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Door rebuild - glass channels


IanT90

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Just in the process of replacing my front doors , the drivers side I bought is a second hand one, but in really good condition but bare. The passenger side is brand new one also bare.

As the last time I did any work on doors it was on my old series 2A. I am planning to fit most of the parts new and have been ordering like crazy, but thought I might get away with using some of the parts off my original doors ie push rods, channel fillers.

Before I start to dis-assemble I would like a bit of background on the door glass channel set-up. I looked on the parts listing and in my workshop manual but not very clear.

The actual door channels with inner felt lining screw in, I have found the screws no problem (well not a problem yet, till I try to get them out). What isn't specified is how long to cut the new sections that pass inside the door and how do they secur inside the door ?

The old ones have perished and rotted away so can not use them !

The other question is how are the channel fillers held in place ? are they just held in place by the door channels and there retaining screws ? (I have been warned, that the plastic corner sections can be brittle).

Last question - The parts diagram shows shim's which are fitted along the sides, presumably to pad out the door channels. Has anyone fitted these shims in the past are they really necessary?

Thanks ian

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I've just done this too mine!

The felt channels are:

Door hinge side: MUC4071

Door latch side: MUC4072

I used Britpart ones as they're one £2 each!

The door shim stuff (MUC4073) comes as a long strip and you just trim it down and uses the screws that hold the channel one to secure it. Again a genuine strip is £1.60! It's needed so that the channels hug the windows nicely as the window could fall out if they're too far apart.

The screws that hold the channel in can be fiddley to remove, so just use a good fitting screwdriver and be careful!

Check my build thread in my signature, but I haven't got any specific pictures of me doing this!

Steve

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Thanks for the advice Steve, I will buy the shimm's. Although I was planning to buy the felt channels from SP4X4, they sell 1 meter lengths at £1.99 and reckon it takes 3 lengths per door ? means cutting to length etc. So was not sure how long the side sections where mine are rotten inside the door. I also wasn't sure once inside the door where they secured /

As the doors are bare I was planning to take the channel fillers out of my old doors. But wasn't sure how the fillers are held in place ?

The problem is am having the whole vehicle re-sprayed mid October. So plan is to supply the new front doors first get them sprayed, then when I drop my vehicle off for the respray, I can collect the new doors and remove the old ones. That way I can bring them home for reassembly problem is I only have short time scale to reassemble and get them back. That's why I needed the heads up on how they all go together.

I have also got to fit some side windows before it goes for the re-spray, As I work 12 hour shifts and 6 on the bounce with only 2 !/2 days off in between its a tight time scale.

Thanks for the advice Ian

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I bought Gen ones but they are pricey. The screws are listed tap screws really and be careful, the Paddock price for Britpart ones is (or was) unbelievable and they aren't tap screws anyway. At their counter they realised that the price was for a pack of x10. Also they are a tad too long! Surprised? try to recover your existing ones.

The channels go all the way down the sides of the door to hold the glass when it is wound down. There are screws all the way down too and pre-made channels have the holes pre-drilled IIRC.

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There are sellers of the correct sized self-tappers in stainless on the bay.

Agreed the blue box door window channels aren't much good.

They fit OK, but the exposed steel core starts to rust at each end pretty quickly.

Unless genuine ones have a zinc plated steel section, I can't see they would fare much better...unless perhaps the ends are moulded over.

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Thanks for all the advice and from experience I tend to avoid Britpart like the plague anyway, although I am always tempted by the prices. In stead I tend to go for Bearmach if I use an aftermarket part.

Still a bit confused how the channel fillers are held in place ? do the felt channel screws hold them in place when you secure the felt window channels ?

I made the mistake of ordering some self tapping screws for securing the channels, using the correct part number they cost me £2.99 for 10. When I found out the size M6 X 1/2" I ordered more and in bulk and managed to get 200 for £6.93.

I have now learned to put the part number in Google and some very nice suppliers very kindly give you the dimentions/sizes, you then go on Ebay or to a local hardware store and buy them loose in the quantity you need or in bulk (I always need screws for one job or another so I buy bulk).

Did the same trick with the door inner panel securing screws, I ordered 5 for my drivers door (silly price) bought using the part number. I then bought another 5 loose after getting the correct size and only paid 1/4 of the price.

Even found a supplier local where I can now buy any size or quantity of stainless over the counter within 4 miles of where I live :i-m_so_happy:

Still got to buy the shimm's yet, so need to look around for best price or find someone who can supply stainless in the right dimentions.

Thanks Ian

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If you have puma doors be aware that even the genuine screws ordered from LR dealer are too long for the top felt channel - they come up against the top part of the door then strip the thread out. The ones needed are special short ones but parts catalogue doesn't differentiate from the others, at least it didn't a year or two ago when I did mine.

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