Challo Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 Hi, the following is not Land Rover related so feel free to delete. I am currently fitting a PSA XU7D Engine into a Citroen Dispatch (gotta 110 Defender also). It originally had a DW8 engine (basically newer version of N/A XUD with emmisions and basic ECU) but that died. I didn't want to replace with another DW8 as i find them sluggish and thirsty. Well its certainly been challenging installing the XUD as it came from a Citroen BX! Have had to fabricate engine mounts, acquire and fabricate mounts for a belt driven vacuum pump. Clock turbo to clear steering rack. Fabricate a hybrid power steering and alternator system from various cars. Motivation was that a few people have said it can't be done. Me being an awkward Sod had to prove em wrong. Got the thing going at the weekend but it won't stop.Have to strangle or stall it to stop. I have a new stop solenoid on the way, and this is where i need help. Obviously the wiring loom is a mutation and i am not too familiar how stop solenoids operate. Finally the question... The feed to the stop solenoid, does 12V supply cut fuel or lack of 12 V supply cut the fuel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 Solenoids are normally fail safe so removing the 12v will disengage / deactivate it ( 12v applied allows fuel flow, remove 12v stops fuel flow and shuts off the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challo Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 Thank you Robert. So I basically need to locate an ignition fed live? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean f Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 You should be able to test the solenoid you already have, with the ignition on (but engine off) disconnect the wire to it, there should be a click or thunk as it closes, depending on were it is and the background noise this might not be to easy to hear. You maybe able to try this with the engine running, disconnect the wire and the engine should stop, if this is possible depends on if you can get to the wire safely and obviously if it doesn't stop then you are back to stalling the engine to stop it. Also check the wire to it, again it should be live with the ignition on but not with the ignition on, if it is then suspect the solenoid if it is permenatnly live then you will need to rewire it to an ignition live. I have no knowledge of the engine you are working with so now easy this is to do I have no idea, depends on how accessable the solenoid is. I have seen solenoids get stick due to standing around for a long time and stick either on or off particularly if there may have been some water contamination at some time, in the short term they can sometimes be freed up but longer term and for reliability its best to change them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 If its the XUD engine the solenoid is on top of the pump. single wire 12v to make it start. Assuming there is a wire on it in the first place that must have 12v on it or the engine shouldn't start. Remove the 12v it should stop. sean f is spot on above but also if the engine wont stop its possible that someone has removed the steel pin from inside the solenoid - thats why it might be starting ok. Lastly solenoids need a reasonable 12V to activate but only a few volts will hold them open. With improvised wiring you might have a wire that does not drop to zero when you turn off the key. Alternator wirning light can supply enough current to keep it open etc. Try pulling the wire - does the engine stop? HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challo Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 Thanks for the replies. It has a lucas fuel pump and solenoid is on top, so easily accessible. I removed the solenoid and the plastic pin dropped out. It has a very thin cable originating from the cold start assembly. On Sunday out of curiosity, I tried starting it without any electrical supply and behold it started. This is probably due to the pin being damaged. I'll try and locate a ignition live or maybe the feed from the alternator. Again many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 i had this wiring issue wiring my 200tdi into my petrol discovery. on every car i've ever worked on there are 2 ignition fed lives from the back of the ignition switch. the one you want however stays live when cranking. use anything else and you wont be able to start it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challo Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 Cheers qwackers. Hadn't thought of that. Much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markyboy Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 i had this wiring issue wiring my 200tdi into my petrol discovery. on every car i've ever worked on there are 2 ignition fed lives from the back of the ignition switch. the one you want however stays live when cranking. use anything else and you wont be able to start it... I just used the coil feed when I did this conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 that works fine if you have a coil to take the feed off. mine was a mpi so i had a mems ecu to rip out which left me with no coilpack feed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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