Guest MJG Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 Daughters boy friend has a chance of a Defender (J reg) that has failed it's MOT. Cited reason - rear cross member corrosion..... Defender price = £200. Defender Mileage ???? does it really matter. How hard can it be????? Any pics, links or advice appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 Buy a rear crossmember with extensions - these are by far easier to fit than just the crossmember - you'll probably find that the ends of the chassis legs are quite corroded inside as well. The new extensions are designed to slot over the chassis where it's been cut off, so carefully measure before cutting. The wiring loom is inside the chassis on the drivers side, and it's likely that it'll get burned when the chassis is welded. The wiring enters the chassis in the engine bay - almost opposite the fuel pump, and exits just short of the rear crossmember. I recommend unplugging the wiring, and pulling it out of the chassis - it can be cable tied to the chassis rail once the job is done. It'll make things easier if you remove the rear silencer as well. There are 10 x 13mm head bolts that connect the rear body below the door, to the crossmember. Undo all except one at either end, which for now should just be loostened. Cut through both chassis legs with a disc cutter or whatever you use, then get an assistant to help, remove the two remaing bolts and lift the crossmember away. If the vehicle is a 110, then the fuel tank has to be removed as well, which is always good for a laugh A new crossmember should only set you back around £110 - some are real bad quality though. 110 - good fit 90 - really carp fit Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 dont forget not to weld it on 15mm out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjojjas Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 Mines here: http://www.jojas.co.uk/rear_cross_member.htm Its pretty straight forward if you can weld. I took my time, worked by myself, and fixed a few other things as I found them. Took me a weekend. Jas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 dont forget not to weld it on 15mm out Only on the drivers side - the other side was only 5mm. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 Only on the drivers side - the other side was only 5mm.Les. Pure LR tolerances then Les!!! B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 For £200, if the rest is good then its a bargin even if you pay someone to swap the x-member for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 Just a thought - how bad is the corrosion? Maybe it's worthwhile repairing, rather than replacing? Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 dont forget not to weld it on 15mm out then, ......a few secs later it dawned on me..................... Your a cruel man Tonk ........... ................................. so very cruel Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 anyone care to explain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 anyone care to explain? I did extensive repairs to catflap, including new reinforced crossemember - outriggers, etc etc. Put the newly sprayed body, wings, front panel, screen, roof, etc - all looked lovely and shiny. Went to fit the new doors and the hole on the drivers side was too narrow. I had to remove all the bodywork again in order to measure and ascertain where I had gone wrong. I had welded the rear crossmember on in the wrong position, so had to cut it off. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 Surely it would have been easier to run a grinder round the inside of the door aperture than than do the crossmember again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjojjas Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 I think I may have exploded all over the garage if that was me...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 hehe sounds like a proper mistake to me Les, none of these nambypamby fiting lights upside down mistakes for real mechanics eh? thanx for the info its made me smile as i could imagine how joyful at doing it all again i would be in that situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 I did extensive repairs to catflap, including new reinforced crossemember - outriggers, etc etc. Put the newly sprayed body, wings, front panel, screen, roof, etc - all looked lovely and shiny. Went to fit the new doors and the hole on the drivers side was too narrow. I had to remove all the bodywork again in order to measure and ascertain where I had gone wrong. I had welded the rear crossmember on in the wrong position, so had to cut it off. Les. Jeepers thats an experience I hope never to have almost as frustrating as not setting/checking the spill timing on a series 3 whilst the engine was out of the vehicle. only when we had to set it again (properly) with the engine back in did I feel the pain..... removing that fricking allan screw (about 10 times) from under the engine, setting the drive shaft for the pump to the correct angle and then trying to line up the recess in the shaft for the alan screw to drop in (with a mirror and a torch)...... boy did I wish I had set it correctly when it was on the garage floor.... has anyone else out there shared that particular pain? G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manic Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 hi , can you recommend a good cross member please ? need to do mine . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjojjas Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 hi , can you recommend a good cross member please ? need to do mine . I'm not sure "good" is the phrase I'd use, but mines a typical britpart one from paddocks. With 16 years experience of welding motors (some in the trade) I'm always taken by suprise when a panel is an exact fit. I'd expect to "jiggle" most panels and the crossmember was no different...... Mind, I can be a bit picky sometimes.... Jas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 The two crossmembers I have shown both came from Bearmach within a fortnight of each other. I would have thought that they would get their chassis parts from the same supplier, but perhaps not. It seems to be a bit of a lottery as to whether or not you get a decent crossmember. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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