willy3539 Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 hi after searching every where I cant find the answer to my problem so im turning to you good people I was in first gear this morning about to drive off and I heard a bang and I lost all drive. I thought it must be a drive shaft and checked all was ok so I put in into diff lock hi / lo and nothing worked so I had to be recovered. so I have narrowed it down to the gearbox area when in the landy I can go into every gear clutch is normal feel to it and it engages every gear when I let it out I get a swirling small like grinding noise that gets faster and louder with every gear change. so In my mind clutch is ok as its selecting and going into gear but it wont drive something is spinning around but not engaging. through searching people are saying centre is out of the clutch or transfer box is goosed or main shaft ect but I need help in narrowing this down as ive read a few horror stories this morning that have similar but not the same indicators as mine. Its a landrover discovery 300 tdi 1995 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Moved to appropriate forum.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 I can advise but not 100% mind!!! I would drain the transfer box off and see what swarf comes out then take the back cover off so you can see the input splines, used to be a common problem but was resolved with a cross drilled input gear. Do that first then come back to us, the looking costs you nothing mote than an hour tops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alland Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 hi id say your splines have worn through it was a problem on earlier r380 gearboxes and lt77s esp if your in difflock and no drive ,my dad had a 1995 disco same happened and he put in difflock and it drove it was c/v joint on front axle i fear a new box is needed hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 +1 for the output shaft splines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willy3539 Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 OK THE PRIZE GOES TO ........... So I drained the oil and it came out brown and remove the circle end plate that's bolted on with 6-8 bolts my mate lay under neath while I got in started the jeep and put in gear let clutch out and the shaft end was turning erratically and I when up the gears it was like turning and stopping for a Millisecond then starting going fast then stopping then maybe starting slow ect so I take it that's the gear box goosed I have another complete box out of a 1998 that I picked up today for a bargain so question is can I just replace the transfer or is it better to do complete swap. And also when I have 1998 box out is there anything like seals or anything I should do while its sitting there and equally when I have other box out is there anything I should replace except clutch and fork, should i replace anything on other end as a guy told me that a new crankcase oil seal could leak worse than the one that's in place and he was a landy mechanic??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 If the splines have gone on the output shaft as I described above, then you need either a new gearbox or a new mainshaft to go in it. The transfer box doesn't need changing, only the input gear which can be done easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Bogmaster has a wicked sense of humour, changing the mainshaft is a complicated task, requiring essentially rebuilding the gearbox and the installation of new bearings, seals, ferro-asbestos seal etc,and setting up the pre-load on the bearings. For my money, unless you have access to a good workshop that has the special tools LR specify (and you will need them) buy a rebuilt box from Ashcroft and cross drill your input shaft on the transfer box to reduce the possibility of this happening again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Addendum. To cross drill the transfer box input gear, buy, obtain or borrow a 1 1/4" diameter brass bar about 12" long, turn it down to fit inside the gear - this is so you can hold the gear in a vice on the vertical drill stand you will be using and so it will be horizontal and you wont be gripping the face of the gears. Wrap the bearings with masking tape to ensure no metal filings get into them. You will be drilling through the gear in the area between the two sets of gears. Next using a Tungstan Carbide Masonry drill, re-sharpen it very carefully (No excess heat or the solder material will melt) to the same cutting profile of a metal drill, or buy a very expensive carbide metal drill about 3/8" diameter. Drill through the transfer box gear - slow speed lots of pressure with lots of coolant/lube, once your drill cuts through the outer case hardening the drill will go through the steel of the gear fairly easily until you hit the inner case hardening, same again and drill through the brass bar and right through the other side. Turn the gear 90 degrees and carry out the same exercise, run an old main shaft through it to remove any burs, clean it and bow it clean with an air pistol. Job done, remove the masking tape, wash the gear in solvent, re-oil the bearings and refit it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevie D Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 If the 98 is a late 300 tdi box then it shpoild bolt straight in - if it's from an early td5 then it's not a straight swat as the bell housings and inpur shafts are different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Addendum. To cross drill the transfer box input gear, buy, obtain or borrow a 1 1/4" diameter brass bar about 12" long, turn it down to fit inside the gear - this is so you can hold the gear in a vice on the vertical drill stand you will be using and so it will be horizontal and you wont be gripping the face of the gears. Wrap the bearings with masking tape to ensure no metal filings get into them. You will be drilling through the gear in the area between the two sets of gears. Next using a Tungstan Carbide Masonry drill, re-sharpen it very carefully (No excess heat or the solder material will melt) to the same cutting profile of a metal drill, or buy a very expensive carbide metal drill about 3/8" diameter. Drill through the transfer box gear - slow speed lots of pressure with lots of coolant/lube, once your drill cuts through the outer case hardening the drill will go through the steel of the gear fairly easily until you hit the inner case hardening, same again and drill through the brass bar and right through the other side. Turn the gear 90 degrees and carry out the same exercise, run an old main shaft through it to remove any burs, clean it and bow it clean with an air pistol. Job done, remove the masking tape, wash the gear in solvent, re-oil the bearings and refit it. Or you could just buy one ready done, for not much more than a standard part. Blue box ones are cheaper Recon main gearbox may be the way to go, you will need your old box for the exchange unit anyway unless you have another £250 knocking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alland Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 hi ive got a 200 tdi that jumps out of first gear now and again so ive bought a 1998 box with 97 k on it complete for 100 quid with transfer im going to change it completely new re inforced clutch fork and new borg and beck clutch not britpart .... hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 The problem with Pete3000 idea of just buying a new gear already cross drilled is that you will need to press on new bearings and fit their sleaves (or bearing cups, depending on your lingo) into the transfer box and then adjust with shims their pre-load to the required specification, using the original gear you negate the need to go through this by simply not altering the original set-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willy3539 Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 thanks for all the info I have got a 300 tdi 98 box so hopefully this has the cross drill gear in it should be fitted before weekend out along with new clutch hd fork and crankshaft seal but can someone please answer me one think WHY AGAIN TODAY DID MY LANDY PARTS MAN SAY IF IT AINT LEAKING DONT REPLACE CRANK SHAFT SEAL???????? to me if I don't do it and it starts leaking next week I aint guna take box out again just to do it please advise bewildered and confused???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 I'd agree with him, if it aint broken, dont replace it. Its behind the flywheel and if its not leaking dont mess with it. You have no reason to remove the flywheel. And you are missing the point here, the gear shaft to be cross drilled is in in the TRANSFER box, not the R380 gearbox. But while you are at it replace your clutch plate and thrust bearing. The gear we are refering to is the drive gear in the transfer box, it has internal splines that the external splines of the out-put shaft of the gearbox slides into. Cross drilling this gear supplies additional lubrication from the transfer box onto the output (gearbox) external splines and reduces the wear on them. To remove it (the transfer box gear) undo the circular plate at the end of the transfer box and the alloy bearing cage plate and slide out the gear-shaft, if it isnt cross drilled carry out the operation I described previously, if it is, happy days, either way, once removed replace the oil seal in the transfer box that goes onto the GEARBOX output shaft as an additional precaution against oil leaks as this may be damaged when you remove the gear shaft.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willy3539 Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 I got the gearbox adaptor plate made up from the rave. where does it bolt on to lift the gearbox up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willy3539 Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 okey dokie I worked out where the plate goes and its a brilliant job also I didn't need to touch engine mounts at all I took off gearbox support bar undone all lower bolts had pipes to radiator all off and viscous fan off and had a jack under box and lowered it and with a mirror when through were the gear levers come up to get at the top 3 bolts which wont be going back in. Thanks agin for all your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.