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TomG

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    tom_gilmour@hotmail.com
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    http://www.highland4wheeldriveclub.co.uk/
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    Inverness

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  1. I use an angle grinder with cutting disc. Go fairly slow and carefully so it doesn't snag, square the end of the hose up by buffing it against the bottom of the disc. Rinse loose bits off with water. Smells a bit funny and leaves blue filings everywhere but is quick and works for me. Usual H&S stuff applies..
  2. Alternator in mine was playing up a while ago, headlights were flickering in sync with revs. Voltage was erratic between 12-16v. Took it off and put it in to Dave Riach for testing, no fault found. Turned out to be a loose ring terminal inside the alternator (under the plastic cover) - vibration was making it make/break.
  3. As far as i understand it's to control NOx emissions (NOx isn't tested as part of MOT on diesels) i think the valve closes (recirculates) on cruise and hot idle. It's open (no recirculation) on acceleration & full throttle so no difference to performance. EGRs have been known to clog up the inlet manifold with soot http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation
  4. Mine seemed to need bucketloads of fuel on AE, it doesn't respond properly otherwise. Tunerstudio has a nice realtime O2 gauge along the bottom for seeing if your AFR is too rich or lean during AE (you want it fairly consistant) which makes tuning it much easier. Nothing too non standard about my engine - no airbox though which may affect the intake? PID closed loop idle: I've not heard from KeithG in a couple of months - will ask if he has new code.
  5. MS1 controls a PWM valve such as VW/Audi Bosch 2-wire idle valve by pulsing the power to it on and off quickly (about 100 times per second) to regulate the air bypassing the butterfly, it tries to keep the RPM to a target value (closed loop control). You can have it either warm up only or run all the time - this is great for when additional loads kick in (e.g. alternator, hydraulic pump, powersteering, etc) also works quite well as an anti-stall on manuals - point it at a hill and take feet off pedals. The idle control algorythm MS1Extra uses work but is a bit primative and takes a bit of tuning.
  6. On mine, AE and the amount of extra fuel added is triggered by TPS (The MAP bit is greyed out). On MS1, AE can be controlled by TPS or MAP (i think MS2 can do a mixture - which is what the horizontal slider is for) The Rate column is the speed (volts per second) at which your right foot moves. TPS goes from 0v to 5v so 5v/s is going from no throttle to full in 1 second. The faster the movement, the more extra fuel Value (ms) column is added. AE is only triggered when the speed of TPS movement goes above the threshold.
  7. Try these AE Settings as a starter, tweak as necessary: TunerStudioMS uses a draggable graph which can make tuning AE easier and shows the curve nicely.
  8. Just a vote for: http://www.rakeway.co.uk/steering.htm very nicely made bit of kit. Runs normal bushes at either end (no rose joints) and the threaded adjuster in the middle allows the ends to be clocked round so they're sitting at rest and not permanently distorting the bushes as happens with the standard panhard and >2" lift.
  9. All tyres were aired down to <10psi (I know as i loaned the owner my pre-set stauns). The Pitbulls aren't the best in the mud, boggers would be a lot better but in fairness it wasn't built as a full on winch challenge comp truck but as something for estate owners, and the like to get up on the hill. It wasn't making full power as something was wrong with the turbo actuator and the exhaust manifold was blowing. It might have stood a chance in high box then. All sorted now from what i hear.
  10. Another source: http://www.openstreetmap.org/index.html?la...5.51&zoom=7 Work in progress though some parts seem fairly detailed. http://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/Romania
  11. This is exactly what i did, it's been running fine for years now, the majority of the air comes from the pipe from the throttle body on Rover V8 (upstream of the throttle plate). I wouldn't draw 100% of the air from the crankcase. I use a water separator / filter before the tank to remove any residue, nothing gets into the tyres (i have checked) though the air does have a bit of a 'whiff' to it Also ensures the aircon pump is breathing filtered air and, if you have a snorkel, is protected from inhaling water too. Biggest problem is the temperature of the air on the outlet - it degrades rubber air hose after a while.
  12. The rear output section (speedo housing & shaft) of the xfer box can be swapped with another in situ. undo the bolts and pull it out. The shaft is short with splines on the end which go into the centre diff.
  13. I thought the stock ECU would be running closed-loop under cruising conditions and adjust the fuel trims so the air/fuel mixture is around 14.7, is this still too lean or am I missing something? How would a remapped ECU change the fuelling in the cruise / closed-loop part of the fuel map as it will still correct to 14.7? (I realise the full throttle / open loop part and the transitions in fuelling across the map will be different)
  14. Daft question but how do you check the level?
  15. Couple of plus points for auto as i see them: Constant torque when powering up hills (if a constant speed can't be maintained due to trees, obstacles half way up). with a manual changing gear it's torque...no torque...torque, etc. if traction is borderline then easy to loose traction or dig down and come to a stop. Crawling up large rocks, steps, stumps, holding it on the balance point. Not really a problem with a manual and good clutch control but with the revs up can't can't help thinking of the clutch getting cooked alive! Auto can feather the torque from standstill with perfect control. Brake to forward movement is easy on an auto (if half way up a step), with no rollback, tricky on a manual and a requires a perfect working handbrake. Engine braking? no neeed! that's what the other pedal is for reminds me, not a fan of the 'feet off all the pedals' school of descent either! Part of the problem i think is that the hydraulically shifted boxes are a bit dumb.. shift points don't necessarily end up at the right place for the driving style / conditions and end up a compromise. It's the engine equivalent of carburettors! P38 HP24 boxes are getting cheap and more readily available, Compushift and similar are a very nice plug and play solution but a bit on the spendy side. Megasquirt for electro auto boxes.. it's in development: http://www.msgpio.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=4
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