Mean Green Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Hi, Sorry if this has been covered before - I tried a search but it came up with nothing. I am considering purchasing a 2002 pre-facelift D2 Td5 GS, which I understand will have ACE fitted. At the moment I know very little about the vehicle but want to do my homework. I have known a few Discos of the same age that have developed ACE faults which are both pricey and a PITA to fix so I am just wondering what needs to be done? If it were to develop ACE issues what is involved in removing it? Can it just be ignored or 'unplugged' and will it still drive ok? and more importantly safely? Is there anyway to test or check the system before I bought it? Or tell tale signs that it is either on its way out or has been fixed in the past? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Ours leaks, and the steel pipes are stuck in the valve block. But a second hand block wasn't mega money and the hoses are available. I expect the main way they fail is rusting pipes loosing the oil and it not being topped up, so the pump fries? I'd try and keep it working. Because it does seem to do what is required in this top heavy 4x4. I'd say if it has been repaired with new pipes, you're most of the way to a reliable system? My guess is that if you remove it all, it turns back into a range rover classic with a steel roof rack I've heard gossip that it's a safety feature? So maybe it is an MOT thing? Or worse still, in a couple of years it will become an MOT thing. I'd keep all the oily bits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave88sw Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 I've removed a few following owners instructions, i would say it's a shame to remove it because it is an effective system when working correctly. The only problems i've ever come across have been leaking pipes (that's not to say other parts dont fail but its not as common). The pipes are expensive but not as expensive as 2 new non ace anti roll bars and links and the idler etc required. As regards what is needed: Front and rear non-ace anti roll bar New ARB links Idler pulley to replace ACE pump Block reservoir pipe join 2 wires at ace ecu (cant remember the pin numbers but the information is easily found with a google search, this is one of the few jobs a scotch lock is acceptable for as if you ever wanted to reinstate the ace you can remove it easily.) The alternative to this is finding someone with the correct diagnostic equipment to switch the ace off, a friend of mine with Land Rover test book says he cant do it and the only version he knows of that will do it is autologic although i think the nanocom can do it. Hope that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Almost there,except the links are the same - no need to change them.But the arb to chassis bushes need changing,cheap enough anyway.Testbook wont change from ACE to non ACE,but as you say Autologic will if you don't want to link the ecu plug wires 11 and 36. Even when towing large trailers on rough roads most owners feel no real difference with it removed,,plus you can always slow down a bit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave88sw Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 links may be the same but ace only has a link one side (the ram is the other side) so you need a pair at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 Have another look.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave88sw Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 i take it all back... as you were Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Hi Greg Just to say, best thing is (when viewing) to carefully inspect the pipes on the chassis as they route through the front wheel well. That's where they corrode. I've heard of people trying to wire brush them only to brush through the rust and burst the pipe. Having said that, they can be fairly rusty just in that area but still quite solid. I filed the rust off mine, painted and waxoyled. Here's a cheap and easy fix though: Once you find one with decent pipes I'd be more concerned with rear chassis corrosion and body leaks. F'ing body leaks! George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
para7 Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Cracking vid mate. Mine are currently leaking just under the drivers door where they cross over the chassis. By cutting the pipe are you likely to loose all the fluid and is it fairly simple to bleed the system after? Cheers Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zardos Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 I recently talk to my local independant about ACE removal as he has done a few and he said that the Front and rear non-ace anti roll bars are no longer manufacturer and are difficult to get hold of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Mark, I don't know about bleeding the system or how much fluid is lost, sorry mate. Greg (and Zardos); http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/ace-removal-kit-d2-p-19751.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
para7 Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 CHEERS BUDDY ONLY ONE WAY TO FIND OUT.WILL LET YOU KNOW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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