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300tdi fuel filter


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My vehicle is an ex turbo diesel with a 300tdi fitted. For some reason or other, the previous owner skimped on costs (can't understand why. he had bought the engine and R380 brand new in 1998!!) and left the turbo diesel fuel filter fitted. After 10 years of ownership, this is now really getting on my nerves and I would like to change it. Does the 200/300-type filter head fit to the existing bolt holes in the bulkhead on the earlier vehicle?

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No, they're not. The earlier type is a smaller filter with a steel bowl at the bottom and a bolt that goes through the head of the filter, down the centre of the filter and screws into the steel bowl. The later type is a larger filter which screws into the filter head (not unlike an oil filter).

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Ahh I see what you mean.... Nothing wrong with those filters. I've changed many. Have you measured the distand between the screws to see if there is any difference ? I would doubt there is but there might be....

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Rien you want the spin on type?? they might not fit at the bulkhead as they are physically taller than the cav. It s according to what is in the way. On a standard 300 the filter is mounted on the right inner wing lip i believe, as at the bukhead it will foul the air intake hose to the turbo.

As to the holes, the spacing is the same at the bulkhead as i have the cav type fitted there on a late 200 bulkhead.

Why not get a racor??

G

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The CAV and Bosch filter housings have the same bolt pattern to secure them to the bulkhead. The problem is that their piping is different and the size of banjo bolts varies too. Ultimately, the Bosh filter housing would allow you to use standard plumbing under the bonnet as and when the existing pipes sprout leaks, but you will need to replace a lot of the pipe work to get it to connect up correctly - the CAV piping is a little more complex, so a Bosch retrofit isn't difficult. You'll just need to swap everything over from where the feed and return lines cross the bulkhead threshold, in essence.

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Thanks for all your replies and suggestions. I still haven't decided what to do. The setup I have has worked just fine and i can't fault it in any way. It's just that it's not neat and I hate looking at it whenever I pop the bonnet open (which is quite often). As Snagger said, the Bosch system is simpler, hence, neater. Just one pipe in, one pipe out. Furthermore, I don't like the piping that's used in my vehicle. Rather than change the pipes from the ends of the banjo bolts, some eejut just cut the original pipes (stiff plastic) from both ends of the injection pump and fuel filter, leaving a 2 inch stub in place and push fit transparent plastic tubing onto the ends, secured with a mixture of jubilee clips and cable ties. I would just like to replace all the piping to avoid having too many joints.

One last question. over the past few months, the engine has been a bit reluctant to start. It turns over a couple of times sometimes (it never takes more than 3 seconds of cranking to fire up) but it used to be better. I know that the timing isn't 100% spot on. When I replaced the timing belt, the crankshaft remained about half a tooth out and no matter how many times I removed the belt, re-set the pulleys, refitted the belt, etc, I kept getting the same result. Furthermore, the lift pump died about a month after replacing the timing belt and I've felt that with the new lift pump, the engine has become ever so slightly lazier in starting up. I had a quick look a couple of days ago and saw a few small air bubbles in the return pipe. Should they be there?

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Rien check the return pipes on the injectors, my dads 300 started playing up like that and it was one of the pipes which was sucking in some air overnight, making it hard to start up. Then it would be fine all day. Found it cracked a little. Could be other things as well.

g

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Thanks for all your replies and suggestions. I still haven't decided what to do. The setup I have has worked just fine and i can't fault it in any way.

Except your are damaging the injectors. The filtration levels are not high enough.....

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Hmmm funny you say that, but if the filter was good for a turbo diesel engine, why would the filtration levels not be enough? for a tdi?? Are the filter microns different?

please eleborate on this.

I personally run dual filters, but thats me.

G

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I have suffered the same leak-off pipe failure as Gremlin. It seems to afflict my 300 Tdi frequently, but not the 200, even though the pipe is similar. It's the rubber hose hidden inside the black braiding which splits, initially leaking air in and if the leak gets bad enough, diesel out. Don't buy the whole pipe from LR - it costs a fortune. Just get a roll of 4mm fuel hose from Halfords and replace the hoses with the fittings still on the injectors.

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I had the LR Genuine Parts 300TDi / R380 conversion done to my 2.5NA D 90 back in 2005.

I am surprised the previous owner of your vehicle retained the earlier filter as the later type (including all the pipework etc) is part of the kit. Essentially you open the bonnet and everything is 300TDi, all located in the correct position. In this case the fuel-filter is on the OS wing in-front of the header tank (which should be the rectangular plastic type which is also part of the conversion).

I would love to upload some before & after photos but for some reason I am unable to do so on this site. :-(

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Reiny - how many Ks have the landie been driven since your timing belt was changed? And are you dead certain that you turqued up the crankshaft pulley bolt to the right torque (IIRC 80NM + 90deg clockwise)? If the crank bolt is slightly loose the pulley will eventually wear a slot where the woodruff key is and put your timing off, which will affect starting.

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Jode, timing belt was replaced in February. Covered 2000 miles since then. Yes I do believe that I torqued the crankshaft up to the right torque. Chocked wheels, handbrake on, in gear, 80 Nm (that was easy), then approx 45 degrees (pretty hard), and another 45 degrees (woke the whole neighbourhood with my groans!)

Quick update. Since I first posted, I have had no further trouble with starting. The fact that the fuel tank is now totally full may have something to do with it. Serviced the vehicle over the weekend and today it fired up on the button. I'll keep it monitored and see i it repeats the same symptoms when the amount of fuel in the tank decreases. The few air bubbles I saw in the return pipe were in the bit between the rear of the fuel injection pump and the bulkhead (returning to the fuel tank). Should that narrow my search down?

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A full fuel tank affecting starting points to two things: a weak lift pump that has trouble lifting fuel from low level but manages from the high level when the tank is full, or a holed pick up pipe in the tank, allowing air to be sucked into the system when the fuel level drops below the hole. he latter would explain the bubbles.

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Just wanted to thank you for your tips and replies. Gremlin, you were spot on as usual. Changed the spill pipes and the beast is back to her old self :) Fuel tank is almost empty at the moment and yet she fired up instantly. I think I owe you more than one drink mate. Thought I'd see you at our usual haunt last Saturday. It was heavenly.

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