dirtyninety Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 Hi there, the same as many before me, i have been overcome with the constant answer on these forums "'squirt it Mr" So before the 4x4 show last weekend i contacted Nige/Megasquirt V8 and organised to pick up a self build MS1 ECU kit. It is now thursday, and ive got the majority of parts soldered in, and its working according to the tests ive run. I haven't spent every woken minute on this board, perhaps only 3hours. It really has been made terribly simple. I am building this board to FridgeFreezer spec. I have taken lots of photos, but currently cannot find my data cable amongst the serial cables and soldering irons. lots more to come, including quite a few questions. right now, im off to the pub! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 Pah, I just posted this in the other thread but I'll spam it here as well for reference: I also updated the drawing, Q19 is not fitted either. Found a pic, it's not exactly as per my drawing but close enough. Wires are tacked down with superglue, then the whole thing is cleaned & conformal-coated when done. D1 is heat-shrink insulated here. Wire is enamelled copper, someone thought I'd used bare wire once, that wouldn't work! (and yes I know the MAP sensor isn't soldered in in this pic) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 Fridge, you sir, are a GOD! Does it matter that i HAVE soldered Q19 in? should i unsolder that? Also, I've seen an old transformer in one of my many box's so going to harvest the enamelled wire from that. I have taken some photo's in fairly good steps, will post up shortly if i get bluetooth to work or find my data cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Q19 is not a big issue, it's the over-current protection for the fuel pump relay coil, but they sometimes* burn themselves out from being over-protective. I wouldn't bother unwinding a transformer, just get some bell wire from maplin/RS etc., it doesn't look quite so neat but it's much easier to solder (the enamelled wire is tricky to do). I'll try and get the TIP122 in the post today. * = This is all relative, MS is very reliable, and of the few failures I see it's hard to tell how many are down to owner errors in wiring etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 If you do use enamelled wire just remember to tin the end before you try soldering it, this burns the enamel off and allows soldering. You can buy the stuff on reels as well, although that would be enough to last any sane person several lifetimes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 I've purchased some bell wire just to get it right. Also ordered a 1k3 resistor Ive just got to build the rest of the truck now... best save for a roll cage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Should've said, I'd have tucked a 1k3 resistor in the jiffy bag too if I'd known. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 What a cracker of a thread one for the achive methinks ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 Beer is a must! And that is where I am upto, just awaiting some extra components and bridging wire When testing to see if i had accidently soldered the legs of q19 together, my multimeter tells me the bottom and middle legs are connected, but im sure as hell that they're not soldered together. I have looked up the datasheets for the particular transistor on digikey, but I cant find anything to tell me if those legs are internally connected. anybody know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Q19's legs are not internally connected, but depending on how you test it it may seem like it. Try reversing the probes, or using the diode test mode. Solder wick is very handy for sorting those out, the footprint they use is terrible for hand soldering. Also, use less heat-sink compound when putting the other devices on the heat-sink, you only need a tiny smear of it not a dollop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 Right, well i can see a clear line of blue between the solder pads, and ive even given it a little scratch with the tip of a probe to clear any very small bridges. Reversed the probs and it still seems connected. None of the other transistors (of the same type) behave like this. Will buy some solder wick and remove. Ah.. im not using the thermal grease that comes with the kit, ive been upgrading the CPU's in computers and have a some HY750 left over. I do admit I squeezed the syringe a bit hard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 ^^ Foggy in yer workshop ? Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 Haha, its two cold at the moment to go in the workshop to solder, my space heater would blow all the components away! Pictures are taken on my HTC wildfire, the quality is terrible because its been cracked and running cyanogen mod 7 (basically a different firmware so you can do cool/nerdy things with it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 ......different firmware so you can do cool/nerdy things with it) but carp pictures nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 I been building one too so took a few more photos - this is with just the mods on the board, missing the diode D1 for clarity: Detail of fitting the diode without touching stuff: How much heat-sink grease you need: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 That makes it MUCH more clear! Do you think the 0.6mm bell wire (current rating 1.8amps) is heavy enough gauge to bridge R43? My MOV1 offcuts seem to be too short! Also, do you place the componant into the board from the top side, then solder 1 leg in to hold it in place then do a full solder on the backside after populating? After the transistors are soldered and mods finished, I should be ready to plug my stim in and give it a test on the 'puter, or are there and safe(er) tests i can do first to check things are good? I tell you.. the MIG torch in the shed is much more forgiving! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 Cyanogen on my old HTC desire actually improved its photo taking abilities from stock! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 .... Also, do you place the componant into the board from the top side, then solder 1 leg in to hold it in place then do a full solder on the backside after populating? ..... If I'm building up any circuit board I tend to insert components from the top side and then splay the legs slightly to hold them in place. Then I'll turn over the board and solder one leg of each component on the back of the board, then take a quick look at the top to ensure all is still pretty, if anything is out of place I just put my finger on it while heating the soldered leg which allows me to straighten it up. When happy I'll solder the other legs up, I tend to place components in batches starting with small components then working up to the bigger ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 Legs from D5, D7, L1 & L2 are handy too (I think I may have done too many!). If you have a short piece of solid copper wire (EG from twin & earth mains wire) that will fit then that would do, TBH the bell wire would probably be OK, especially if you strip the insulation off. I do the mods 1st, then bung everything on from the top and solder one leg, flip it over, recover the one capacitor I missed soldering from on the floor, then solder everything from underneath. For testing, the stim is fine - 1st test is safer without plugging the PC in, just see if it will power up & not let the smoke out, by default you should have a running board. If that works, plug it into the PC, run megatune, check all the dials work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted February 25, 2013 Author Share Posted February 25, 2013 If I'm building up any circuit board I tend to insert components from the top side and then splay the legs slightly to hold them in place. Then I'll turn over the board and solder one leg of each component on the back of the board, then take a quick look at the top to ensure all is still pretty, if anything is out of place I just put my finger on it while heating the soldered leg which allows me to straighten it up. When happy I'll solder the other legs up, I tend to place components in batches starting with small components then working up to the bigger ones. That is how I've been doing it, except one componant at a time to make sure Im not mixing componants up. I've only made two mistakes with building this board tho. Legs from D5, D7, L1 & L2 are handy too (I think I may have done too many!). If you have a short piece of solid copper wire (EG from twin & earth mains wire) that will fit then that would do, TBH the bell wire would probably be OK, especially if you strip the insulation off.I do the mods 1st, then bung everything on from the top and solder one leg, flip it over, recover the one capacitor I missed soldering from on the floor, then solder everything from underneath. For testing, the stim is fine - 1st test is safer without plugging the PC in, just see if it will power up & not let the smoke out, by default you should have a running board. If that works, plug it into the PC, run megatune, check all the dials work. Thanks again Fridge, got plenty of twin and earth in the shed, probably should have already thought of that! In hindsight/ asked questions before I started soldering, Id have done the mod's first for a neater board. But that only comes with experience, which you have lots of, and I have none. Next board (yes the next one, don't think Im going to be able to help myself 'squirting something else) Ill do any mods first. I did the first tests as described on megamanual and all was well, so if everything else is well Im hoping the smoke should stay inside! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 No need to sweat it on the mods, it's possible to be just as neat in whichever order - I just find it easier with blank boards, and I can use plastic spring clamps to hold the wires down while the glue dries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted February 25, 2013 Author Share Posted February 25, 2013 Will normal/cheap super glue be ok to use on the board? I don't to dissolve or short anything out. (awaiting the postman with my bell wire and solder wick) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 I use normal superglue, only needs a few tiny dabs to hold the wire down, the conformal coat once built does the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted February 25, 2013 Author Share Posted February 25, 2013 Fridge, can you please do a continuity test of the two holes on Q19 closest to R57 and tell me your findings. I have now unsoldered the transistor and it still shows ive got a short!!! I shall continue with the rest of the board in the meantime!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted February 25, 2013 Author Share Posted February 25, 2013 just noticed aswell, you've bridged R40 in this picture, which is different to your previous versions! Should I leave my R40 soldered or unsolder and bridge? Im REALLY sorry for all the questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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