robertspark Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Hello, With regards to the top swivel pin, anyone hazard a guess what steel specification it is likely to be? I would say "mild steel", but if you were having one made, what would you ask for? Would you have it case hardened? Thanks in advance Yes I know you can buy them for buttons, but I'm doing something different, and given it's a fairly critical element, I thought I'd ask before asking for any old lump of iron to be machined up to my requirements. It will be of the STC226 variety with a hole in the middle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangy35 Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 I can't see that it is anything other than mild steel.........but like you said its a stab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 I think the standard ones are a good bit harder than ordinary mild steel I have made new ones out of en24T, I have just used it in it's machinable form I have not tried having it hardened after turning them. I didn't see the need and I've not had one fail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 As well as knowing the material you need to know what if any post-machining treatments it has received. [Example: I could take a steel-wire coathanger and heat-treat it to make it much-bendier-than-standard, or brittle-as-a-glass-rod] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoltan Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 I'm with Dan on EN24T, nice and tough yet machinable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 The proper ones are made from a cast which alters the ball game entirely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 Thanks very much all, much appreciated, EN24T(817M40 / ANSI 4340) it is. I was aware that the existing ones are cast, + there is no way to know what heat treatments they have had applied (unless someone passing works for a LR sub-contractor), I guess the problem I had (have) is I can't have one cast, and machining two up on a cnc seems the most logical thing to do.... hence not knowing what steel spec's or how to choose a steel spec, I didn't know where to start. I did think that maybe mild steel, with a case hardening applied (not hardened and or tempered) may be able to fit the bill.... but I'm no metallurgical specialist ... good with spannering, ok with welding (but wouldn't put my life on it), good with electronics & wiring, and excellent at computer aided design .. hence I know my limitations and am willing to admit them to ensure I don't put myself or anyone else at risk on what I thought was a critical component. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 If you're willing to sacrifice a standard one you could get the metallurgy analysed, I'm not sure how much detail they can go into but from memory they can come up with a useful spec for not very much money (this was from talking to my local CNC shop). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoltan Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 About £165 plus vat the last time we had a chemical analysis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 Find a scrap yard (probably a larger one) and ask if they have a Niton analyzer, and ask them to do a check. It takes about 30seconds and wil tell you the grade of steel you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studmuffin Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Good thought and I am no metallurgist but I think a Niton tells you what the metal is rather than the particular grade. At work, if we want a more specific guide for the grade we have full lab tests for chems, mechanicals, surface hardness tests etc.... . It aint cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 It tells you the grade as well, I use one occasoinally, wont tell you about heat treatments though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studmuffin Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Thanks. I didn't know that - its worth knowing. We have to fully certify all material, particularly for automotive customers ( you don't want a recall of all Ford Focus` on your toes , but that might be a good guide when we are identifying parts from different countries. Cheers Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B reg 90 Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Niton PMI guns are good, but can't tell you the carbon content, so are really only good with alloyed steels. If they have a good material library loaded they will give you a grade of material, however you may end up with a list of element with % composition figures. Then it is search material spec's to determine the likely candidate. If you do get it checked with a Niton gun make sure the sample is clean or you will get duff readings. Specifically, buff a clean surface with an aluminium oxide based buffing disk. Clean surface with alcohol (your finger prints can effect result if the machine is a high sensitivity version). Ask the gun user to disable the Aluminium detection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 You get the CEQ (Carbon equivalent) from the analysis though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troddenmasses Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 You get the CEQ (Carbon equivalent) from the analysis though. It's pretty terrible though, especially since the difference between grades of steel is tiny. The only way to be sure is to use a Leco analyser. If anybody knows what i'm talking about, you probably know me in real life :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Cast or not, they weld really nice. When I did my steering arms we didn't have any problem welding to them. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.