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Oil & Grease


Paul64

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Been out in the garage for a bit of routine stuff on the LR.

Checked the oil level and found it 1/2 cm over the H mark, in an area marked danger! I know if there is too much oil then the engine is at risk of damage. This was serviced by a LR specialist before I bought it off him, surely he should know about an oil change???? Do you think a 1000 miles at this level will have caused much damage? Please break the news to me gently!

Does anyone have any recommendations regarding engine oil?

I decided to drain off some of the oil, but didn't have a big enough socket. Too big even for the wheel nut spanner. Is it metric or imperial and what size is it, as I will need to buy a socket tomorrow? (1994 110 CSW 200tdi)

Then came the grease top up front and rear prop shaft. Totally dry! Kept pumping it in until grease showed. What is that all about? Surely a full service includes this?

Many thanks for your help in advance.

Cheers, Paul.

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Been out in the garage for a bit of routine stuff on the LR.

Checked the oil level and found it 1/2 cm over the H mark, in an area marked danger! I know if the oil is too full the engine is at risk of damage. This was serviced by a LR specialist before I bought it off him, surely he should know about an oil change???? Do you think a 1000 miles at this level will have caused much damage? Please break the news to me gently!

Does anyone have any recommendations regarding engine oil?

I decided to drain off some of the oil, but didn't have a big enough socket. Too big even for the wheel nut spanner. Is it metric or imperial and what size is it, as I will need to buy a socket tomorrow? (1994 110 CSW 200tdi)

Then came the grease top up front and rear prop shaft. Totally dry! Kept pumping it in until grease showed. What is that all about? Surely a full service includes this?

Many thanks for your help in advance.

Cheers, Paul.

I've found that some people's idea of a service doesn't exactly tally with what the vehicle needs....

That said, and in answer to your questions....

High oil level - if it's not done any damage over the last 1000 miles you should be ok - however, when was the last time YOU checked it???

To get a true reading on the dipstick, the car needs to have been stood for a good 20 - 30 mins with the engine off to allow all the oil to reach the sump. If it's not checked this way, the level will read low, and obviously any topping up will over fill it. Be aware also that it's not unknown for the dipstick tube itself to work loose and drop further into the sump, causing the level on the stick to read high. I'd suggest at the next oil change you measure the correct volume of oil as per the workshop manual (6.85 litres including oil filter) then let it settle and see what reading you get on the stick.

As for the lack of grease - it doesn't sound like the uj's have been done for a while, and there is no excuse for that. TBH, I tend to give mine a going over with the grease gun at least once a month...

Matt

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Been out in the garage for a bit of routine stuff on the LR.

Checked the oil level and found it 1/2 cm over the H mark, in an area marked danger! I know if the oil is too full the engine is at risk of damage. This was serviced by a LR specialist before I bought it off him, surely he should know about an oil change???? Do you think a 1000 miles at this level will have caused much damage? Please break the news to me gently!

Does anyone have any recommendations regarding engine oil?

I decided to drain off some of the oil, but didn't have a big enough socket. Too big even for the wheel nut spanner. Is it metric or imperial and what size is it, as I will need to buy a socket tomorrow? (1994 110 CSW 200tdi)

Then came the grease top up front and rear prop shaft. Totally dry! Kept pumping it in until grease showed. What is that all about? Surely a full service includes this?

Many thanks for your help in advance.

Cheers, Paul.

If you have done 1000 miles since the last service and being a Land Rover the oil level was probably 1cm plus over the high mark! If you have done 1000miles and the engine is still running I would leave it alone.

Not sure what socket since the NAS has one of those V8 engines for which the Gods own fuel guys show complete disrespect.

Yes a good LR garage who do some off-roading will know to grease the prop shafts, probably only every other for the standard service, so your garage were probably following the book. I always grease the NAS after every off-road trip to drive-out any water, suggest you keep the grease gun handy, very easy to add some grease and you know the conditions through which you have driven.

I suggest if you have a high mileage engine you use a semi-synthetic designed for older engines, if not too many miles still worth using a semi-synthetic or good quality straight. If you are changing the oil yourself use a cheaper grade and change more often, if you use a garage they will use what is in their stores!

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I've found that some people's idea of a service doesn't exactly tally with what the vehicle needs....

That said, and in answer to your questions....

High oil level - if it's not done any damage over the last 1000 miles you should be ok - however, when was the last time YOU checked it???

To get a true reading on the dipstick, the car needs to have been stood for a good 20 - 30 mins with the engine off to allow all the oil to reach the sump. If it's not checked this way, the level will read low, and obviously any topping up will over fill it. Be aware also that it's not unknown for the dipstick tube itself to work loose and drop further into the sump, causing the level on the stick to read high. I'd suggest at the next oil change you measure the correct volume of oil as per the workshop manual (6.85 litres including oil filter) then let it settle and see what reading you get on the stick.

As for the lack of grease - it doesn't sound like the uj's have been done for a while, and there is no excuse for that. TBH, I tend to give mine a going over with the grease gun at least once a month...

Matt

Thanks Matt,

I checked the oil level totally cold. I bought the LR on 140 000 miles, and now it is on 141000, so this is the first check.

Cheers, Paul

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If you have done 1000 miles since the last service and being a Land Rover the oil level was probably 1cm plus over the high mark! If you have done 1000miles and the engine is still running I would leave it alone.

Not sure what socket since the NAS has one of those V8 engines for which the Gods own fuel guys show complete disrespect.

Yes a good LR garage who do some off-roading will know to grease the prop shafts, probably only every other for the standard service, so your garage were probably following the book. I always grease the NAS after every off-road trip to drive-out any water, suggest you keep the grease gun handy, very easy to add some grease and you know the conditions through which you have driven.

I suggest if you have a high mileage engine you use a semi-synthetic designed for older engines, if not too many miles still worth using a semi-synthetic or good quality straight. If you are changing the oil yourself use a cheaper grade and change more often, if you use a garage they will use what is in their stores!

Thanks for the info. What grade of oil would you go for. Not trying to put you on the spot, but I know this is going to be a pig in the German car shop. My German is poor and nothing is ever written in the Queens own.

Cheers, Paul.

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And I can't believe your odometer is still working over 100000 miles so it must have been clocked forward :) Every 1990's Defender I have seen the speedo or odometer pack up around 100000 miles. :)

For oil, I use Valvoline Durablend 10/40 or Millers XFE.

mines still working at 378,000 plus :)

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And I can't believe your odometer is still working over 100000 miles so it must have been clocked forward :) Every 1990's Defender I have seen the speedo or odometer pack up around 100000 miles. :)

For oil, I use Valvoline Durablend 10/40 or Millers XFE.

Thanks for that. I know they sell Valvoline, so that is a big help. Cheers

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I wouldn't worry about it either. The engine will probably use a bit of oil, and draining a small amount via the sump bung is much easier said than done (he says, thinking back to a memorable experience under a Citroen BX :D) . The 200 TDi's bung is 32mm, iirc.

Greasing the universal joints fairly regularly is a good idea, but be careful with the sliding joints halfway along the propshaft because it's possible to overpack them. You're really supposed to undo one end of the prop and grease them after compressing the joint, but I just give mine a few pumps of the gun every other service and they seem fine.

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I wouldn't worry about it either. The engine will probably use a bit of oil, and draining a small amount via the sump bung is much easier said than done (he says, thinking back to a memorable experience under a Citroen BX :D) . The 200 TDi's bung is 32mm, iirc.

Greasing the universal joints fairly regularly is a good idea, but be careful with the sliding joints halfway along the propshaft because it's possible to overpack them. You're really supposed to undo one end of the prop and grease them after compressing the joint, but I just give mine a few pumps of the gun every other service and they seem fine.

Thanks for that. I have decided to get a heavy duty set of sockets this weekend, as will need them for future jobs anyway.

Cheers, Paul.

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Thanks for that. I have decided to get a heavy duty set of sockets this weekend, as will need them for future jobs anyway.

I guess Halfords do not have stores in Germany but I (and many others here) would recomend their Professional tool range if you happen to be in the UK.

For engine oil, consult the bible. That will tell you what to look for in an engine oil - it is the letters on the side of the can that are important.

Chris

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Your oil level may be fine for road use, but on steep inclines it might not be a good idea. Engines that have the correct amount of oil in smoke quite a lot when at a steep angel as the oil gets past the piston into the combustion area. With too much oil, this is increased and the quantity getting past the piston may become a more serious problem perhaps. Could the engine hydro-lock on it's own oil?

Les. :)

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Could the engine hydro-lock on it's own oil?

I can not imagine that the engine would run with rings that bad Les! Oil getting into the breather system at extreme angles can be an issue but more about it's failure to drain from the heads than from excess oil in the sump. IIRC Bathtub has had this with his Jepe.

Chris

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Les is right, but i reckon a 5mm overfill on an engine like yours isn't too much to worry about, i overfilled my 300 tdi recently and tried to drain some out, i dropped the sodding filler plug in the drain pot and got oil everywhere trying to sort it out!!!

i'd ignor it, on an engine like yours (well over 100,000 miles) you should be looking at 4-5k oil changes anyway... so it wont be like it for long.

as for propshaft grease, i think they recommend doing it every 3,000 miles, which is a good idea, if you do a heavy off roading session with lots of sand, mud or water then just give them a squirt afterwards... its possible to overfill the sliding joints, but pretty much impossible to overdo it on the UJ's, as they just expel excess grease anyway.

even if you get your servicing done by someone else, things like going round with the grease gun, and checking oil levels should be done between services...

hope this helps.

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Rather than trying to drain any out, dropping the bung and ending up with oil cascading through your hair, an easier alternative if you DO want to drain a bit out would be to remove the oil filter, drain the oil out of it and stick it back on...

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I guess Halfords do not have stores in Germany but I (and many others here) would recomend their Professional tool range if you happen to be in the UK.

For engine oil, consult the bible. That will tell you what to look for in an engine oil - it is the letters on the side of the can that are important.

Chris

Thanks Chris, no Halfords in Germany, buy they do have them in Holland, and I know there is a Halfords store in Enshede about 1 hour away.

The oil info looks interesting. I will have a read tonight after work. Just out of interest which oil do you use?

Cheers, Paul.

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I can not imagine that the engine would run with rings that bad Les! Oil getting into the breather system at extreme angles can be an issue but more about it's failure to drain from the heads than from excess oil in the sump. IIRC Bathtub has had this with his Jepe.

Chris

I did have to clean out the engine breather and pipe down to air filter as lined with the wet black stuff. I was told this is quite normal on a 200tdi?

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I use Halfords own brand semi-synthetic diesel oil. I forget the viscosity but IIRC it is wrong for the vehicle - works just fine though. Halfords own brand oil is surprisingly good quality and good value.

Chris

Sounds like a trip to Holland. The labelling is better too, as they always have multi language info on side.

Cheers, Paul.

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Les is right, but i reckon a 5mm overfill on an engine like yours isn't too much to worry about, i overfilled my 300 tdi recently and tried to drain some out, i dropped the sodding filler plug in the drain pot and got oil everywhere trying to sort it out!!!

i'd ignor it, on an engine like yours (well over 100,000 miles) you should be looking at 4-5k oil changes anyway... so it wont be like it for long.

as for propshaft grease, i think they recommend doing it every 3,000 miles, which is a good idea, if you do a heavy off roading session with lots of sand, mud or water then just give them a squirt afterwards... its possible to overfill the sliding joints, but pretty much impossible to overdo it on the UJ's, as they just expel excess grease anyway.

even if you get your servicing done by someone else, things like going round with the grease gun, and checking oil levels should be done between services...

hope this helps.

Yes it does help, thanks. What does UJ stand for? I greased through the nipples front and back of propshaft. Are they the UJ's? Both of them release grease around joint when full, so thought no harm could be done. Sliding joint in the middle, I didn't touch that one?

Cheers, Paul.

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Rather than trying to drain any out, dropping the bung and ending up with oil cascading through your hair, an easier alternative if you DO want to drain a bit out would be to remove the oil filter, drain the oil out of it and stick it back on...

That's a good idea. Thanks

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