Monster Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Hi Guys, I have a 110 chassis that i hope to use for my build. It is in great shape except..... There is a dent in the front crossmember where it was driven into a post! I was hoping to cut it off and fit a front crossmember on it, but seems no one makes any!? Despite the dent, which is slightly to the side of middle, everything from the front spring mounts back, seem fine. The dumb irons have started to look inwards which is understandable. Welding up the chassis shouldnt be a problem but was wondering what your thoughts are on how to proceed. (I cant afford a new chassis). Could a series crossmember be grafted on it? These seem readily available. Or do i remove the bent crossmember and fabricate a new one. Altimately, do you think this chassis is saveable? How can i check alignment? Any thoughts or pointers would be great. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 The workshop manual has all the chassis dimensions available so you can jig it. I would do this before you do anything else. The front crossmember and dumb irons aren't particularly complex and would be fairly straight forward to fabricate alternatively you could use a peice of box section to replace the cross member. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Monster. .. where are you roughly? ?... in about six weeks time I will be cutting up my chassis to ensure its disposed of. .. I could save the section needed. ... although I haven't studied it to see what state it's in.... For info I'm in Dorset. .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Ps. It's a 90 chassis but dimensions are the same. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 I've done terrible things to my RRC classic chassis. The hydraulic pump is where the cross member should be! As long as it has the structural strength it'll be fine. Most important bit will be to check for creases on the insides of the chassis rails. That metal that has moved to let the legs point inward will probably pop back when you release the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monster Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 Pic didnt upload for some reason. Manual doesnt give an diagonal measurements as far as i can see. It might be a parellelagram! Thanks for the input guys. Thinking about it, i have a spare RR gearbox crossmember. Maybe i will weld that in place! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 this info might help. from my thatcham chassis repair book for Defender Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 I'd be tempted to try a jack between the rails with some heat and see if the worst could be dressed out then possible plated to reinforce if considered week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 If it were mine I would weld a long thread in the deep dent, use a very thick "U" section with a hole drilled to suit the long thread, and then heat the box section and pull it out to the correct dimensions. After it is corrected stitch weld a stiffening angle in case the box section has been softened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 I'd cut the front face off plus the top and the bottom plates. Push the back flat, hammer the top and bottom flat before welding them back on and fit a new front face from sheet. Keeping the back face in place means I would know the exact original widths. This is my normal MO of weakening a structure so I can push / beat it back into shape while keeping the positions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 Pic didnt upload for some reason.Manual doesnt give an diagonal measurements as far as i can see. It might be a parellelagram! Thanks for the input guys. You don't need factory measurement, just pick two points on each leg one at each end and the same each side and measure diagonally. Both diagonals should be the same else knackered! Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monster Posted March 7, 2015 Author Share Posted March 7, 2015 I have been looking at a Range Rover chassis year 80 - 90 I think. It has a good front crossmember. Could this be grafted on to the 110 chassis? I thought i read somewhere that the RR and defender chassis are made differently. (The 110 is a TD5 chassis). Would i need to modify the RR front to accept a 110 bumper? I am not concerned by the jack points. I normally lift by the axle anyway. I can easily add the misc small brackets quite easily. How best to join them together? Butt each end and then add strengthing sheets down the side? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 RRC chassis photo here, front cross member looks wider & has 2 angled gusset on front face to chassis, 90/110 only have 2 on rear face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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