1800phil Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Hi, I've just brought a Disco 1 to put back on the road no history at all and its covered 160,000, first job is head gasket, blowing coolant out of exhaust. I've removed the head with no problems and inspected the gasket to find its blown between 2 and 3 cylinders. I've also noticed its got no holes to indicate thickness. After reading some other posts it seems the 3 hole is most common gasket! Should I just order a gasket with no holes and hope for the best? Or how easy is it to work out required thickness by measuring top of piston protruding the block. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 I think the process is covered in the Haynes, but I also think the practice is to just replace with the 3-hole - best get that confirmed before you order it though. If the gaskets gone, have you put a straight edge on the head to make sure it's not warped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Certainly in the WSM, pretty sure it's in the Haynes. And I have a sneaking suspicion that the no hole gasket is thicker than the 3 hole gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reiny Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Certainly in the WSM, pretty sure it's in the Haynes. And I have a sneaking suspicion that the no hole gasket is thicker than the 3 hole gasket. Ditto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hercu Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 In my post Disco overheating Boydie gave some very valuable answers.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toenden Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Hi. The right approach would be to measure piston protrution as mentioned above BUT I have just changed a headgasket that didn't have any holes... It took some persuation to get three of my normal suppliers to have a look in their books for a "0" hole gasket (1,6 mm). All three of them learned something that day as it does exist! :-) Give a shout if you need it's number. Mads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hangover Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 Definitely have the head checked for warpage and cracks , after having 2 elring composites blow i then fitted a Victor Reinz MLS gasket on advice from a local LR specialist and other tdi owners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 Okay, if you have a blown head gasket 1.) Replace it with a COMPOSITE gasket NOT with a multiple metal item, the latter are ONLY for perfect new surfaces. There are four gaskets available, Measure ALL the four pistons to see how much they rise above the block - go by the biggest measurement. Measure them at TDC with a steel ruler across the top of the piston and use feeler gauges to measure how much they are above the block. If you have a dial gauge to do this so much the better. Set it on the block, zero it on the block and read the height of each piston. The gaskets are as follows:- 1 hole gasket, 1.3mm ERR5261, Piston Protrusion above the block, 0.50 - 0.60mm 2 hole gasket 1.4mm ERR5262 Piston Protrusion above the block 0.61 - 0.70mm 3 hole gasket 1.5mm ERR5263 Piston Protrusion above the block 0.71 - 0.80mm (This is the most common 300 Tdi gasket.) 0 hole gasket 1.6mm ERR7154 Piston Protrusion above the block, if above 0.80mm Have the head pressure tested for cracks and for any warping, if its badly warped there is an "Evolution head" available if your budget allows, go for one of these a new head. Replace all the head bolts, To correctly tighten them you WILL need a torque wrench as well as a dial torque gauge as the final applications are designed to stretch the bolts. Ensure that the bolt tapping's are clear, blow any debris out with compressed air DO NOT re-tap them! If you have had to have the head skimmed purchase 18 high grade stainless steel flat washers .0.50mm thick for each head bolt to ensure that the bolts do not bottom in their block tappings when torquing them up. If the head has needed to have been skimmed more than 0.50mm toss it as the valves will hit the pistons and cause cataclysmic damage. Ensure that the block and head surfaces are clean. Have fun, it's not a big operation, as for the head gaskets, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 I've retapped several engine blocks... What's the big deal? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 All the manuals, Land Rover and 90% of diesel engines tell you quite clearly not to re-tap them, as standard these thread sizes are almost an interference fit, if the threads are tapped and become only marginally oversize the bolts can tear out stripping the threads as they are under such huge torques, and with the 300Tdi they are then stretched. Simply put its a very high compression diesel, not a petrol engine, so Vulcan, dont do it What I was going to add was as for the head gaskets, only use the multi metal gaskets on brand new engines, if either the head, or the block has the slightest corrosion pitting use a composite gasket, this also applies to the infamous "P" gasket at the rear of the water pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheffield Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Do Victor Reinz have a UK outlet? Their web site does appears to indicate they do not sell them in the UK, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 You can probably just buy them from ebay.de -I do this a lot for my Audi bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheffield Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Thanks. I now see there seems to be a French stockist I might be able to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Have the head pressure tested for cracks and for any warping, if its badly warped there is an "Evolution head" available if your budget allows, go for one of these a new head. got a link to this evo head? i thourth amc was only after market supplier of cylinders heads for 300tdi's. Do Victor Reinz have a UK outlet? Their web site does appears to indicate they do not sell them in the UK, no that helpful but our parts factor supplies us with victor reinz headsets and headbolts all the time, maybe try a local parts factors to see if they have any instock or can order in for you?? BGA are also a good quality for gaskets etc and have a full online catalog with many products listed for LR's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 I got my "evolution" head direct from Land Rover, at a H U G E cost well over AUD $1500 however I believe that they are now available aftermarket, the only mods are that the evolution head has larger water journals and is thicker by about an additional 4.0 mm at the compression face to minimize the risk of cracking. Mine came complete with valves and springs fitted but you can buy them without to save a few coins. Me personally, I went for the fully assembled head, if you're going to fit a new head why wouldn't you fit new valves and valve springs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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