sharkey964 Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Evening chaps. I just replaced my clutch with a Vaelo H/D unit,new rear oil seal & bronze bush. I have the gearbox on the engine with 3 of the studs at the top on by a few threads,but can't get the bell housing to close up at the bottom enough to get the a nut on the studs.It seems as if the shaft isn't lining up with the hole in the crank. Iv'e tried turning the crank with a spanner as i'm tightening the bolts,(I have used some longer ones at the bottom to try to pull the thing together)to get the splines to line up.But no joy. Is there any tips you guys can offer to get it to go together. Cheers Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Clutch alignment, clearnace on the spigot bush, angle of the box. Stick the box in gear too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkey964 Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 What do you mean by clearance on the spigot bush. Iv'e tried turning the crank with a socket on the crank pully,but with the gearbox in neutral.Does the gearbox need to be in gear???If so,which gear? Thanks Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 What do you mean by clearance on the spigot bush. did you try the new spigot bush on the gearbox shaft before fitting the bush in end of the crankshaft ? if not the bush could be to small on internal diameter to allow the gearbox shaft to slide in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkey964 Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 Yes, I tried it on the end of the shaft,it fitted fine. Thanks Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 If you turn the crank with the gearbox in neutral you'll just turn the input shaft as well. In order to stop the input shaft rotating put the box in gear, or you could try turningthe ooutput shaft on the box.. in difflock if the transfer box is on it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkey964 Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 If you turn the crank with the gearbox in neutral you'll just turn the input shaft as well. In order to stop the input shaft rotating put the box in gear, or you could try turningthe ooutput shaft on the box.. in difflock if the transfer box is on it.... Thanks discoron I'll try that tomorrow. Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 This happened to me. Perseverance for 1.5 hours got there in the end*. You just have to keep trying different angles and wiggling it around. I believe the bush compressed slightly after being fitted into the crankshaft, as the alignment tool wouldn't fit smoothly afterwards. *Assuming it is aligned correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 It needs to go on straight. If you try to get bolts in at the top like you've done, the assembly ends up misaligned (as the tops pulled in and the bottoms open), and they wont slide together. The clearances are so tight it all needs to slide in straight. The other thing that can happen is you can burr the edges of the teeth on the clutch drive plate as your mashing it against the input shaft at the wrong angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkey964 Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 It needs to go on straight. If you try to get bolts in at the top like you've done, the assembly ends up misaligned (as the tops pulled in and the bottoms open), and they wont slide together. The clearances are so tight it all needs to slide in straight. The other thing that can happen is you can burr the edges of the teeth on the clutch drive plate as your mashing it against the input shaft at the wrong angle. Aragorn,you were dead right,I had burred the teeth on the drive plate. Well after 3 hours of pushing pulling & swearing,my new clutch is in. Thanks to all who replied with suggestions. BUT......I looked in the box that had the clutch fork in it & found a little plastic clip.The square thing in this link. http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/land-rove...-bush.html Can anyone tell me where it go's. I hope I don't have to strip it all down again to put it in. Thanks Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 It holds the release bearing against the fork, its just an assembly aid, so as long as the release bearing has stayed put and is all sitting properly against the clutch and fork, you dont need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkey964 Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 It holds the release bearing against the fork, its just an assembly aid, so as long as the release bearing has stayed put and is all sitting properly against the clutch and fork, you dont need it. It's all gone together & bolted up.How will I know if the bearing has stayed in position against the clutch & fork? At what point can I try it???? I still need to put the slave cylinder back in then all the electrical conections & breathers. Thanks Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 you'll know if its all ok when you drive it, if no clutch action, there's a problem. release bearing cannot fall as it sits/slides on the tube around gearbox shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Plumb the clutch in and bleed it, then make sure it works (i.e. releases and re-engages) before putting the floors etc. back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkey964 Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 Plumb the clutch in and bleed it, then make sure it works (i.e. releases and re-engages) before putting the floors etc. back in. Why will it need bleeding? I have only unbolted the slave cylinder from the bell housing & tucked it up out of the way whilst changing the clutch. Thanks Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Don't bleed it then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Why will it need bleeding? I have only unbolted the slave cylinder from the bell housing & tucked it up out of the way whilst changing the clutch. Thanks Marc that's what I do with my slave cylinder for a clutch change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.