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Clutch bite point high, not mechanical.


Ratty43

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Put this in International since clutches are roughly the same throughout but it's on my Defender.

The bite point on my clutch is so high that pressing it half an inch is enough to make it slip. I first thought the clutch was badly worn so this weekend I replaced it with a new genuine LR kit (and hd fork). I wasn't best pleased to find a barely worn AP clutch in there but changed it anyway. The bite point seemed a little lower when I first started off but quickly returned to the top again. Next up I found Western's post on adjusting the pedal. It was as it should be but I wound the nuts on the push rod until it was at maximum adjustment just to see what happened. That has given me about half an inch free play at the pedal but as soon as that's taken up the bite point is the same as before.

All that seems to suggest that my fault isn't mechanical so it must be hydraulic. Anyone got any pointers as to what in the hydraulic system could cause it?

Thanks in advance.

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If the gasket has been replaced with instant gasket or if there was a damper plate bracket then the clutch will be higher. I removed the damper on the disco as I thought it was faulty and noticed that the pedal was higher, after all 2-3mm of spacer is a reasonable chunk of pedal movement.

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Open the bleed nipple on the slave and see if any fluid comes out indicating there is hydraulic pressure there holding the clutch slightly. Might be a faulty master cylinder not letting fluid back or I know you say it's not mechanical but is it definitely not the release bearing not moving back on the splines properly?

I think Bill had a recent and unusual thing going on with a flexi pipe that might be worth a look. I have never seen it myself where delamination causes a one way valve effect but that's a good thing with forums bringing knowledge like that together.

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With the slave off the release moves easily away from the clutch. However I noticed today that it takes a reasonable amount of pressure to move the cylinder back and as soon as it's released. Definitely under pressure so looks like the master is at fault.

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Thanks to all who responded. Fitted a new Delphi master cylinder today and the bite point is now about half way up. I'm still surprised at how powerful the spring in the slave is. It managed to pop the piston out giving me a face full of fluid. While in pieces I checked it and there's no sign of wear to the bore.

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Well it seems to have worked for me although I'll wait a day or two to make sure it isn't just a fluke. £45 (I know I could have got it cheaper but getting one locally at least sorted it quickly) I could have done without on top of buying the unnecessary clutch kit but that said at least I know that side of it should e good for a fair while to come.

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Ratty, it's always a good idea to change clutch slave and master cylinder together as the increased pressure from the new master cylinder soon sees off a part worn slave.

Usually at the most inconvenient time and place ;)

Mo

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Fair point but it's a new cap with the new cylinder and the bite point remains the same. As a matter of interest my Mrs says the bite point was about halfway up when she drove it first in October. I hadn't noticed it until she pointed it out the other day. It's obviously been a slow development.

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