Sidelamp/Indicator Lens Removal

[Inigo]

I need to replace an indicator bulb and assumed it would be a simple, straightforward job.

The owner's manual says to simply remove two screws and withdraw the lens - which I can't. Tried wacking it with a rubber mallet and gentle prying, but it appears to be stuck. Peering through the lens I can see some additional screw holding the body of the assembly on to the front of the car.

On my Puma the whole assembly was removed.

Any tips before I break something?

[Big.Mike]

Should be that simple... have you got a picture of the other screw?

[western]

the older lights have 2 screws holding the lens on & 3 screws holding the light body to the bodywork.

maybe the previous owner has glued the lens & body together.

[Inigo]

I have removed the two screws and can see the three screws and feel them from inside the engine bay. I think glue may be the culprit - makes it somewhat tricky to change bulbs.

I shall give it another go and see what breaks first.

[western]

it is possible to retrofit the later style lights as on your other LR, but the big hole needs to be enlarged and 2 more holes drilled for the 2 screws. I've changed some my side/ & front indicators to the later style.

[Inigo]

Well that's good to know as I smash off the old ones.

[Troll Hunter]

Having, yet again, replaced side/tail lights on my '91 Defender due to Britpart poor quality items are the later ones referred to above any better? I seem to experience three problems with their lamp units:

- the lens fixing screws are too short or too narrow to adequately grip the plastic receivers, so the lenses then leak and get dirty inside,

- the plastic receivers split and parts break off, rendering the lens impossible to attach securely, and

- the plastic bulb holder is so flimsy that heat from the bulb gradually distorts it and the bulb thus becomes loose, and either loses electrical contact or maintains electrical contact but is in contact with the plastic holder which it further overheats until it virtually falls out of the holder. This especially true for the tail/brake lights, presumably due to the higher wattage of the brake lights. Whenever possible I use the park brake instead of holding the foot brake on.

I'm not surprised if someone has glued the lens cover onto the plastic base. That solves the short screw problem and the ongoing water ingress problem, although it does make bulb replacement difficult!

Mike

[Simon Smith]

I fitted a set of the RDX LED lamps today, they certainly solve all the normal problems and seem very robust, I just got fed up with the poor quality of all the standard lights I had tried.

[Inigo]

Chiselled off the offending lens (only breaking it a bit in the process). When I tested the bulb, it was fine. I suspect my changing headlamps disturbed the handful of spaghetti behind the lights and my prolonged hammering temporarily dealt with the loose connection.

I shall:

replace cracked and glued back together lens

replace rusted screws with stainless

replace standard bulbs with LED (except indicators) to reduce heat

[landroversforever]

Replace the indicators as well. No reason not to. Just change the flasher relay for a suitable one.

[Simon Smith]

I swapped all mine for LED bulbs but still suffered the poor quality lamps causing failures, the RDX ones are sealed units, and also give a better output than LED bulbs. Wipac also do sealed ones and they look pretty good too, my choice was only down to a toss of the coin, and the adjustable flasher unit that means the trailer light works properly for the new MOT.