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Can this be repaired?


Nigelw

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Brain fart time, grinding it back where the seal sits and fitting a sleeve to original diameter, then grind lip off the sleeve to original diameter, think I just worked it out for myself???????

Anyone think that is a good or bad idea?

Need to make sure you don't create a stress point, i.e. a step. Are these case hardened or just no hardening at all? If case hardened not sure you should be removing any material from it...

Have you tried polishing it with emery? See how much undersized it would be for a smooth finish? Ought to be able to pop it in a lathe to speed the process up a bit.

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Right I can confirm the speedi-sleeve is of the 32mm flavor and is now fitted, I removed the new seals I had fitted and refitted the shaft, as it has been empty of oil for a week now the shaft was just wiped over with acetone and a smear of locktite thread seal on the shaft, the sleeve needed a little persuasion but went into place just nicely, fit the new seals and now waiting for the locktite to go hard before I fill it with oil. I was tempted to just knock it up as far as the bearings but me being me I kept testing it with the seal to see how it fitted and to be honest I don't know how far off the bearings it is as I forgot to look and was just happy to re-assemble the steering box.

So it goes like this.

Speedi-sleeve in 32mm diameter and a 31.75 is available too should you need a tighter fitting sleeve.

Will keep you guys posted on how long it lasts, will post some photos of it too when I can find the lead for my camera :blush:

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I take you didn't machine anything off the shaft in the end? :)

Not this time, but I am looking for another victim researcher for another type of repair, worth investigating possibilities further for this as it is a common problem and often the only available solution is to go down the expensive replacement route, whether that be a reconditioned box with no guarantee or a brand new box from Adwest.

See how long this one lasts for first I suppose :ph34r:

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Cut and pasted from my build thread

So I have gone with the speedi-sleeve route as my first attempt to see if I can help others find a cheaper solution to the dreaded leaky steering box, now in hind sight(such a wonderful thing is hind sight :rolleyes: ) I should have actually ordered the size smaller sleeve due to this shaft obviously having seen a sheet of emery cloth before now but hey ho, the size for the shaft is 32mm I got a 32mm sleeve but really would have been better off getting the 31.75 to give a better friction fit, live and learn hey but I have fitted the sleeve with a lock and seal compound so it should not move once cured, I had originally wanted to go down the route of grinding and building up but for the benefit of others I have chosen to explore other avenues to see what can be done and how cheaply it can be done too, so I had built the box up ready for a refinished shaft to be fitted.

Rusty240913016_zps4c898e12.jpg

So before I could begin it was a case of removing the circlip, dust shield and seal retainer washer, and then the seal, once out the shaft could be refitted and with a good wipe around with acetone to clear off any grease or oil back to bare metal, when burnt off a cotton bud dipped in the lockseal can be wiped around the area the sleeve will sit.

Rusty011013016_zpsc3a3a9f9.jpg

Rusty011013017_zpsc56d8830.jpg

Then basically just reassemble the seals and dust sheild/retaining washer and circlip and wait for tomorrow to fit it, the lockseal should have cured by then.

Let us see how long this repair lasts shall we :lol:

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I would be very interested if you can quote the precise piece of legislation which says this.

Nick.

I can't quote the legislation however the MOT inspection manual in section 2.2 page 4 has a reason for rejection of -

e) inappropriate structural modification or

repair by welding to a steering linkage

component, or signs of excessive heat

having been applied

EDIT: Apparently that is section 2.2C

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Embrittlement will take place when hard chroming, its due to the high acid temperature that is required as the medium of transfer during electrolosis from the sourse - a small pure chrome ingot - to the target material - the steering shaft.

Note we are talking of embrittlement to a depth of microns. I would also assume (and that can make an ass out of you and me) that the original shaft would also have been heat trated and hardened as a manufacturing process, if it was simply standard machinable steel it would'nt last very long.

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