Spongie Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 I've worn out hand brake pads! Well my wife did... Drove the series a fair bit with handbrake on, thankfully rear crank seal weeped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jai_landrover Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Do you run 3.54 diffs and a series gearbox?? If so you lost effeciency there, A std setup serviced hand brake works well Except for caked in mud, A point worth looking into. I may be mistaken but didnt older rover cars have slave cylinders with a mechanical hand brake linkage to pull on the drums? I did toy with this and independant levers for trials so you can lock the spinning wheel but never got any furthur than finding a slave cylinder the correct size to fit from my old mans scrap collection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 i run both 3.54 diffs and 235/80R16's so there is a fair bit of efficiency loss there yes. the standard handbrake on a standard series can be great, although as with all modified vehicles especially off roaders, its the maintenance and reliability issues i am trying to reduce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 I've worn out X-brake pads through rattling - mine was an early one before the advice to silicone the pads in was standard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Fitting the longitudinal tie on a Series transmission does wonders for brake efficiency - mine has no trouble on steep hills, even with the 3.54s and all its extra weight. Whether it would cope with very steep off-road conditions I don't know, but I suspect the efficiency gain of the tie is comparable to or slightly greater than the loss of the diff change. Fitting the auto-box type locking brake would be a great second system in addition to the existing hand brake, made to work so that the locking arm only moved into position on the last couple of lever clicks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Do you run 3.54 diffs and a series gearbox?? If so you lost effeciency there, A std setup serviced hand brake works well Except for caked in mud, A point worth looking into. I may be mistaken but didnt older rover cars have slave cylinders with a mechanical hand brake linkage to pull on the drums? I did toy with this and independant levers for trials so you can lock the spinning wheel but never got any furthur than finding a slave cylinder the correct size to fit from my old mans scrap collection. you are correct about early Rover car wheel cylinders having a handbrake facility. The series One 107"WB vehicle had the same cylinders minus the expanders. the main issue with series hand brakes IMO is that due to the flexible mounting of the transmission to the chassis and the inflexible mounting of the linkage to the chassis, every time the front axle suspension flexes the propshaft pushes the transmission rearwards slightly, thus wearing away the handbrake shoes. The later tie bar does help a little, but a cable or remounting the handbrake lever to the transmission would be a better solution IMO. For a shorter term solution where hydraulic creep is not an issue, assuming hydraulic line locks are illegal, how about attaching one of those old pull and twist hand brake levers to the brake pedal via a bellcrank .Or just a stick jammed between the brake pedal and the seat box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 interesting thought on those double acting wheel cylinders, i assume they would be a near straight fit to the backing plate, im just unsure as to wether they would put out a similar braking force than the standard cylinders. if they do they could work well as a cable operated rear wheel brake system, or maybe would be able to adapt them to the handbrake drum, keeping a mechanical link, whilst having a hydraulic ability too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jai_landrover Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 I had some that would fit my 90 rear backplate however one of those projects that got shelved Not sure where they cane from my old man has boxes of old carp like that and probably from an old rover car i suspect. Was my first lesson in reaming out knackared wheel cylinders and seal kits! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 How different is the series brake to the LT230 brake? In my experience the latest incarnation of brake from say a 300 disco where the cable enters the backing plate directly is trouble free enough for most people Maybe starting with a brake designed for 2.5tons minimum and 3.54 diffs would be a good option, plus very very cheap to obtain, as long as it is adaptable it might do your job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 the issue there it the series brake is quite narrow, maybe 3.5-4" wide in total and actuated by a rod system, which is just pitiful to say the least. a decent "later" handbrake system would make life a lot easier, but as the rear prop is already so short, and already has some fairly uncomfortable looking angles on the prop UJ i dont think the extra 2-3" would help prop longevity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscar03 Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 have a look at the rear brake drum set up on an MGB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Noisy Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 the issue there it the series brake is quite narrow, maybe 3.5-4" wide in total and actuated by a rod system, which is just pitiful to say the least. a decent "later" handbrake system would make life a lot easier, but as the rear prop is already so short, and already has some fairly uncomfortable looking angles on the prop UJ i dont think the extra 2-3" would help prop longevity. I see, said the blind man to his deaf dog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 have a look at the rear brake drum set up on an MGB Thanks, will do oscar I see, said the blind man to his deaf dog I am all for the simple, origional parts as far as possible mods, but sometimes it just makes life harder in the long run haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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