IanT90 Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Another issue with my recently aquired Defender. Its been some while since my old SIIA and I have fond memorys of struggling with gear selection (specially on 2nd) but got use to it and it wasn't a problem. I also use to have a SIII dont remember that being too bad either! However, I was expecting better from a Defender (even if it is 19 years old). Sadly its not good, 2nd crunches unless I get the revs right and 4th is a pig to get in. The others are okay-ish and can live with. Dont think its the clutch, as the gears go in fine on idle and no slippage when driving. Selecting 1st, 3rd, 5th and reverse are not a problem, Just 2nd and 4th. Maybe a stupid question but bear with me, its been 15 years since my last Land Rover and been driving noddy cars inbetween . Is this normal or do I have a problem with the gearbox or even the selectors in the transfer box ? I am planning a long slow renovation (labour of love) during my twighlight years, so I am expecting to replace major parts. However, dont want to change both the gearbox and transfer box at this stage if I dont need to. Any suggestions or recommendations ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 My advice is to change the main and transfer box oils and remember that although your current Defender might be younger than your Series it won't like racing gear changes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted July 2, 2014 Author Share Posted July 2, 2014 Thanks for the advice regarding the oil don't know when it was last changed so needs doing. I know what you mean about gear changing, having driven modern saloon cars for a while its taken time to re-adjust again to Land Rover gears. Read a couple of pointers on internet regarding the specific gears I have problems with i.e 1. Using sealant on gearbox bell housing surface leads to a blocked core plug ?, this forcing hyraulic pressure inward making these gear selections difficult. 2. Worn turret housing, around selector fork springs again seems to primarily affect same gears I am having problems with. 3. Alignment of selector springs may require adjusting, to optmise position of fork during gear selection. Anyway if oil does not resolve it, I have other possible areas to look at. If there are any other possible suggestions or recommendations out there i am always willing to learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 The LT77 & R380 especially seem sensitive to oil - some claim great results from expensive synthetics, others claim it makes everything awful. Certainly on any new-to-you Land Rover I would be changing ALL the fluids and greasing EVERYTHING (in fact, doing a full & thorough service) as a 1st stop before anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted July 2, 2014 Author Share Posted July 2, 2014 The more I read the more I am convinced I need oil change. MTF94 seems to be the popular choice so probably go with that. The gearbox R380 I believe takes about 2.7 litres any idea how much the transfer box takes ? Planning to get 5 litres anyway so hopefully that will be enough, but would like to know for future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Transfer box uses ep90 pr similar... Not mtf! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted July 2, 2014 Author Share Posted July 2, 2014 Thanks for that would have put MTF in transfer box too any idea how much it takes roughly ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 IIRC the transfer box needs somewhere around 2.5 litres. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 It's as if the manual hadn't been written... Factory 'RAVE' manuals, free download, pinned at the top of the part numbers forum AND I REALLY WISH THE MODS WOULD PIN IT TO THE TOP OF EVERY FORUM hint hint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 2nd crunches in a lot of R380s. It's what they do. The problem with 4th may be the gear stick bias springs aren't correctly centred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 It's as if the manual hadn't been written... Factory 'RAVE' manuals, free download, pinned at the top of the part numbers forum AND I REALLY WISH THE MODS WOULD PIN IT TO THE TOP OF EVERY FORUM hint hint. You dig out the links, start a new thread in here and I'll pin it, that way we both attain that warm glow of achievement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 I had a 94 300tdi many years ago that was awful to get into 2nd from cold and used to crunch slightly. Fresh MTF94 transformed the gearbox - it was as if a different box had been fitted. It is also worth ten minutes to adjust the bias springs so the shifter centres itself correctly. The turret can wear around the two pins and can cause difficulty in selecting gears. I've had quite a few defender r380s apart over the years and only one of them has had a worn plastic insert socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 Been driving it now for just under a week and just starting to get use to the gears again. Noticed when I first set off 2nd is not too bad, but after driving for a while it gets worse which suggests oil warming up and viscosity changing. So definate oil change is first priority. I have also noticed after driving for a while 3rd starts to get a bit notchy again more evidence it is oil related. As for 4th it seems to go in okay when I get the gear stick position right, so need to look for wear on the gear stick turret housing as suggested. It may require slight adjustment of springs ! but unlikely though as 3rd seems okay seems to be well aligned so more likely wear on the turret . Thanks for all the help and advice feel confident now that its not a major problem, at least I dont need to look at getting a replacement box Phew !!! Just 101 other jobs to sort now happy days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jode Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 The 380 requires synthetic oil - MTF94 is fully-synthetic, GL4 gear oil. Other manufacturers can provide an acceptable alternative, but make sure that the viscosity figures match up (the spec sheet for MTF94 is attached here). Adjusting the bias springs is dead easy and really makes the gear change easier. If you don't have an lr workshop manual for your vehicle you'll find several sources on the internet, or you could buy a paines manual (although these come in for quite a bit of criticism) or a RAVE cd. Caltex MTF-94.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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