soakes94 Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 So I currently have late Series 3 early 90 doors fitted (spit kind) with anti burst locks. However all my doors have different locks and my petrol cap has another so just now I have 5 keys to open and start my car. I want to be able to install central locking into my car so I don't have to freeze or get soaking trying to open all the doors! No if I install locks like these can I install central locking (I think I can with the basic eBay kits?) and how will it fit my doors? Guessing I will need to cut a hole for the lock to come through the panel? And then just some trial and error to make it work? If anyone has photos or links to a How to page that would be great! Thanks Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 would be easier to just change the lock barrels to use one key. like this set for example http://www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk/lock-and-key-set-mtc6506.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soakes94 Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share Posted January 21, 2015 Is there a way to install central locking with that though? It's the kind of locks where a bit of metal swings down and stops the handle from lifting. So can't be moved without a key inside and what im really looking for is central locking for the car to save me time and wet hair! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 a friend fitted a central locking system to his 127 crew cab a few years ago with similar lift up door handles, so Yes it can be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Is there a way to install central locking with that though? It's the kind of locks where a bit of metal swings down and stops the handle from lifting. So can't be moved without a key inside and what im really looking for is central locking for the car to save me time and wet hair! It should be possible - normally on the aftermarket kits you have a rod that you strap to the existing locking rod that goes between the handle and the poppy uppy downy lock bit by the window - the solenoid just simulates pulling or pushing that. If you attached the rod to the bit that swings (maybe with a hole drilled in and a dogleg in the rod, or a bolt through with a hole in it) you should be able to make it work - it may take some trial and error with the angles of the rod / solenoid / attachment points though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soakes94 Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share Posted January 21, 2015 I currently have these handles fitted http://www.paddockspares.com/337802-door-handle-with-lock-lh.html?___SID=U I'm guessing I would have to change them to the handles like the back door so I can switch the lock on and off? Thanks Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 That's a good point - you can't move the locking mechanism without the key in on the lift up handles can you? Do the back door handles fit the lift up fronts? If so then there's one of the models that already has the rods attached for use with central locking.. Western - one of the manufacturers (SPLandrovers) makes a kit that replaces the ignition lock as well - so you have 1 key that does the ignition, doors and fuel filler cap. I just fitted a set to the 110, seems to work fine. Their website seems to be down now, google cache to the rescue: http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:http://www.splandrovers.com/QRF100880_DEFENDER_IGNITION_LOCK_SET_p/qrf100880-4.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soakes94 Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share Posted January 21, 2015 Nope the locking mechanism can't move without the key being there. I can't be sure, I know when you lift the outside of the handle the inside lifts up so I'm guessing it works the other way as well. I think the handles need to be like the ones on the rear door so it has the little catch for me to switch on and off (lock and unlock) and then I can attach the central locking to that? Does that seem right? I think Im looking for this? Thanks S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=65009#entry560998 May give you some help - not sure if the rear locks will fit the front though? For the anti-burst ones you linked, you'd have to fabricate something to flick the little lever up and down, yep.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soakes94 Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share Posted January 21, 2015 That's fine for the fabricating I like a challenge!! I can't wait to have central locking!! People love to laugh at me when I'm trying to find the right key in the dark and trying to get it in the actual lock! And then if it's raining and it's -1 outside your lock freezes and you can't get in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 My friend just fitted dead bolts to the central locking and never used the keys to lock the doors unless he was leaving it a while... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soakes94 Posted January 22, 2015 Author Share Posted January 22, 2015 So after some more googling last night I found this page! While it doesn't tell me how to install central locking onto these locks it tells me at least how to fit them! After that its just some messing around with the solenoids and bits of metal to get it all to line up! Thankfully electrics are my strong point so that side of it all doesn't phase me! Now all I need is for it to pass its MOT on Monday and Im sorted! The new door locks and central locking can be a well done for it passing its MOT so heres hoping it passes! S And I have just found this which makes me think it should be somewhat simple... Im sure I will regret saying that when Im trying to fit them mind you! S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 That's a good point - you can't move the locking mechanism without the key in on the lift up handles can you?Do the back door handles fit the lift up fronts? If so then there's one of the models that already has the rods attached for use with central locking..Western - one of the manufacturers (SPLandrovers) makes a kit that replaces the ignition lock as well - so you have 1 key that does the ignition, doors and fuel filler cap. I just fitted a set to the 110, seems to work fine. Their website seems to be down now, google cache to the rescue:http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:http://www.splandrovers.com/QRF100880_DEFENDER_IGNITION_LOCK_SET_p/qrf100880-4.htm I bought one of those lock sets and returned it, the ignition is alright but the "matched door locks" are not a factory matched set, they are all random unmatched ones which are matched afterwards to the ignition by inserting they key then grinding down any of the pins protruding to the same height. This results in some or all of the pins not protruding the correct height on each side - one of the lock barrels I was supplied with only had one full height pin out of five to hold it in position. I returned them and bought a genuine landrover td5/tdci set, rather more expensive but of far better quality with locks that are not liable to fall out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 I bought one of those lock sets and returned it, the ignition is alright but the "matched door locks" are not a factory matched set, they are all random unmatched ones which are matched afterwards to the ignition by inserting they key then grinding down any of the pins protruding to the same height. This results in some or all of the pins not protruding the correct height on each side - one of the lock barrels I was supplied with only had one full height pin out of five to hold it in position. I bought a set, I've not noticed any issues with it, seemed OK to me but the 110 is laid up at the moment and not in general use!! I'll have a look at it later and see if it's the same... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 I did pretty much this on my first 110 - but for different reasons. All my locks were so worn that they would open with any key. I drilled a hole in each of the locking tabs then connected them central locking actuators with a bit of bent coat hanger wire. I can't recall what I bolted the actuators to - but at the time I had no facilities, so it must have been simple. I filled the lock keyholes with epoxy so you couldn't use a key at all. Just in case the remote or controller failed, I drilled two holes through the floor and connected one actuator in parallel to two bolts with insulating washers, bolted through the floor. I could lock or unlock by connecting 12v & earth between the protruding ends of the two bolts. Turned out I never needed this though, the whole thing was more reliable than the original keys! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soakes94 Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 So its all ordered and should be here tomorrow I hope! My only question is does anyone know what size of hole I need to drill in my door for the locks? The last thing I want todo is get ready to fit my locks and then find out I don't have the right size of drill! Since its probably an hours round trip to screwfix and back assuming they have the right size! S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soakes94 Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 So I have made some progress, I have all the wiring in place for the central locking, and have started to fit the drivers door anti burst stuff. I have the door lock fitted and it all seems to work fine (19/20mm hole for the lock if anyone was wondering). My problem though seems to be getting the door to actually shut and lock and then open again! I can get the door to close enough to half engage the lock but its not enough to actually lock the door. If I slam the door properly I then can lock the door but opening it involves a hand through the window and a hefty pull on the whole door! Im hoping someone can tell me what I'm doing wrong, I think its the height of the striker or the depth but I can't seem to get it right, I have moved the striker right up the edge of the door and moved it back and have moved it up and down and just don't seem to win! Can anyone help? I spent about 4 hours today trying to get it to work and still haven't won! Stopping for dinner now and heading out again tonight to try and get it to work since I need to drive tomorrow and while the old locks weren't great they're better than no door locks! Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 Have you tried spacing the striker outwards with shims. The way I do it is to first set the striker height- align the striker by almost closing the door and lining it up height wise by eye; now with the striker at the correct height and all the way outwards to the the door seal the door should close easily and but not seal properly. If it still won't close properly add two shims to the striker and try again, you can normally feel it catching slightly or rubbing - there should be no rubbing or resistance felt until the latch part of the lock contacts the striker pin. With the window wound down and the seat forwards you can see the striker and whether you need to add or remove shims. Once the height and shims are set then you move the striker inwards to create the seal, will take a few goes, you want a nice tight seal but if it is moved too far in the door won't latch fully and also it stresses the tub door pillar. If you are using non genuine door seals they are usually too hard and this means the striker has to be further outwards as the door cannot compress the rubber fully and this also puts stress on the tub leading to cracking around the striker, however I recently spent £110 on two genuine LR door seals and they are still quite hard compared to my other 90. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soakes94 Posted January 30, 2015 Author Share Posted January 30, 2015 Im back to work today so won't have a chance to fiddle until Sunday/Monday, I can get the doors to lock and engage properly with a hefty slam. I have noticed that the drivers door is now sealing all the way around and the rain and wind doesn't come in anymore which is nice but it does take a good slam! Passagier door still needs work but it will work for now so I'm getting there but think its just going to be trial and error until it works I think! Then I need to connect up the central locking... S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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