wanted some info p38 chassis

[cornishlandroverbreakers]

I have broke land rovers for a while now but yet to build one

I want to build one to race nothing to serious , I want to use a p38 4.6 with auto box and do the following balanced bottom end 4.0 high comp pistons, big valve ported heads, ported inlet/45mm trumpets, bored out plenum , chipped etc.

I read about people building them but never on a p38 chassis is there any reason for this.

is so what chassis is going to be best and engine/gearbox combo

thanks in advance

[Team Idris]

Maybe it's the unknown? I looked online and as far as I can see the wide chassis would help the roll cage, especially the front hoop.

It could be a strength issue, where the chassis is more of a sub frame? Brace it right and I can't see an issue for racing

[sean f]

Part of the problem would be controlling the gearbox and transfer box as they are electronically controlled.

The gearbox can be sorted with a Compushift unit from Ashcroft or something similar but as far as I am aware at the moment there is no off the shelf way of controlling the transfer box, I expect it could be modified some how but I am not sure how. Its not as simple as just fitting another transfer box either as the pitch is to the other side.

On the plus side there are plenty about and they are cheap!.

[Daan]

The biggest problem is that the transfer box has a left hand drop, which means you are stuck with the viscous transfer box, and very little options on ratios etcetera.

It also means the diffs are on the other side compared to most land rivers, which means you get stuck more often, because the ruts are made for th side diffs

Daan

[Bowie69]

I can't imagine controlling the transfer box is any more than a linear motor that requires 12V in one or the other polarity to put it in low range or high range.

I wouldn't be on such a downer on P38 for a racer, you're depending on what racing you are on about doing, you may well not get into a rut at all, and the suspension and axles are an improvement over a 'normal' LR setup.

Depends how far you want to go I think.... If you have lotsa cash then a tomcat or similar would be good

[Daan]

I have read a story in one of the mags were someone turned a p38 into a arc trailer, big advantage it does have is the cranked radius arms, giving better steering lock.

Daan

[sean f]

Not trying to put a downer on it and I think the P38 setup is almost ideal for a budget racer, big engine, good suspension, fewer rust issues than most LR products and of course cheap to buy, just need to ba aware of the potential pit falls from the beginning.

I suspect the autobox could be switched for an earlier non electronic one if needed, no idea now the electrics work in the tranfer box but as a simple out I expect it could be put in high and then just locked up there, how often is low ratio actually used on a comp?.

I have a P38 running a LT230 tranfer box, did require a few minor modifications though, putting the engine in the back and then turning the diffs upside down in the axles amongst a few others, so not exactly standard, with 400BHP it does shift though!.

[Bowie69]

You can definitely fit an HP22 non-electronic box to the V8, problem then being is that the LT230 would be the wrong drop for the axles, I do wonder if you could fit the non-electronic guts from an HP22 to an HP24 then you are sorted

[elbekko]

The transfer box should be pretty easy to make a controller for, everything is clearly described in RAVE. Plus, I think the ECU can just be reused without much fuss, it doesn't do all that much.

[j90 mud]

Speak to Whitbread off-road about their p38 project