Boris113 Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 I picked up some X-springs from the for sale section on here a little while ago and it's getting to the stage in the rebuild where I would like to fit them to the 90. So far they are bolted inside the main springs, but have not got the 'hats' on yet. My main concern was how to get the vehicle high enough whilst ensuring that it is not too unstable to work on. I helped a mate fit some a while ago using a roof-mounted tackle block and hi-lift but I don't have a tall structural point in the roof and the forklift isn't working My kit extends to: - large trolley jack - very high axle stands - hi-lift jack - plenty of steel beer barrels/pallets to wedge underneath On another note, does it look like my Terrafirma springs are the correct way up? I remember reading somewhere that progressive springs should only be fitted one way up but can't remember which way that was! Cheers, Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 Hi, Here you go, fitting instructions for the X-springs off the X-Eng website. http://www.x-eng.co....ns/X-Spring.pdf I followed these and managed to fit them. Steve P.S. Nice cage mounts I see. Any chance of some pictures of the whole vehicle?......Build thread?.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 Cheers Steve, i didn't think to look there Thank you, it's a galv chassis from Richards with a few little mods also. I will be doing a build thread soon, this thread was the first time I've managed to work photobucket successfully, now I know how simple it is I'll get something sorted asap! Any ideas on the spring orientation? Cheers, Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 Cool! Looking forward to it. As regards to the spring I would say you have it the correct way as I've alway thought the close together coils were at the top, but don't quote me on it! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy V8 Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 just on another note.i'd change those rear trailing arms as there have been a few problems with there design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 Yup, unbolt them, right now.... if you want a full story, try a search. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 Thanks Steve, glad to know I got it right! Sadly I saw a few horror stories about the Tarantula trailing arms on Landyzone a little while ago, but I had already bought/fitted them a year before I'm keen to change them as a result of these threads, but not sure what to use. My plans for the 90 may have changed slightly (I will know for certain soon) and as a result it will be doing far fewer road miles, would X-arms be a good idea? I looked at rose joints but after speaking to a few people I found that they need changing after about 1,000 miles (and cost £50/side) I like the idea of the NOR extended arms but they require chassis welding, which I would prefer to avoid. Cheers, Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Chua Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 Yup the closer coils are at the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foggy3061 Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 Sadly I saw a few horror stories about the Tarantula trailing arms on Landyzone a little while ago, but I had already bought/fitted them a year before I'm keen to change them as a result of these threads, but not sure what to use. I'd go for some of the Gwyn Lewis rear trailing arms - extremely strong and very reasonable price (slightly cheaper if bought from his ebay shop)! http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/page6.html http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Heavy-Duty-Rear-Trailing-Arms-gwynlewis4x4-challenge-suspension-/180750255786?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a158e06aa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 That or the new style Terrafirma ones seem to take punishment quite well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted September 21, 2012 Author Share Posted September 21, 2012 Cheers guys, I have had some stuff from Gwyn before and it has always performed well so I'm very tempted by those. Would something like X-arms make a huge difference? I don't want to go as far as rose jointed A-frame yet so not sure whether I would get the full benefit from them... Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 So I went out into the shed and dug the X-spring seats out today and one of them looks to be bent somehow. It is still perfectly circular and sits flat on the ground but has a bit of a lean on, is this likely to cause a problem? I'm concerned it may somehow damage the inside of the main coil spring or distort the X-spring? Cheers, Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 I'm guessing it was not perfectly square in the press when it was formed. I shouldn't worry about it though - it won't make any difference operationally. If it offends your eye aesthetically, id be happy to replace it under warranty though. In addition to what it says in the instructions, a scissor jack between the axle & bump stop can be very helpful to overcome the stiffness in the radius arms at full droop. This may be enough on its own to locate the springs if you disconnect the shocks. Failing that, spring compressors work well. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 Thanks Si that is very kind of you but so long as they are functional I'm happy Cheers for the tips, I'll get them fitted tomorrow eve Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted October 2, 2012 Author Share Posted October 2, 2012 Right so on saturday I dragged the jacks out and had a go at fitting the X-springs. Followed the destructions that Steve found and used Si's idea of a jack between the chassis and axle (although in my case it was a bottle jack) It all went together nicely and took no longer than a couple of hours (including lots of tea breaks ) Slackening the trailing arm-chassis nut made a big difference, as did removing the shock absorber. I previously thought it was my A-frame ball joint that was the limiting factor in my suspension travel, it turns out that it's actually my +5 shocks! It's not a major issue though, with the shock removed the extended brake pipe flexi is too tight, the shock stops full downward travel and helps protect my brake hose. I might have to ring llama 4x4 and ask for a +4 or 5 inch rear pipe- in the meantime I have rotated the T-piece a little and bent it to face up towards the chassis more. At the moment the 90 is just a bare tub and running gear so there is very little weight on the back. Parked on the flat the x-springs have about 2 inches visible but once I get cappings, tailgate, towbar, roll bar etc back on, that should sit it down properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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