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Series 3 Chassis Swap - Additional Jobs Worth Doing?


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Hi everyone,

Chris Newbie here.  'Snagger' was kind enough to recommend this forum and so I thought I'd ask my 1st question!

I unfortunately had a little accident in my S3 and the chassis has been deemed a Cat' C write off.  

I'm going to therefore give 'Wombat' a new chassis and I've started the 'strip-down'.

What I wanted to get a feel of is what others think would be worthwhile additional jobs to do whilst the rebuild takes place?

Not that there were any major issues that needed addressing prior to the accident, but I just thought there might be some 'no brainers' that are just worth doing whilst you have a golden chance.

A couple of suggestions have been replacing the clutch plate & spigot bearing and decoking the engine.

Any recommendations would be gratefully received!

Merry Christmas...

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Thanks for the suggestions and I have ordered the chassis to have the extra outrigger for the 2nd fuel tank - 'just in case' I ever wanted one, but I hadn't thought of using it as storage space - like it!

So an Autosparks replacement loom then; are you thinking by running it outside of the chassis it means in the future it's more accessible?  Regarding the aux' (futureproofing!) loom - a whole additional loom. or just a few extra wires running front to back?

And silly question time - but what is the main benefit of having the headlights on a relay feed?

Wombat's got a 2.25, 5 bearing, petrol engine.

Thanks all for your time and thoughts!

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Chris, the sealed beam headlights are truly awful, though they have the benefit of being water proof for those who wade.  Replacing them with halogen lights is a useful upgrade, and relatively cheap, and gives good lighting without extra spots that can spoil a classic LR's looks.  The snag is that they draw a lot of current, too much for the dash and stalk switches.  Using the existing switches and wiring to the rad panel to control rad panel mounted relays with heavier wiring from the battery will give less resistance, so brighter output from the halogens than the existing circuit, and will only put a minimal current through the (expensive) switches, so they should last indefinitely.


Other options I strongly recommend in the rebuild are: a 65A alternator (Defender and Discovery 200Tdi spec, will fit the SIII with minimal effort); heated front screens, fog lights, reverse light and the heated rear screen and wash/wipe from a Defender.  Defender seats are a direct fit to the SII and SIII seat base - you don't even have to drill any bolt holes as they use the same holes as the steel rails.  Unlike most seats, the Defender seats have lift out bases like Series seats, so you can still get at the fuel tank areas.  If you fit a centre cubby, then you can mount the seats on the inboard hole pairs, giving a couple of extra inches of elbow room.  Nice if you add heating to the seats, too.

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Welcome and good to see a Series being rebuild !!

One can take it as far as money, time & energy allows..

When we do a chassis swop for ourselves, we use a galvanized chassis and bulkhead. So much easier to do when it is all off..

I am know for overdoing the electrics - and for being nowhere near original - but yes, well protected wiring loom in the RH chassis rails with an additional garden hose that has extra wires are very easy to put in when bare and always useful..

Relays will help for better light, longer live switches etc.

Good luck !!

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While you've got the axles off and so good access, replace the rubber bushes in the spring 'eyes'.

Again, New steering-relay bushes while the stupid relay-thing is off and accessible.

I'd certainly put a new 3-part clutch [pressure-plate, driven-plate, release bearing] in, and consider if you should pull the flywheel and replace the crankshaft rear oil-seal as well. Sod's Law will otherwise give you an oilseal-failure a couple of weeks after you get your rebuild on the road....

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