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galvanise axles


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I am planning to have my axles galvanised for my tray back and leave them un-painted as it's 50 quid to blast the pair and not a lot more to galvanise them.

I have welded on gwyn Lewis pans

The reason I was going to galvanise them is if I paint them it all comes off as soon as you hit the mud!

I was going to get the swivel housings done as well, has anyone had any experience in doing this? Also does anyone know the the threads sizes for the axle breathers and calipers?

If I go through with it I will post up results

O and any of the threads on the swivel housing to save me going through the hassle of working out what threads they are

Thanks

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Hi,

The caliper threads are M12 x 1.25.

The stub axle threads are standard M10 x...

Upper swivel pin are standard M10

Lower swivel pin are standard M8

Swivel ball to axle threads are also standard M10 x .....I'm guessing 1.5 without looking and checking.

Thanks

Steve

P.S. I look forward to the build thread!

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I will have to get a thread up done a lot already axle wise, the galvanise should be a fairly even coat and was planning on running a file over mating faces just to nock of any imperfection etc (lightly)

As to be honest minor minor uneven in the mating face won't be half as bad as how bent the front axle was before I got a new casing which was working fine although not quite the point! But come to think of it the rear stub and front chrome swivels are a tight fit into the casing a couple mm which I will need to sort.

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All good in principal however you may be surprised at how much metal is deposited, how uneven it can be deposited, how rough the surface finish can be and how frustrating it is to dress back when you need a better fit or finish. You can probably be reasonably tolerant to misalignment of the diff casing to the axle however alignment of the swivel at each end is a little more critical.

There are far more finished faces, journals and rebates on the swivel pin housing to fettle after galvanising which would lead me to question the benefit received from galvanising them.

I'm currently fettling galvanised bits of the ibex prior to painting - I've been amazed how hard and time consuming I've found dressing surfaces back when it's inappropriate to use an angle grinder or file. Emery paper etc looses its edge very quickly even using DA sander.

Think you might get away with the axles and brake back plates but you're going to spend a lot of time at the bench fettling the rest I fear.

Rob

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I'm thinking of getting my axles galvanised. What I am planning on doing is getting them hot zinc sprayed, rather than dipped. As it's not an immersive process the risk of getting zinc in the wrong place is much lower. I was going to make up plywood covers for the various flanges, deep enough to cover the studs, and bolt them in place with a threaded rod through the axle, with a hook to the cover where the diff was.

The hot zinc makes a great surface for powder coating, so I'll be getting that done too.

G.

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Hi,

The caliper threads are M12 x 1.25.

The stub axle threads are standard M10 x...

Upper swivel pin are standard M10

Lower swivel pin are standard M8

Swivel ball to axle threads are also standard M10 x .....I'm guessing 1.5 without looking and checking.

Thanks

Steve

P.S. I look forward to the build thread!

Standard pitch M10 is 1.5mm Steve :).

I'm planning on ganvanising my axles during the rebuild, but I can't decide what to do with the diff studs. If I leave them out, the holes are likely to get filled, if I leave them in I may not be able to knock them out? Has anyone done it before? The mating face of diff/axle and stubs/axle will be easy enough to clean up.

I hadn't thought about doing the swiwels.... they are likely to be a total pain in the arse with the number of holes etc in them. That and they are cast... would the galv process affect them?

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