ThreePointFive

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About ThreePointFive

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  1. In truth I'm not so worried about the look of the exhaust, It's just not what I'd expected from the descriptions I'd heard of similar systems. If it really bothers me there's always high temp paint, though I've been researching wrapping and ceramic coatings. That said, it seems like both bring their own problems and while under-bonnet temperature is definitely something I'd like to control, I'm not sure that any claimed performance gains are worthwhile on a landbarge like this. Not to mention cost... I was looking forward to the tuning aspect of MS. I'd intended to take it on a dyno to work out exactly what the output is and get the most usable curve from the MS. I'm sure the exhaust and stupid intake will yield a whole 1BHP on their own but I'm not really interested in peak power as I am torque at low revs and making it nice to drive. I remember that Adrian Flux wanted to know the exact increases of any engine mods so it would allow me to kill two birds.
  2. Actually not that shiny. I'm not saying I'm disappointed but I thought the point of stainless was that it was... stain...less... Nonetheless, it bolts on to the engine after removal of the knock sensor so now I only have to contend with the Y pipe's apparent desire to terminate in the passenger chassis rail. To sort of qualify my earlier anti-megasquirt comments, there are many factors that made my build less than ideal. It really isn't for beginners like me. It even more so isn't for one that can't do it one go and has time away from it. That said, without this forum I'd be completely screwed. There's a lot of info out there about MS generally but there are so many different applications that not all of the information is relevant. That's why the guys on here doing P38 conversions are unbelievably useful. Oh well. I'm probably the better part of £1.6k into this engine including MS and I don't even know it isn't seized.
  3. Well I owe Bowie a beer.
  4. Thanks for the help, as always. Moved on to another job, and the giant smack in the balls that is this build continues to supply obstacles at every opportunity. Knock sensor - do I need it? Does MS use it? Is it just a case of smacking the fitting flush like a butcher or is there an easy way to blank it off? Meanwhile, on the other side... Bought a full system from Double S exhausts, I know they're a well known brand around here. Until I have the knock sensor dealt with, none of it will line up properly. Still have to finish the loom, place the ECU in a suitable box, sort out the standard wiring to the starter, finish the fuel pipe routing away from the manifold and anywhere that's going to rub... then I'm almost ready to fire it up for the first time. Megasquirt is not for people like me.
  5. I don't know if this thread is better off being moved, initially I placed it here because it has cross-model influences but is likely now to become a more general build thread. Also the proliferation of 4.0 builds done much better than my own may limit usefulness to other users. So, in dealing with a few challenges of fitting the 4.0, I've come up with a few solutions of varying quality. First, heating pipes. I've decided not to blank these until I get the running sorted as that's just delaying the work. I've routed one pipe around the back of the engine and along the inside of the rocker cover edge, using a standard hose barb to connect it up. This would be pipe 10 in the above diagram. It doesn't have too many tight bends and avoids anything hot or turny. The other side is largely the same but as the connection to the engine is at a tricky angle, I decided to reuse the metal heater pipe and pre-formed 90 degree hose from my old engine as it was able to handle the bend back on itself far better. Again, this keeps the route away from exhausts and pulleys. This would be pipe 4 on the diagram. I don't like the look as to me it has a home made aesthetic, but it at least isn't kinked to buggery. Possibly "wrong" is how I've treated pipe 8. You can see it in the photo below, going from just above the last heater hose to the front right, where it goes to the radiator, next to the expansion tank pipe. Possibly this isn't where that wants to go, hopefully anyone with a better idea can chime in.
  6. This is the problem with buying an engine that came with almost every pipe cut or entirely missing, can't tell what goes where without consulting diagrams that don't always match up with what I have in front of me. So that implies there is a corresponding port on the crankcase...
  7. Have indeed! I did initially have it T-connected into the MAP pipe but looking to use a redundant plenum outlet further up (centre of photo below) seemed like a clean solution...until the point I offered up the pipe and it became clear it would never fit. I'll have to think about that one.
  8. So if the FPR is the PRV.... Wish I'd worked that out before I posted. Thanks for the help, I guess it must be like trying to teach a monkey astrophysics. So here is a picture of what I've got, minus the weird disc thing on the inlet rail. FPR sitting in there somewhere... Filter idea not at all stolen from Fridge's build...
  9. Having problems uploading pictures from mobile, but the bit I was referring to is the one in FFs last photo. I was operating under the impression that is the pressure regulator and the thing on the nearside rear of the plenum is the relief valve. Seems yet again I've made a tit of myself. Regardless, do I need that thing, because it's going to be a tad challenging to refit. Thanks for the help, anyway.
  10. I found the page. Its not on the return line as I'd guessed from memory but that is the nut I removed about two years ago following my interpretation of that instruction and the only one I had anywhere near that location. There is no other way to connect the regulator so I'm a little concerned now. I'm sure there's something glaringly obvious as to how I've misinterpreted it, but at the moment I can't see what else it would be talking about.
  11. Evening all, I've searched and found no definitive answer to this: do I need a Fuel Pressure Regulator? That is to say, the disc-looking chap that sits at the end of the fuel rail on the return line? All results I can find are talking (normally at cross purposes) about the Pressure Relief Valve, which is not the same thing. I was certain from Nige's manual that it says to cut off the nut that secures it to the rail (but in my version it doesn't actually explicitly say what the nut is for, though there is only one so not hard to work out). I was confident in this until I saw that Mr Fridge's build has it installed. Also noted on Fridge's build and something I like the idea of is the in-line filter on the return line to see quantity/quality of fuel going through but I need to find out where I stand on the regulator before I make any more changes to the fuel system.
  12. Oddly enough I have been reading your 'bigger shed' thread and have a much better understanding. I realise I'm covering old ground with my questions though. I want to use the oil cooler because A) I feel a lot more comfortable knowing every aspect of cooling is being taken care of, and B) I have an oil cooler on the Allisport rad and I'm determined to make use of it. I know there is plenty of evidence that its not essential and clearly you've found no problems without, but I'm pretty stubborn and all the bits are there. If I can get fittings in the right thread I'll be able to get somewhere with the pipes I've bought (after presumably making friends with somewhere that deals with hydraulic hoses). Onwards and upwards....
  13. So almost two years on, still grinding through this project. Apart from essentially every aspect of the MS system (which I wish I'd never started but that is a different issue), the things proving the biggest difficulty are the various pipes. Owing to the differences in the engine from the 3.5 to the 4.0 I can fully appreciate a mismatch but it seems there are differences depending from which vehicle the 4.0 was sourced. I don't just mean the location of the PAS pump, but things like the thread/hole size for the oil cooler pipes. We are talking about a company that used one door handle or one indicator design found across four or five different makes (thank you British Leyland) but it seems when it came to an engine that was basically unchanged for 2,000 years, they suddenly got all bespoke and you have to know which day of which month it was made on and the name of the firstborn of the guy that bolted the heads on to be sure if you have the right pin for the throttle linkage. I've foolishly spent a whole £20 on the pair of oil cooler pipes that are meant to fit the 4.0 Defender (anticipating that the routing might be different but I can at least use the ends) but no, they don't even screw in let alone fit around the steering pump etc. Long story short, i need pipes to suit a P38 4.0 from (I believe) 1996, going to Allisport radiator - just to complicate matters further because that was definitely a good idea... While I gained the knowledge of what goes where and what needs to be blanked from the previous posts, the issue of threads etc was not foreseeable and I'm not exactly sure how I can find which fittings will definitely fit without buying every version for every 4.0 model... Any help appreciated
  14. I applied Westerns method, it worked but it was truly horrific to watch. It seems unavoidable for the paint and galv not to crack slightly, especially on the thinner metal of the gearbox tunnel. I'm going to apply a high zinc content primer and repaint but it won't have the same protection, and these things are all in the areas that seem to attract rust first. Thanks for the help all, at least it gave me the confidence to just keep doing it.
  15. Hi Western, hadn't tried that, got to be worth a go. Thanks!