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Gearbox crossmember - how to remove?


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Not as stupid a question as it may seem.

I've removed the bolts, stuck a jack under it to break any rust/paint seal (saw some movement), whacked it with a hammer and the %&*$@ thing still won't come out. Or even significantly budge. 

Any suggestions? Please?

Worried that if it does come out I won't be able to get it back in. Which could be awkward.

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You can put a bottle jack on its side, and with some timber packing spread the chassis rails that way. 

Failing that, you normally just need a much bigger hammer - they are tight. 

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20 hours ago, Junglie said:

Marvellous. Thanks chaps - time to deploy The Most Dangerous Jack In Christendom then...

Pictures? 

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22 hours ago, ThreePointFive said:

Would you get enough swing on the handle for a hi lift underneath? Unless you're attacking from the top...

I found liberal application of grease helped slide mine back in. So to speak. 

Yep, I used a hi-lift trolley jack but it barely did more than crack the seal.

But the Most Dangerous Jack In Christendom (I think I'm going to patent that - it's actually fine as long as you're careful, but adds a certain frisson) will work - the whole floor and seat box is out so plenty of room in the cab.

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59 minutes ago, Junglie said:

Yep, I used a hi-lift trolley jack but it barely did more than crack the seal.

I think you may have missed the point - people are saying use a jack sideways to gently spread the chassis rails, then the crossmember should fall out under its own gravity.

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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:

I think you may have missed the point - people are saying use a jack sideways to gently spread the chassis rails, then the crossmember should fall out under its own gravity.

Yep, missed it completely.

But I'll be using this beastie:

IMG_1489.thumb.JPEG.ee80f7b7374dbcf14cc63179492fad3f.JPEG

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On 3/18/2024 at 5:21 PM, Junglie said:

This is The Most Dangerous Jack In Christendom. 

Only for people for whom a car is already too dangerous 😉

If you understand how it really works and keep it clean, then it is a very universal tool.

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5 hours ago, Sigi_H said:

Only for people for whom a car is already too dangerous 😉

If you understand how it really works and keep it clean, then it is a very universal tool.

It's brilliant and works very well. But like many other things with those undoubted benefits it is also intolerant of the careless, ill-informed or stupid.

For instance (and you may choose which of those criteria apply) I was jacking my Landy in the rain and did not consider that the handle would be slippery when wet. I managed to get most of myself out of the way when my hand slipped off the lever when lowering it and only caught myself a glancing blow, but it instilled a very healthy respect for the potential for proper injury. And resulted in my christening the tool with what I believe is still an appropriate name - it reminds me, you see, and I have been known to forget things...

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This is indeed the most dangerous situation, when the machanism is switched downways and you slip of the lever.

The Jack will work then like a Cuckoo clock which is powered by weight. The weight of the car will power the Jack and the lever will jump up and down like a balance wheel in a watch. Can hurt.

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Jesus fella, you said the other day you had sorted all that out, they are lethal to be fair and to be used only with respect, not that I'm trying to make light if it go on that YouTube site and have a look at the disasters that can happen, care and caution all the time with those bloody things mate, I think most would agree 

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Yep.  For all their practicality, flexibility and reliability, they have enormous potential for accidents.  They tend to be unstable when lifting vehicles, for a start, prone to tipping over and dropping said vehicle.  Never be in a position where the vehicle can fall on you with one of these things, and always use a block, axle stand or other “stand” once lifted.

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1 hour ago, Paddy_SP said:

When I had to do this recently I modified a spare sash cramp. Basically, it was late at night and I'd had a long day. But I had an MOT coming up, and needed the cross-member out of the way. I therefore grabbed one of the many sash cramps I've acquired from various boot sales over the years and knocked the rivets out of the fixed jaw. I then turned it around and bolted it back in place. I then reversed the moving jaw too - i.e. turning it to face the other way. Once I'd worked out which hole to put the pin in, I held the whole affair in place while I tightened the t-bar such that it pushed the chassis rails apart. One tip - if you're lying directly under the cross-member while you're doing it, it may drop out suddenly. If you were stupid enough to not leave at least one bolt in place, it'd drop out and land on your cheekbone, leaving you with a nasty cut and a black eye. Don't do that. It'd not only hurt like hell, but there would be clear evidence on your face for at least a week. Only a numpty working too many late hours would be stupid enough to do it...

That is a great idea thank you

Been a numpty with a highlift, gashed nose, black eye, ended up abandoning car until the following morning, life's lessons and all that

Regards Stephen

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I did something similar to this with a 750 Benelli motorcycle engine. Removing the engine, took the weight in my arms leaning over the frame, got my then girlfriend to pop the last mounting bolt out. Weight of engine immediately overwhelmed me and I ended up smashing my face into the frame and crushing my fingers under the engine.

Life lessons indeed... Plus she was laughing so hard she couldn't help for a few minutes.

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