Sammy_D

Work and spot lights

23 posts in this topic

Hey guys. I am looking to get some lights for the roof and a rear work light. Found on ebay a led rear work like that wires straight into the reverse light. No relay needed..

On the roof lights at the front I either want them so they come on with the full beam or a switch just for them

or.... can i have both?

If this question has been asked before im sorry but couldnt find anything under the search part.

Many Thanks

Sammy D

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you can have them on both, you need to know how to wire things up and be able to use your common sense.

a relay is needed and if the switch for the lights is in the wrong place it will either just be an isolator switch or it will bring main beam on aswell as the spotlights. even when you dont want them on.

ill do you a diagram and post it up.

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for the fuses, depending on the lights youre having:

2x 55W = 10A fuse

2x 100w = 15A fuse is normally fine, however the calculations suggest that the amperage they draw would be 16.66A

4x 55W = 20A fuse

4x 100W = 35A fuse

(edited: The formula is total Wattage/voltage)

e.g. 2x55w lights, 110W/12v = just under 10A so you add in an amp or 2 of safety margin

remember to use accordingly rated wires. and if you plan to add to the loom later on, account for the extra amperage in the wire rating.

i would also reccomend running a thick wire with suitable rating to an auxiliary fusebox somewhere in the cab or engine bay, with a feed to each fuse holder in the box. this means that when you come to add on accessories, you have a permenant fused live feed ready to take from and it makes the engine bay/cabin wiring a lot tidier. also plan to run all your wires along the same lines through the car, as it will make for neater work and you can wrap it in a nice loom.

hope i helped. :)

post-13725-0-25986700-1308497833_thumb.png

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mods, what you reckon to sticking that in helpful guides aswell at some point?

it could be useful to a lot of poeple :)

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thank you mate thats very helpfull need to get some lights now.

and to your last post i was thinking about like a How-to section. For all helpfull things from tyre change to fuse fitting lol

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Mikey, why not switch the relay with the manual switch, thus reducing the current requirement of the switch?

Or, you could use a On-Off-on switch, to have improved control.

These diagrams have all been posted before, See here, or search for 'relay'.

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that circuit is designed to come on with Main beam, without overloading the origional main beam circuit. and also to be able to switch the rooflights on/off seperatley to the headlights.

its just the standard, simple circuit everyone (well nearly everyone) uses when wiring up spotlights, just with the added wire and switch to enable you to switch them on seperately to the headlights. theyre wired that way because any other way and the headlights would come on with the spotlight switch which is not right.

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theyre wired that way because any other way and the headlights would come on with the spotlight switch which is not right.

Not true!

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but how would you do it then?

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that was just the simplest way that popped into my head at the time

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You could use a three position (3 terminal switch) on/off/on. The common terminal to the relay coil and then the other two terminals one would be from headlights and the other would be permanent 12v. That way when switched one way it would be on with the headlights and the other way it would be on permanent, and off would be off ..

one of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/160445166114

but preferably one with spades not screws

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you could, never thought of that way. means less switches <_<

but im right too :ph34r:

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Your way works perfectly Mikey, as they say there are may ways to skin a cat .... but which ever way you do it the cat still ends up skinned ;)

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Personally I can't see there's much point in wiring a rear worklamp into the reverse switch - unless you are only planning to actually only work at the back of the vehicle while in reverse.

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I agree with Steve, don't run the work light off the reverse light if you need add an extra reverse light add that but for work lights there is often a need to run your engine and then you won't be able to use the light!! If you are using one of the new LED lights and don't want to run a new feed you could take the live feed off your interior light.

However if I was you I would run at least a 16amp fused wire from the battery/fuse box to the back arch then bring it up where the lights come up you could then fit one or two 12v power sockets and continue the feed to the work light this give you more options later as you can then plug in fridges/work lights etc.

I ran a 30amp cable as when fitting the work-light I also fitted 2 12v sockets + DIN Socket I would also consider fitting a switch on the inside of your truck to isolate the work light even if it is switched or taking the original feed from a switched live circuit as I have come back to mine on several occasions to find that people have tried to switch them on, originally mine were on a switched live, now it's on a separate permatnaly live circuit I also have a waterproof external 12v socket that I intend to fit to my roof rack to give me some power to the roof tent.

Jason.

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I agree with Steve, don't run the work light off the reverse light if you need add an extra reverse light add that but for work lights there is often a need to run your engine and then you won't be able to use the light!!

Jason.

You could put the transfer box in neutral.....

Personally I'd have a dedicated switch, or maybe even have it so you can choose based on the suggested wiring for the spotlights. I wouldn't like the idea of the light coming on everytime I put it in reverse as it wouldn't always be needed.

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Personally I can't see there's much point in wiring a rear worklamp into the reverse switch - unless you are only planning to actually only work at the back of the vehicle while in reverse.

I use my rear work lamps when reversing into my parking space at home. At night it's surrounded by trees and therefore pitch black and sufficiently off road so as not to be a problem for other road users.

Kev

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Regarding roof lights, I prefer them to have a simple separate switch so that you can use them with dipped or main beam as suits the need. I believe it's illegal to use them on the road and was pulled over by the police once for momentarily testing their aim one night - only one other car on the road, quarter of a mile behind me and he just had to have roof lights that were blue and flashy! :rolleyes: I think that you are only allowed low wattage position lights up that high on road, as often seen on HGVs.

As for the work light, I fed mine from the spare terminal on the main lights switch that controls the side lights, head lights and tail lights. That spare terminal is only live when the side lights are selected, so when all the lights are off the work light will be unpowered, preventing accidental (or malicious) battery drain, and when headlights are on, the light is again unpowered preventing possible accidental activation while driving, blinding following vehicles.

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Regarding roof lights, I prefer them to have a simple separate switch so that you can use them with dipped or main beam as suits the need. I believe it's illegal to use them on the road and was pulled over by the police once for momentarily testing their aim one night - only one other car on the road, quarter of a mile behind me and he just had to have roof lights that were blue and flashy! :rolleyes: I think that you are only allowed low wattage position lights up that high on road, as often seen on HGVs.

As for the work light, I fed mine from the spare terminal on the main lights switch that controls the side lights, head lights and tail lights. That spare terminal is only live when the side lights are selected, so when all the lights are off the work light will be unpowered, preventing accidental (or malicious) battery drain, and when headlights are on, the light is again unpowered preventing possible accidental activation while driving, blinding following vehicles.

I'm with you on the legal thing but would also add that a worklight or spotlight must not be wired to the gearbox switch to operate automatically in reverse. It must have its own switch and warning light. Although there is no legal or MOT requirement to have reversing lights, if they are fitted they must comply with the law. It has been the practice for years that a single spot light is mounted on the boot lid of Minis but that does not mean its legal.

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yes, youre allowed side light type roof markers,

as my series 3 wants to be a lorry, i have orange roof markers and not been pulled up for them, theyre hard wired to my sidelights.

i did look it up and as far as wattage is concerned i think the limit is 5 watts, colour im not sure but as lorries run many colours, i decided that my mini lorry series 3 :ph34r: should have orange ones, and a rubber duck on the bonnet as a tribute to the film convoy :rolleyes: . (duck has now been removed as it was temporary)

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Work lights

I've just bolted one to a spare heavy duty jump lead clamp and wired it to about 7m of old trailer board cable I had lying about.

Plug it in to the trailer socket,sidelights on and I've got light where ever I need.

Rick

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I've wired the work light into the same circuit as the interior lights on my 90. My vehicle does not have door switches so the interior lights operate off a three position switch which also controls the instrument lights (this is standard Landrover wiring for late 80's/early 90's basic hard top models).

I've also wired the circuit through a latching relay which is operated in parallel with the central door locks so that the interior and work lights go off automatically when the doors are locked.

Nick.

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