bodumatau Posted July 8, 2016 Author Share Posted July 8, 2016 I asked some questions earlier in the post, asking them again. 1. where do i read on the tuner studio whether I am running too lean or rich? 2. what does a high voltage on my Lambda sensor mean and how can I change this? 3. O2 back voltage gauge, mine goes into the red both ways? what do I adjust to fix this I have been reading the megaquirt manual but often it will just say "make mixture richer" or "adjust lambda" and I don't know where to correlate this from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 1. I just checked my MsDroid dash and I use the field "Air:Fuel Ratio 1" I guess the field is defined by the ms coding and so should be the same in Tunerstudio, someone will need to confirm or I can look when I get home. 2. Do you mean a generally high voltage ? I.e it's higher than you expect? If so that could be a voltage offset caused by your wiring scheme. If you trust that you have no offset and are asking what a high reading means, then generally higher voltage equals leaner reading 3. If you right click the gauge there is a menu for changing gauge limits. Here you can define when it goes red. If you have the paid version you can also customise pretty much everything about each gauge which is nice! *Edit- point 2: are you using narrowband? Most widebands are along the lines of 0v = 10:1 and 5v= 20:1 If you are using a narrowband sensor then basically all it will tell you is 0.5v is stoich, I think the voltage output is the other way about on these? I.e. lower volts equals leaner? Again someone (Bowie, help!?!) Can confirm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 11, 2016 Author Share Posted July 11, 2016 thanks for the feedback Quagmire, 1. yep I have found the AFR gauge and trying to use this, it usually runs quite rich (12-13) and if I fiddle with the AV chart I can get it to run at around 14,7 but then it often goes well into the lean section (but only when I take power off, which means no fuel being fed which should be right then?) 2. I have subsequently found a "O2 front voltage" and this works better, seems to be speaking to my Lambda sensor. I am using the regular lambda sensor Nigel sends with his kit, has 4 wires, his instructions are if you connect two of them then it becomes a wide band sensor, so I have done this and ticked the wide band sensor. has anyone got a base MSQ file for me for a 3.5V8, I have misplaced my CD I got from Nigel and he doesn't answer emails or telephone..... and having fiddled...... and having not been clever enough to save an original copy that came off the ECU...... yes I know not the brightest thing to do, but in the heat of the moment and all..... anyone? she is running quite nicely at the moment, still struggling to set my startup idle, for some reason the Bosch Extra air valve opens and then closes again after a few seconds if I start without giving any throttle.... so at the moment I am starting with just a little throttle to get past these first 5 seconds and then the EAV seems to do its thing and the warmup cycle starts.... I am also struggling with Bowies description of finding the "base idle", if I block off the EAV pipes and set my idle with the idle screw then as soon as I let go the EAV pipes again the idle goes up to 1500+rpm, which makes sense cause the EAV is never fully closed, so maybe i have misunderstood what he meant. at the moment I have the idle bypass valve set fully closed (feels like it) and after the initial EAV silly moment it seems to control the revs quite well until the engine has warmed up. anyway..... learning as i go along...... and I thought the wiring and assembly of the megasquirt was going to be the difficult part........... go figure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 Stalling after start normally means you need more and longer after start enrichment, and/or more warmup fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 The Lambda sensor in the kit is a narrow band. I've not seen any suggestion that it can be converted to a wideband by twisting a couple of wires together, I think you've maybe misunderstood something there.. There are two whites for the sensor heater (A supply and ground), a blue signal wire to the ECU and a sensor ground. I initially joined one of the white wires to the sensor ground wire and took that back to the relay board but then read a post somewhere that said that those two grounds should be kept separate with only the sensor ground being taken back to the ECU to try and avoid "noise" disrupting the signal from the Lambda. It recommended earthing the heater (white) to the chassis away from the ECU. I did that. For the EAV valve, there should be a setting where the EAV is totally closed, it will be "closed" with a signal voltage, you just need to figure out what that voyage is. The reason it does not close fully under "no" voltage is so that if it fails, it will still be a little bit open and allow the car to idle. If its the Bosch valve, then my story here may help. Disclaimer: I may be talking rubbish so take anything I say with a pinch of salt. (I'd be more confident if mine was running properly... ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 11, 2016 Author Share Posted July 11, 2016 indeed you are right fatboy, must have been one of my brain farts..... have them from time to time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 11, 2016 Author Share Posted July 11, 2016 heehee........fat boy.......i think that fix of yours was bingo.... have also figured out the auto tune - daahhh, does it make life easier one question, can i autotune on a log? haven't found a way to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 The (old) MSTweak3000 program would analyse logs and suggest a new fuel map, don't know the current state of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 Megalogviewer used to do it in the free version, I think now it will only do the first 5000 records of a log unless you get the paid version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 Autotune in TS works just fine, same guy wrote MLV just wanted to move things along a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 12, 2016 Author Share Posted July 12, 2016 I keep getting AFR target table anomalies. usually my tables look like this: but on some data logs or if I ask TS to generate me a AFR table then all values go to 5V like this: what am I doing wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 13, 2016 Author Share Posted July 13, 2016 does anyone know how to connect a "tach fix" box sold by Nigel? I bought one from him with my MS kit but didn't get any instructions, my old tacho was driven off the trigger wire from my coil, now not having a trigger wire I need to run it off the ECU? but which pin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 The 4 wires go to each of your edis coils then one to the tachometer. Without one in my hand hard to say colours etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 13, 2016 Author Share Posted July 13, 2016 heehee........fat boy.......i think that fix of yours was bingo.... have also figured out the auto tune - daahhh, does it make life easier one question, can i autotune on a log? haven't found a way to do it. to answer my question, Megalog Viewer can analyse a log and tune the VE table accordingly, this is exactly what I am looking for, this way I can put together a really long log with different kinds of driving and then get a VE table which covers all of my driving patterns not only one day. now I just need to figure out how to put logs together so megalog viewer thinks its all one log. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 13, 2016 Author Share Posted July 13, 2016 The 4 wires go to each of your edis coils then one to the tachometer. Without one in my hand hard to say colours etc Bowie thanks for the answer, but I only have the following wires. 1. red - assume this is power 2. black - assume this is ground 3. orange - this is labelled ECU 4. yellow - labelled tacho so I don't understand how to connect to the 4 EDIS wires? or do I only need to tap into one of them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 Well in that case it is something entirely different to what I am used to, ask Nice for instructions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 13, 2016 Author Share Posted July 13, 2016 tried that..... but he doesn't answer either emails or telephone..... otherwise I wouldn't be bothering you guys. this is what my tacho fix looks like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 Hmmm I'll dig out the instructions, don't do these now, got them from MS2 tunning a while back .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 So this then: http://www.ms2tuning.com/products.html Seems like it is ECU tachout, tacho, and power and ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 14, 2016 Author Share Posted July 14, 2016 exactly Bowie, but that is my question, what is ECU tachout on the MS1 ? none of the pins are labelled with this.... and I am too afraid to fiddle and try lest I pop the ECU. Hmmm I'll dig out the instructions, don't do these now, got them from MS2 tunning a while back .... He is alive !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 That'll depend on how it is built, but normally JS0/1 or IAC1A, IAC1B, IAC2A, IAC2B. Need Nige's or Fridge's input here I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 If the ECU wasn't built with an extra tacho output circuit added then you're stuck. I assume if you ordered it from Nige at the same time as the tacho box he'd have had it built to suit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 14, 2016 Author Share Posted July 14, 2016 yes I did order them together, as a solution for my VDO tacho, I too assume this...... but we all know that assumption is the mother of all **ckups. lets wait for Nigel to get back to me...... last thing to do before I close up my dash and put all the bit back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 If it is the aftermarket VDO tacho, it is pretty configurable via dipswitches and may not need the 'fix', taking a feed directly from the ECU... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted July 14, 2016 Author Share Posted July 14, 2016 but still is the question "which feed from the ECU"? don't have the destructions for the tacho anymore but it has these three little switches on the back so I am sure I can set it up, only need to know where I can take a signal from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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