kiwi_110 Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Hi, has anyone done this job? I've had a trawl through the tech archive and didn't get any hits. Would appreciate knowing any "gotchas" or tips for this please. TIA, Ray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 I nearly tried it, but then got a professional on it as it's a pretty involved job and I needed it working. Be prepared to change the flywheel if it's done more than ~100k as they're dual mass and you don't want to have it all apart again if you can avoid it... unfortunately the flywheels are pricey (gbp400 for a decent one, britpart are less but, well, you just shouldn't). Mine was actually the release bearing that went, and given the low-ish price (gbp80 for Borg & Beck) I'd be tempted to do that too while you're in there as they are concentric and hence changing it is an "all out" job too... Gotchas: The release bearing needs bleeding but the clutch is a sealed system... you'll need a funnel and a length of tube to get new fluid into the master cylinder. Also, as you have to take the front suspension apart you may have to get the tracking done afterwards. There's also a service bulletin about not buggering the gearbox input shaft seal when changing the release bearing. From memory there's something on the LuK or maybe Valeo website describing the job in broad strokes. There are solid flywheels available but they're as much or more than a proper one, and the dual mass one is there for a reason IMHO. The total bill for mine, including a few oil seals, clutch, flywheel, and release bearing including labour was gbp1000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 One of the problems I have had with these is that the selector arm will sieze onto the stub coming out of the gearbox - to the extent that I have removed them with a disc cutter and had to "carefully" remove the remains with the box on the bench. Its not a bad job on a two post ramp,there are nicer ways to spend your day though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi_110 Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 Thanks guys, that's good feedback so far. She's done 240,000 k's so I'm wondering about that flywheel.... I have acquired new slave and master cylinders etc, and clutch and cover, but had not counted on having to do the flywheel. I might just take a punt if there's nothing obvious wrong with it. I'll check the LuK and Valeo sites out. Cheers, Ray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 The flywheel's are usually a case of common sense,its fairly obvious when they are shot.I usually say to customers they have a 70-80% chance of needing one,and tell them up front the extra cost involved.Some of the garages I do diagnostic work for just change them "to cover themselves",but I cant see the point of throwing away good parts.I think the LR book time is about 5 1/2 hrs, but its a struggle to get near that.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 Found the bit of paper - the site I looked at was Valeo, they have a Technical Services Bulletin (T.S.B. CL006 / 08) about the oil seal, basically warning against buggering it up whilst removing the release bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickMc Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 The roll pin in the selector can be an absolute pain in the *$*£*!* to get out. It's a fairly involved job as has been said 80% of the time its a flywheel change as well. I'd change the hydraulics while i was in there too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theoptimist Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 Heavey duty full kit, for 600 quid, my clutch is starting to slip, due to being mainly off road and lots of towing, (bale trailer for the tractor probably didn't help) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LANDROVER-FREELANDER-TD4-SOLID-FLYWHEEL-CARBON-KEVLAR-HEAVY-DUTY-CLUTCH-CSC-/280808029729?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4161767e21 expensive but if heavily used, gives you a single mass flywheel heavey duty kevlar coated clutch plate etc. cheers the optimist, Ps 1.8 is only 80 quid really anoying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 I looked at solid flywheels but decided to stick with dual-mass 'cos, well, you don't go to the trouble of making a DMF without a good reason, I suspect it's much nicer to the gearbox as well as being smoother to drive. Also, the last one did 150k so I can live with that sort of performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theoptimist Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 thats a fair shout, on the dual mass. two days after righting my comment my clutch went, ordered a single mass flywheel, clutch kit and slave cylinder. for £399, my local garage can fit it for £375, is this a good price to get it fitted? its the lowest one i have found, unfortunately going to be stuck at the farm for another week as can't fit it in till next Wednesday, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 £375 fitting sounds ok, TBH I find the parts bill suspiciously cheap given my (DM) flywheel alone was £300+, be interested to know what brand the various parts are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 The flywheel's are usually a case of common sense,its fairly obvious when they are shot. Whats involved with checking the state of a DMF?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theoptimist Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 £375 fitting sounds ok, TBH I find the parts bill suspiciously cheap given my (DM) flywheel alone was £300+, be interested to know what brand the various parts are. valeo i think. got it from nationwide clutch distributors UK Ltd they're base in Blackpool. not the most imagantive of names. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 Whats involved with checking the state of a DMF?? There's no spec or measurement for it, it's just a case of looking at it and deciding if there's too much play. Mine was very obvious, the springs were slack... TBH though, if it's done 100k+ on the original flywheel I'd just change it while you're in there to avoid having to worry about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 I have this exact job to do the Saturday after next . . . .sounds like it is going to be fun! How long would you expect this job to take? I have done a fair few clutches on normal front wheel drive cars (plus some 200tdi's) so presumably its the same proceedure just with a transfer box in the way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 There's no spec or measurement for it, it's just a case of looking at it and deciding if there's too much play. Mine was very obvious, the springs were slack... TBH though, if it's done 100k+ on the original flywheel I'd just change it while you're in there to avoid having to worry about it. I just wondered exactly what to look for and where the play is detected/tested. Does this describe it well? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiffy73b Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 Straightforward job in a masochistic way. I had a problem with the clutch fully releasing after bleeding. In the end found it easier to put the gearbox in with just two bolts to secure, one of these being the awkward one behind the IRD . Then you can fit the IRD and with the clutch pedal depressed, turn the drive to see if the clutch is disengaging . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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