Retroanaconda Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 Today I took the rear axle off the 90, and I had planned to give some attention to a few slightly crusty looking bits at the back of the chassis while access was good, namely some pitting around the upper shock mounts, and give the whole area some new paint. I removed the three bolts holding the mounts on and found this: A hole has appeared on both sides under the shock mount, and on the nearside the strengthening gusset for the a-frame crossmember has rotten away too. So I need to repair these areas and get the axle back underneath before the end of next week. The gusset should be fairly simple, just cut out and replace with a triangular piece of plate. For the main chassis rail areas I was thinking of cutting out a square around the affected area, and welding in new metal in it's place. It would have to include a right-angled bend across to the top of the chassis, since the rot extends to the very edge of the top surface. Luckily the curvature of the chassis is slight in this area so I should be able to get away with a simple straight bend in some 3mm plate. I think this is the best way of going about this repair, unless someone can point out something that I've missed? Cheers (off to raid the scrapyard for small bits of 3mm plate!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 Hi. I am currently fixing the same area but on the inside of the chassis rail. When I cut my rot out, and cleaned up the area, it just got bigger and bigger. Underneath the chassis appears to be upper and lower u sections with plate tack and seam welded on in 2mm plate. Once the outer plate was removed the inner section was ok, so I just fabricated a 2mm repair piece. I now just have to weld in the new body mount bracket. Then to check the other side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 14, 2011 Author Share Posted April 14, 2011 Other side of mine looks OK so far, so I was just going to replace the outer piece with 3mm and drill the three holes through from the inside. I have tapped around with the hammer and the rot appears to be limited to the areas shown above, but that's not to say I won't find more when I get in there with the wire brush and flap wheels! Time will tell, I'm hoping it will be a simple repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 Probably preaching to the converted but a bit of CAD (cardboard aided design ) is perfect for keeping the whole positions as you're likely to be disrupting them . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 17, 2011 Author Share Posted April 17, 2011 I'm sure some CAD will come in to it yes Found some more rot yesterday, just forward of the a-frame cross-member in one of Land Rover's handily provided rust traps: This is pretty much inaccessible from current positioning, so I'm going to take the rear body off for better access. It will also give me a chance to clean the entire chassis rear of the transfer box mounts (the rusty half basically) and give it all several coats of primer and paint, plus some cavity wax inside. Hoping I can recruit some assistance from some friends and get the body off, chassis cleaned up/repaired, and body back on in one day. But it may turn into more than one day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 17, 2011 Share Posted April 17, 2011 When are you planning on doing it James? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 17, 2011 Author Share Posted April 17, 2011 Wednesday is day 1, then I have to work Thu/Fri, then I'll be hitting it again Saturday & Sunday if I run out of time Wednesday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 20, 2011 Author Share Posted April 20, 2011 Well that was a workout. Ably assisted by Ross above and another friend of mine we got the rear body off and were able to assess the damage more closely. Surprise surprise we found more rot. Rear body removed for access, some bolts put up a fight but we got there in the end Rot cut away on the driver's side, hole ready for repair. One of three rust spots on the nearside (much worse this side). Some has been cut out, but need to take it a bit further back when I can get some more grinder discs (or a plasma cutter would be nice). Another rust spot on this side (these and the shock mount area make three ), this is a good mud trap that rarely (if ever) gets cleaned out properly. LOTS to do, looks like I'll be spending this weekend cutting, grinding, and welding, instead of what I wanted to be doing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 Woah, looking at that I would be assessing the whole chassis with a view to replacement... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 So, having looked at those pics, it would appear the chassis i removed from my truck would have lasted at least another ten years easy.........!! Good luck with the repairs......... i hope you have lots of grinding discs and 3mm plate.....!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 20, 2011 Author Share Posted April 20, 2011 I'd love to, but I can't swallow the £1700 bill right now. The front half of the chassis is actually pretty good, or looks to be, and the rear crossmember has been replaced so is solid too. It's just this area around the a-frame crossmember that seems to have suffered badly. If I repair it properly and give the whole lot some decent rustproofing and paint then it should give me at least a few years. Where these gussets go from the top of the crossmember down to the chassis, I'm thinking of boxing it in completely. At least that way mud won't sit in there and rot it out again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 I thought mine was bad! Yours looks worse, but then again I haven't taken the rear body off yet. I also know that ultimately I am going to have to fit a new chassis, but I want to get some use out of it for a year or so first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 23, 2011 Author Share Posted April 23, 2011 So today I spent a happy 10 hours grinding and welding and now it looks like this: The shock mount area was replaced with a single plate let into the chassis rail flush, and the fiddly bits on the nearside I boxed in as I planned. I think this will A: add strength to a potentially weakened area of the chassis and B: prevent large amounts of mud sitting in the void and rotting it out once more. Then again it will take some time to rot through this 3mm plate! Body goes back on tomorrow hopefully, after some more primer and some black paint. I would put the axle underneath as well but I neglected to pick up the suspension arms from the garage and now the earliest I can do that is Tuesday. Chances are the axle will go back underneath next Thursday, then it should be back on the road. Just in time for the VED to run out next Saturday! Anyway, time for a beer and a BBQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 are you going to box in the opposite side to prevent future body off job or leave it as built ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 James, the bits you have boxed in (where I started the grinding, have you filled in the holes and then boxed it in? Just thinking if you haven't done that, then the carp can work its way into the end of the gearbox crossmember and will stay in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 23, 2011 Author Share Posted April 23, 2011 are you going to box in the opposite side to prevent future body off job or leave it as built ? No, time was (is) a factor so they're as built. That side is miraculously solid, so I saw no need to touch it. The next time the body comes off will be to change the chassis in X/Y/Z years' time! James, the bits you have boxed in (where I started the grinding, have you filled in the holes and then boxed it in? Just thinking if you haven't done that, then the carp can work its way into the end of the gearbox crossmember and will stay in there. The a-frame crossmember (I assume you meant that rather than gearbox) cavity is as manufactured, I replaced the internal sides of that before boxing it in yes. Basically it's as it was built, but with a cap over the triangular gusset section Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 No idea why I wrote gearbox!!! must be the bottle of cider . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 24, 2011 Author Share Posted April 24, 2011 With yet more generous help from the forum (thanks Steve200Tdi!) I got the body back on today. Alignment is about right, one door is a little askew but that can be sorted with a quick tweak of the hinges. Still to do: Re-mount fuel filler (getting some stainless 4mm screws rather than those silly 2BA ones). Re-attach outer sill plates to tub and wheel arch. Re-mount and re-wire internal fusebox. Get new bolts for and mount a-frame brackets to chassis. Re-attach shock mounts. Re-fit axle and suspension arms. Change pinion flange & seal on axle. Go for a drive! Should keep me busy on Thursday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 I would bleed the brakes before you drive it if i were you............. you might wanna add that to the list...! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 Nice job you've done there. It looks 100% better Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 27, 2011 Author Share Posted April 27, 2011 Cheers Les Well it's done, got the axle back underneath today and I now have four wheels on my wagon again: If you ever want to make your Defender feel like a Rolls Royce, drive a Series III for two weeks. The comfort comparison is remarkable! Just a few things to finish up tomorrow, need to fit the rear headlining, change the oil in the new axle, and try and bleed the brakes a bit more since they're slightly spongy still I think. But the drive-line clunk has disappeared, so the combination of a better condition axle and all new bushes seems to have sorted that out fine. Very pleased to have it back on the road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 Well done. A great job. Is it the photo, or is it now two tone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 27, 2011 Author Share Posted April 27, 2011 Yeah I haven't got around to painting that last panel grey yet Might be another thing to do tomorrow, actually. Since the weather's so nice at the moment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 Good to see all back together again. Have you vacuumed the inside yet? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 Whey! 4 wheels are generally more use than 2 James . Good to see her complete! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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