Shock absorber bush replacement - can road wheel stay on ?

[IanT90]

I have another little task as part of my MOT failure list. Replacement of worn rear shock absorber bushes.

May sound lazy but do I need to remove the road wheels to take the shock absorbers off ?

I know it makes access easier but have the front end up on my axle stands while I work on the steering box and drag link section. Still waiting for box to arrive so stuck at the moment.

I could use my trolley jack and remove the wheel but don't like working on vehicles with just a trolley jack bad practice.

So was wondering if I can remove the shock's while sat on the road wheels, replace the bushes and refit ?

Any comments recommendations ?

[muddy]

Yep perfectly possible without removing the wheels depending on what you have, ie some wide tyres with not much offset Will make the job harder.

Will.

[IanT90]

Well access not a problem and top bolt came off without ease it oil too. The bottom bolt is another matter the whole shock turns when I try to undo the nut, there does not appear there is anything to lock the shock in position with like a spanner etc

Any clues ?

[Retroanaconda]

Stilsons or chain wrench through the spring (might have to jack the vehicle up to open the coils a bit) to stop it turning. Try and use something to protect the shock.

I have resorted to cutting the nut/stud off the shock and then welding a new one on in the past. Obviously only necessary if you are not replacing the whole thing.

[GW8IZR]

If you have some nylon webbing like a ratchet strap or recovery strop, take it twice round the shock and twist it with a bar to tighten.

It will grip better than anything else and not damage the shock.

HTH

[western]

the bottom end of the bottom pin there should be 2 flats to slide a spanner on, to hold the damper body while the securing nut is undone or tightened.

[IanT90]

Hey presto got the begger off next problem the top bush inner collar was siezed on. Got that off with heat and wd40.

Maybe I am missing something but how the hell do I get the new top bush in ?

How do I get it through the narrow section in the middle

Only replaced ones on cars which had a shallow taper and easily drifted in with a rubber Mallet.

Any ideas !

[Retroanaconda]

Oooh rear shocks, missed that bit!

I managed to change the top bushes once using washing up liquid and a vice, but it was tough going.

[Les Henson]

The top bush is waisted, so cut it in half and put half either side.

Les

[IanT90]

Took the advice and used vice with washing up liquid and although tricky managed to get it in. However, one face was flush and the other was sticking proud.

So as not to be beaten I found a large jubilee clip and closed it so it sat on the rim of the shock allowing the flush face of the bush to be free to move. I put it back in the vice and with a liberal coating of washing up liquid tightened the vice again, bit fiddley trying to keep the round clip in place to begin with but eventually got it cenral and hey presto it pushed the bush through the vacant space in the jubilee clip and was perfectly seated in position with equal ditribution either side of the shock.

I think for most people the solution Les gave is far simpler and makes sence, but it did give me a stupid sence of self satisfaction to know I managed it in one section.

I wont feel as daunted now doing the other side but will lok for something a little less Heath Robinson next time other than a Jubilee clip. I just need to finding a metal ring of the right diameter in my odds and sods collection and job will be easier next time.

Thanks again for all ther help and support.

On to my last job before my MOT re-test, replacing my old leaking steering box with a refurbished unit. Just got to get myself a new drop arm not a lot of price differance between a new unit and getting local LR garage to remove the old one so no brainer. Oh well here is to fighting with siezed bolts and transmission fluid dripping everywhere.