.

for an accurate reading you need to take the wheel off, then disconnect all steering links from the hubs, then feel the resistiance. i was once told that it the resistance should feel similar to the weight of a 2lb bag of sugar.

or you could use the correct settings from the haynes manual, and a newton meter. (the ideal setting for this is minus resistance seal, ((but thats brand new seal when youre setting up a new hub settings)))

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