ibexman Posted September 22, 2013 Share Posted September 22, 2013 I have a 27000 mile td5 90 and the oil light stays on at idle . i have changed oil and both filters and oil pressure sensor any thoughts cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangy35 Posted September 22, 2013 Share Posted September 22, 2013 How about a oil pressure test with a gauge, cold and hot, tell us what you see. The specs I cant remember off the top of my head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Woodward Posted September 22, 2013 Share Posted September 22, 2013 Wasn't there a problem on these engines with the bolt coming loose on the oil pump drive sprocket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted September 22, 2013 Share Posted September 22, 2013 There was and the oil light staying on was the sign catastrophic damage had just been done ..... However .. With the post saying 'staying on at idle' I assumed that it goes out when taken above idle and has been used in that condition ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 I'd say get a gauge on it. A proper [mechanical] oil-pressure gauge on the dash - in place of the original clock - was one of the first things I did when I bought my 90. For reference when completely warmed-up my 2001 TD5 running on 15W-40 fully-synthetic oil reads 45PSI when the engine's on the rev-limiter, and around 15PSI at idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Tanuki, where did you plumb it in ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Tanuki,where did you plumb it in ? I fitted a T-piece in the hole where the warning-light sender fits. Warning-light sender then screws into one leg of the T-piece, the other leg has a 1/8BSP thread for the nipple that takes the small-bore Nylon pipe to the gauge. (I put some spiral cable-wrap round the nylon pipe over the length thats close to the turbo & exhaust-downpipe as the idea of the pipe melting and spraying hot oil all over the turbo is unattractive). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 I have something similar on my car, but with an electronic sender and electrical guage. I didnt like the idea of having an oil feed inside the car, which will invariably split and deposit oil everywhere! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Thank you ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangy35 Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 So any tests done?? Or are we just going to hang here?? Specs is cold pressure 3.0 Bar Oil pressure relieve pressure 4.0 Bar Oil pressure hot at 3500 rpm 1.5-3.0 Bar Oil light will be switched on if the oil pressure drops below 0.2-0.6 Bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibexman Posted September 30, 2013 Author Share Posted September 30, 2013 As. Tested by beadles landrover. 6 to 8 psi at idle. 75 psi at 4000 rpm Any thoughts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 What did the garage say? To get to up to 75PSI, seems like your pressure release valve is stuffed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibexman Posted October 1, 2013 Author Share Posted October 1, 2013 They wanted £275 plus vat to take off sump and investigate further , would not say if it was pressure relief or oil pump ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangy35 Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 Don't forget a oil pump does not create pressure, it only creates flow, the pressure is created by the oil clearances between the moving parts. I am guessing the pressures you gave us in Bar. 6-8 Psi seems in the region of 0.5 Bar which puts the pressure exactly where the switch will put the light on. 75 Psi hot/normal running temp is 5 Bar that don't sound right , I can see this happen when cold and running the wrong viscosity oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 75psi at 4000rpm doesnt sound that unusual to me, my Audi produces 5 bar oil pressure by around 3-3.5k once hot, and its PRV opens around 6bar. The odd bit is the suggestion that the relief valve is supposed to open at 4 bar. If it opens at 4 bar, and the engines producing 5 bar, it suggests its jammed closed. But if its jammed closed, surely it couldnt then cause low pressure at idle. I guess it could be jammed slightly open. Enough to cause low oil pressure at idle, but not enough to stop the pressure exceeding 4bar at high RPM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 I guess it could be jammed slightly open. This is where my thoughts had got me to as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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