st1g Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 I have just finished a 200tdi conversion into my 110 the problem i have now is the engine seems to be running hot but the heater is cold and also the expansion tank stays cold . i have changed the water temp sensor for the apparently the right one ? could this be a problem with the water pump if so how do i check that it is working ?? and also i think the system is not pressurising . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Do you know what the engine was like before? I'd bet on a defective or non existent stat if you didn't know the vehicle before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 cold heaters caused by either a stuck stat or a heater matrix full of air, not water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st1g Posted October 31, 2012 Author Share Posted October 31, 2012 the truck it came out of had a very good heater i drove it to my workshop . i have just changed the thermostat today before that i put the one out of the old 19j engine , which was ok but the engine didnt get up to temp when driving slowly . i will check the matrix in the morning but what i do not understand is why the system is not pressurising ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Mine doesn't pressurise either, never has done since I got it. However the heater works really well after I put a new thermostat in it about 12 years ago! and works even better after throwing the huge fan away and fitting an electric one. However the heater was useless in my old 110 after changing the 19J for a brand new 200Tdi retrofit kit, no matter what I tried. Eventually fitted a Tdi heater matrix and it worked perfectly, but never did work out why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st1g Posted November 1, 2012 Author Share Posted November 1, 2012 thanks for that i will take the one off the discovery and fit that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Ok, seeing as you knew the vehicle before, my question is what brand of 'stat and are you sure its good (some new ones have been known to be stuck out of the box), and then on to bleeding of the matrix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Im betting on air in the matrix/ not enough coolant in the system! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st1g Posted November 5, 2012 Author Share Posted November 5, 2012 its a bearmach stat . and its still doing it ??? the heater is working well now i filled the matrix through the top pipe then topped up the system ,. i will have to find some where that sells a different make stat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st1g Posted November 8, 2012 Author Share Posted November 8, 2012 ok i have just changed the stat for a q&h one . the heater matrix is getting very warm as is the engine but now the radiator is stone cold , if i repeatedly squeeze the top hose i can get the hot water into the rad but it wont circulate on its on ??? is the water pump u/s or is the rad u/s . the only thing is when i drove the donor truck to my workshop the temp was ok and ive used the rad of that ????? also i have a 2 hundred mile round trip on Saturday so i have one day to sort this out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 can you see if the water pump shaft is turning inside the pulley adaptor, or maybe the shaft has sheared, pulley rotates but doesn't rotate the pump impeller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 The radiator SHOULD be cold until you reach normal operating temperature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Yes it sounds to me like you have fixed it. The rad should only start to get hot when the engine is up to temp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st1g Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 yes i know but its staying cold when the engine/temp gauge is hot ?? i took the heater feed pipe off with the engine going and there was a good flow so i be leave the water pump is working ok . so i think there must be a air lock in the rad ?? i flushed the rad out before i refitted it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 Hi, The 300Tdi rad appears to have a single horizontal baffle. Since both the filling plug and the outlet/drain hose are on the same side as the filling plug, to bleed air from the rad it appears necessary to only jack up the right hand wheel, so that air can escape from below the baffle to above, and then level the vehicle to vent via the filling cap. If you're getting hot water through both the heater supply and return hoses there should be no air lock in that section of the circuit. Assuming that your heater blower is working properly, if those hoses are both hot, then the problem is probably in the operation of the air flow dampers. Air is directed either through the heater matrix, for heating, or is directed to by-pass the heater matrix, for cooling. If you're getting hot water circulating through the heater matrix - both hoses hot - , but not getting hot air out of the cabin vents, the problem probably lies in the air flow dampers. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st1g Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 hi thanks for that . i think i should rename this thread to now its overheating lol the heater is working fine now but i can not stop the engine overheating now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 as the engine has come from a Discovery, did you change the temp gauge sender to a Defender version, if not your temp gauge will over read 7 make you think the engine is over heating, this is a well documented problem when fitting a Disco 200tdi to a pre Tdi 90/110. defender temp sender is 5/8 unf thread part PRC8593 http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/10017/2940/28/PRC8593-TEMPERATURE-TRANSMITTER.html But it won't screw into the Discovery thermostat housing because that uses a Metric thread, so either find a defender stat housing or a suitable sender & matching temp gauge [VDO for example] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st1g Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 i have done this and checked the engine temp with a raytemp infra red thermometer . i will have to try and flush the rad through again . the most annoying thing is a drove my mates truck yesterday which i changed the engine two months ago and it goes really well the temp gauge went up to half way and stayed there . i can not think of any thing i have done different on my truck to his ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 probably & hopefully just a air lock then, when I fill my 200tdi, I fill the rad first through the cap on rad until full then fit the cap & then top up through header tank to the correct level & run the engine with header tank cap off for arund 10 mins, always worked for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st1g Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 i will do that this morning and hopefully that will cure it . if not i have another engine here so that may have go in hahahahaha i think it would be quicker to do that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 Is it the right thermostat? There should be a little bleed hole on the thermostat that prevents air from getting stuck behind it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st1g Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 yesterday i flushed the rad through , checked the thermostat and fill the rad through the top plug . went for a drive no different ??? then changed the stat for the one out of the 19j engine which is a different design to the 200tdi one , went for a drive and no problems the rad was warm the heater was warmish but the gauge only went up to the first quarter mark . At least the one good thing is i found out my clutch master cylinder is leaking hahahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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