Bowie69 Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Can't believe how quickly this is all coming together, nice work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted October 19, 2013 Author Share Posted October 19, 2013 Right then, today we managed to do that whole list Ii put up in the last post and got the front end practically finished. Only thing that needs doing bodywork wise is bolting the wings and wing stays up properly as there is a large gap between bonnet and wing on the passenger side. Also got the roof rubbed down and painted in limestone tonight Going to do the sides when its actually on the vehicle Tomorrow we'll hopefully all being well get the brakes bled and the roof on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted October 20, 2013 Author Share Posted October 20, 2013 Got the roof on tonight, all be it on blocks so we can stick mastic down before finally fitting it in place The more observant amongst you may realise its facing the opposite direction to yesterday, that's because we bled the brakes this morning and my dad backed it out the garage, turned it and backed it in to make it easier to get the roof on. And yes this time I have a video of it (filmed by my brother on his phone hence the funny quality - will do a better one tomorrow with the proper camera after sorting out the tappets) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted October 27, 2013 Author Share Posted October 27, 2013 Been adjusting my fuel pump today as it was kicking off a lot of white smoke and running a bit lumpy (i.e. it was firing a bit too late so a lot of excess diesel was going through the exhaust) To set the timing on the 2.5 N/A diesel, you slacken off the 3 nuts holding the pump to the front timing case just enough so you can lever the pump. Start up the engine and while its running use a long pry-bar to tilt the pump towards the wing to bring the timing in (and the opposite to make it fire later). Its amazing how much difference a little bit of pump movement makes, 1 second it was running lumpy and with a slight nudge the engine note changed for the better and the smoke started to disappear. Result now is its running far far smoother than it was in the video with no white smoke at all. Today we also painted the roof sides in limestone (will get pics tomorrow after work and will try and get a decent video of the engine running) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serious Series Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 You risk damaging the injection pipes by doing it that way better off doing it static with pipes slackened . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 Tonight I gave the old landy a run and took a video (we all like a good video). Runs a lot nicer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bm52 Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 very impressive. One day i would like to re-furb and SIII or an early 90. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Not selling it are you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 Haha no Im not selling it It has a certain sentimental value to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 Guessed not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted November 23, 2013 Author Share Posted November 23, 2013 Okay, a little update, got the tunnel and seats in. The floor was put down but then remembered I need to put mastic on there first :doh: So that will be done tomorrow. Today, I've painted the sump and just done some touching up of the chassis's black paint while my Dad has been doing a little more on our centre console radio holder thingy. Earlier we drove the series out the garage to turn it round to put it on the ramps and even with the doors off and no headlining, its already quieter than it used to be so result Will get some piccy's tomorrow when we get the floor and stuff in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 23, 2013 Share Posted November 23, 2013 Don't glue the floor down, you'll curse it when you need to remove it again. The factory fit is to use an adhesive foam seal strip, similar to the type you use for sealing up draughts in doors/windows. And indeed when I do them I just use some of that from B&Q! Apologies if I've misinterpreted your post though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted November 23, 2013 Author Share Posted November 23, 2013 It used to have mastick on it so I'll put mastic back on, thats only the reason im using it, it helps seal it all as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted December 1, 2013 Author Share Posted December 1, 2013 Right then another update methinks. We were getting fed up with constantly shifting stuff around the garage and we had some wood to use up so we built ourelves a few shelves in the top end of the garage for putting project bits and pieces on. This now of course means the back of the landy could be cleared out This also shows the roof on and the ladder on temporarily to keep it out of the way. Inside has been bolted in now and is ready for carpet And a couple of pics showing how our homemade radio console will fit (the notch is so we can get into reverse While my dad had a week off he welded up the door bottoms and put soundproofing in them This morning I painted the door tops ready for putting the glass in over the next week hopefully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted December 10, 2013 Author Share Posted December 10, 2013 Right then tonight we set about removing the glass from the drivers door top (doing one at a time to reduce risk of mixing parts up) First job was to remove the aluminium strip at the front of the glass using a flat bladed screwdriver to remove the screws Next the rubber stop was removed Then the 4 screws in the felt runner were removed. These are difficult to spot and go in at an angle Once these screws are out, you can tilt the sliding glass and remove it from the frame One of the filler pieces Using a blade the old mastic type stuff was removed (very carefully so as not to damage the glass and prevent it cracking) This bit can then be removed The window lock was then removed by drilling through the rivets that hold it on. I'm going to try and get some stickaflex to use when putting the glass back in (maybe tomorrow if I can get some) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 The original sticky sealant stuff is called Dum Dum putty and you can still buy it, paddocks stocks it and i find it works really well, as it never completely dries out this means it doesn't shrink like "silicone" sealants and therefore keeps a better seal. you apply it by hand rolling it into sausages and pressing down onto the window frame, and it is kind of play doh like not too messy to work with and doesn't get all over everything like sitickaflex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted December 10, 2013 Author Share Posted December 10, 2013 The original sticky sealant stuff is called Dum Dum putty and you can still buy it, paddocks stocks it and i find it works really well, as it never completely dries out this means it doesn't shrink like "silicone" sealants and therefore keeps a better seal. you apply it by hand rolling it into sausages and pressing down onto the window frame, and it is kind of play doh like not too messy to work with and doesn't get all over everything like sitickaflex Thanks for that I know I can buy that stuff but I can get stickaflex from work pretty handy, we use it for putting the windows in boats so should be okay for this I think. We use stickaflex also for doing skin fittings so the seal should be good Thanks for the info though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 fair enough, im not knocking stickaflex in any way i thought you just might like to know you can still get that stuff in case you were interested and didnt know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serious Series Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Sicaflex took the paint of my door tops and window also dropped out as I had been advised screws would not be required with it. Dum Dum for me . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted December 12, 2013 Author Share Posted December 12, 2013 Sicaflex took the paint of my door tops and window also dropped out as I had been advised screws would not be required with it. Dum Dum for me . Its stuck on now with sicaflex, put a decent bead all round How did it take the paint off, did you try peeling off the bits that went over? I think I'll be definitely putting the screws back in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serious Series Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 Sicaflex seemed to weep on the surface and the paint which was adjacent to it bubbled and lifted. I had used the series 2 clubs plastic channel and it was recomended it did not need screws if well stuck in place, has screws in the bulk of it now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Shame about the notch in the radio mount - it looks very smart otherwise. I had a similar issue when I fit a Mudstuff centre console. I used a blow torch, vice and length of steel tube to bend the gear stick towards the driver's seat to create the require clearance, and even though I had to put a 10 degree (estimated) bend about 1/3 of the way up from the base because I could't get the vice to grip well enough lower down and also to ensure the lower part of the lever clears the overdrive lever, it looks perfectly original and smart and also make reaching and selecting all gears much, much easier (especially for shorter people). I think LR only made the levers so far forward to allow use of the middle seat, so unless you need to use it, then bending the stick is a good alternative. Incidentally, I found heat-shrink cable sleeving a very good way of creating a smooth, even and chip/scratch-resistant finish. Paint is just to much hassle and is so easy to scratch... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 heatshrink is a clever idea indeed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted December 16, 2013 Author Share Posted December 16, 2013 Shame about the notch in the radio mount - it looks very smart otherwise. I had a similar issue when I fit a Mudstuff centre console. I used a blow torch, vice and length of steel tube to bend the gear stick towards the driver's seat to create the require clearance, and even though I had to put a 10 degree (estimated) bend about 1/3 of the way up from the base because I could't get the vice to grip well enough lower down and also to ensure the lower part of the lever clears the overdrive lever, it looks perfectly original and smart and also make reaching and selecting all gears much, much easier (especially for shorter people). I think LR only made the levers so far forward to allow use of the middle seat, so unless you need to use it, then bending the stick is a good alternative. Incidentally, I found heat-shrink cable sleeving a very good way of creating a smooth, even and chip/scratch-resistant finish. Paint is just to much hassle and is so easy to scratch... It will look better when its finished I think as its going to have black carpet round it. We did think of bending the gearstick but did the notch instead. (the TD5 radio console also has a notch but not as pronounced), may still bend it to do that eventually but for now it looks ok (looks better in real life than on the photos) The middle seat is staying in by the way, I know its useless for anyone over 4' but 'm going to use the underseat toolbox as a sort of hidden cubby box. I dont think a cubby box looks quite right anyway (just my opinion, I've seen some very good homemade ones though). I think I'm going to bend the overdrive lever so it clears the middle seat anyway so bending the stick may be an option in the future but at the minute I find it ok to use as I'm pretty tall and can reach it okay Heat shrink is a very good idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted January 2, 2014 Author Share Posted January 2, 2014 Okay I'm back! One thing I forgot to mention is there are 4 filler strips in the window, One at the back, one at the bottom and 2 at the top (one above the sliding window and a flat one above the fixed pane of glass. When putting the window lock in you may have to file the opening for i as if it's tight it will pinch on the sliding bit and will be stupidly tight to use if left like that. So I went around the swuare hole with a file until it fitted loosely and voila, the window lock works nicely now Also the bottom felt rail needs a hole cutting in the bottom for the window lock to actually go through to lock the window so that was done before fitting/ Tada! One finished window A couple of pics of the doors now they have been reunited with the door tops I lost 2 of the old door top nuts (they've been put somewhere safe!) so ordered new nylocs. If anyone needs to order these, the thread size is 7/16 UNF The back door was cleaned up on Tuesday and its pretty good, just with a couple of minor areas that need attention It had holes in the bottom which were fixed by cutting out the old steel and welding in a new plate There was also a big hole around where the door lock goes so this was welded up. (the picture shows it before the welds were ground back down) The door was then given a coat of kurust and then I painted the steel sections with red oxide The next task was door seals, these are the on the roll ones from paddocks which dont have a metal strip in them. I have heard some stories of these not fitting well when put on but so far they seem to sit in the channel quite well and when stuck in place seem to match the old ones, we shall see when the doors are put on. It does help to cut the seals to length beforehand. The way we stick them on is to wipe where the door seal sits clean with white spirit and wait for that to dry, then using sicaflex, a good bead is run down the channel. The seal is then pushed in place and held with spring clamps to ensure the sicaflex bonds properly. With little clamps you can use them direct on the rubber but with larger more powwerful clamps, we used a bit of wood on top of the rubber to protect it. Here are some pics to show it Clamps and wood in place: many clamps are put on the curved section by the doors to help hold the rubber down and give it a chance to bond properly Heres one we prepared earlier (its actually a lot straighter than it looks in the picture on the windscreen edge). The sicaflex has bonded to it well and it makes for a good strong bond We elected to do the back door seal in one piece instead of 5 (excuse the poor lighting) Also swapped the transfer box knobs around for new ones. The yellow one is a pain, you need to get underneath and wedge something so that the yellow lever does not push down (i.e. it is kept in the fully up position). Then you put the spring on and compress it enough for the thread on the locknut/knob to start (you can compress with no tools, just using your hands). One hand kept the spring compressed and the other wound the nut/ knob on. The manual states that when the lever is depressed, "adjust the locknut until the compressed spring length is 58mm (2.312" ) " The console has been fitted at the top, just needs attaching at the bottom (hence the gap) I dont think I showed you how we mounted the stereo aerial so heres a couple of pics with it fully extended More to come soon! Going to finish off the seals tomorrow (we leave the sicaflex overnight to allow it to get a strong bond - it does go off quicker but its better than disturbing it beforehand) and then when they're done the doors are ready to go on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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