simonr Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 If it's stainless - why do you want to coat it at all? Any kind of coating (pretty much) is just going to wear off - so it might as well not be on there in the first place! I'm not convinced that mirror polishing is the way to go. I don't have a particularly objective explanation for this - only an empirical one. If you rub your finger over a smooth pane of glass, it encounters more friction than over a frosted one. The 'physics' behind this as far as I know are this. A perfectly smooth surface will have less friction than a rough surface. However, no surface is perfectly smooth. Microscopically, the two surfaces look like two gears running over one another. If the 'pitch' of the two 'gears' is similar, there will be a lot of friction as the 'teeth' mesh with one another. If they are different, they mesh less well and friction is reduced. The surface has irregularities at a molecular scale as well as at a crystalline scale and at the scale of the surface finish - all of which interact this way. For a low friction meeting of two surfaces, you want the pitch to be different at each scale - in fact you want them to be prime numbers so that one will not divide into the other exactly. A satin finish, like you achieve with bead-blasting, having a fairly random surface and thus the 'pitch' if the irregularities is random, is less likely to mesh with a smoother surface (like the individual fibers of rope). If the surface is too rough, it will start to interact with the fibers themselves - so there is a half-way point between perfectly smooth and rough where the surface friction will be at its minimum. So, for my money - I would go for a satin finish over a mirror polish. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted December 12, 2012 Author Share Posted December 12, 2012 Only the bit that nick made is stainless. I need to protect the rest from corrosion. Empirical; word of the day? Excellent input Si, more to think about! Maybe blasting followed by blacking , saves the effort of polishing as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 You could just paint the non-stainless bits? Chemical blackening doesn't offer much corrosion protection - it just looks nice (temporarily) Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 Phosphating? That's black Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted December 18, 2012 Author Share Posted December 18, 2012 I decided on polishing and painting, bought a cheap polishing kit off ebay, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300801438964?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Took less than 15mins to get a nice finish, then I painted everything else black. 100' of 14mm bow rope fills the 525 rather well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted December 18, 2012 Share Posted December 18, 2012 That looks fantastic! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted December 18, 2012 Author Share Posted December 18, 2012 Thanks Si, the entire front end has come out as well as I hoped for. The only problem now is it makes the rest of the truck look scruffy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 probably about £25, 50mm slot up the middle, make the slot at least 40mm narrower than the winch drum to reduce side bunching. then run around the edge of the slot with a 25mm radius tool on the outside and 5mm rad on the inside. Sorry to drag this back up Dan... How narrow do you think It would be sensible to go on a fairlead for an EP9? drum is roughly 230mm wide (measured in the dark!). Would 40mm narrower than the drum be too much? How wide is the 525 drum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 40-50mm narrower is about the width i'd i'd have the fairlead Ross, really helps with side bunching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 Thanks for that Dan, I went with 40mm narrower in the end and its got a 30mm rad for the rope This is the ali prototype after one side has been machined. It was 1 hour of roughing followed by 2 hours of the finishing cut. Final version will be in stainless (304) and should hopefully go on the mill monday. (Reminds me, really must buy some beer for my mate with access to the CNC). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 Looks good Ross, very good in fact. I could really do with finding a friendly cnc man. Does it protrude far enough the stop the rope abrading itself on the bumper on side pulls? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 Thanks . My own design other than shaping of the outside....Barry a.k.a Cwazywabbit suggested adding that shape to it . I hadn't thought of that actually. The fairlead is 40mm thick at the moment. its about 48mm to be level with the bumper. Think I'll add some materal to the back of the model... unless he's already blocked it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 You can always space the fairlead off the bumper if you're too late Ross. Whilst you're delivering beer to your mate can you tell him he's a git from all us on here who can't play with nice toys like him all day?? Ta muchly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 What is more annoying is that is just the prototype that will get binned when the stainless one is made! It looks gorgeous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 Spacer it will have to be... its already been blocked down and machine programmed (the tooling won't reach that far). I'll pass that on Bish . Annoying thing is I have access to a mill and lathe at work, but no CNC stuff . Binned Barry?!!! Don't be so silly! I'd like it to end up on the mantle piece . However, I'm sure Mom would have something to say about it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 You should fit it to the front door as a letterbox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 That would be rather nice... would need to be a bit wider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 Just have smaller letters! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joyadesuza Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 Thanks for sharing this post with us. I want to purchase this can you please suggest me how I can purchase this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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