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Turbo Boost Gauge


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Hi All I have finally got round to plumbing in the boost gauge after my inter-cooler upgrade and pump tweak (very minor tweak) on my 200tdi 90.

It worked well but the needle seems to sit almost at 1BAR for most of the time the vehicle is being driven.

I know I have posted before asking the correct boost pressure and was told no more than 1 BAR but this gauge has a colour scale that follows the pressure level and the 1BAR marking is well within the red section :unsure:.

The gauge sits half way when idling as I think this dial could be fitted to petrol engines and in that case read vacuum as well as positive boost. Perhaps that's the reason for the scary coloured scale. That seems to infer that your engine is about to melt :unsure:. The temperature gauge doesn't seem to move higher than usual at just below halfway so perhaps its nothing to worry about

Should the needle sit around 1 BAR but not quite most of the time or should I keep a bucket of sand in the cab <_< ?

Cheers

J2J

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is that it?! :huh:

what happens if its more? :ph34r: i thourth absolute max was 24psi for short periods of time, or is that td5?

1 bar is the factory standard setting, but it can be tweaked if the person doing the adjusting knows what they are doing, raising it to much creates high exhaust temp

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my 200tdi is pushing 24psi at the moment. My max power screw wound itself out, and i readjusted the turbo before i knew that the screw was wrong...

i was running 18-20 psi max before. but now ive wound the screw in i cant boot it all the way else ill over pressurise the head.

they can apparently take 18psi max safely.. the head is the limiting factor not the turbo. but i have accidentally pushed it to 24psi when in a "situation" before. someone decided to change lanes into my back quarter when on the M6, so i booted it, not looking at the guage obviously untill i was safe.

i need to turn the turbo back down.

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Errr overfuelling will not decrease EGT, at least not on my 200, the more diesel you add the quicker the EGT will rise. At least thats how mine reacted. Also running anything over 18psi on a standard turbo will turn it into a blow dryer, it will produce to much heat in the charge, not to mention your EGT's will sky rocket.

Mine runs abot 14psi with a max of 750 deg EGT when booted hard, and if keep my foot in it will touch 800 deg!

G

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and to add to that...

Max boost is governed by the turbo, a 200 tdi will accept and handle (but not fuel) 30 psi of boost IF the turbo cam deliver it cleanly and without excess heat, the standard one will not do that and imho, 14.5 psi is all its good for.

not strictly true. im not going to say i know all. but what i will say is my turbo has been upto 24psi for a short period of time a couple of times. and regularly sits at over 14 especially when towing. so it can take it, i was always told the head starts to lift before the turbo fails

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Not really, the turbo will be making a lot of heat beyond certain psi, this will get ingested by the engine making the charge hotter, add a lot of diesel, which in turn will melt a piston if you really push it The head might be fine with much more psi.

The turbo will also take a beating with big psi levels due to its trust bearing not being able to take the continued stress by the compressor wheel, it will eventually fail.

Now having said that, if longivity is not an issue, just disconnect the wastegate, crank in the fuel screw and let it rip............

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ive been looking at a slightly "safer" VNT and high surface area-low volume cooler option which keeps everything smoother and much cooler, which would be ideal for towing and probably easier on the box?

either that or a HUGE volume cooler for that turbo flutter noise but that aint good for the turbo either apparently, and you get masses of lag. so its really just for chavs that setup.

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either that or a HUGE volume cooler for that turbo flutter noise but that aint good for the turbo either apparently, and you get masses of lag.

Huge volume gives lag but also colder charge are so its upto you.... Turbo flutter can cause compressor surge, and yes you will end up with the turbo in bits but going through the engine.. not good.

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So you are still running a series box?........... must be a very good box or you treat it with love and compassion................... :moglite:

G

i am still running a series box. it must be a very good box, because i wouldnt say i treat it with love and compassion, and it never shows any signs of complaining. i have done the layshaft bearings in it last year (bearing in mind it had been stood in a field for 5 years before i put it on the road) running it for 2 years every time i changed the oil in it (only twice in 2 years) more sandy deposit would have been picked up into the oil.

obviously when i did the layshaft bearings, i completely stripped and checked the box. (it needs almost completely stripping anyway to get the layshaft race out the casing)

there is no excessive wear or pitting on any of the gears, synchromeshes, bushes or shafts, so i cant complain!

@bomber: thats why i was thinking of a low volume - high surface area cooler, as it would offer more cooling per cubic inch. so kind of a fairly decent comprimise. a mate knows a company that custom builds a cooler to your drawings, (have to be engineering drawings though) he got one that filled the front end of his RS turbo project for just over £200. much cheaper than any LR specialised cooler. plus my standard 200TDi cooler is mounted upside down, meaning if i got a off the shelf big cooler the lower port would go into the radiator.

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