V8 Newbie - Many Questions

[infinitydreams8]

Hi

I collected a 1985 3.5 V8 Ninety County Spec on Saturday!

Obviously I have several questions and will no doubt have many more over the next few months during my learning curve!

Questions :

1) I purchased some 10W 40 oil so I can do a oil change this weekend, is this the best oil for the V8?

2) I also purchased some SLICK 50 Engine treatment to add with the oil, does anyone have any reviews on this product?

3) The fuel gauge is slightly random and wanted to know how hard it is to fit a new sensor in the tank?

4) I think the starter motor might need a tinker, is it hard to clean the brushes or easier to fit a new motor?

That will do for now, any advice or help will be much apprieciated!

Cheers

James

[Coastcard]

Congratulations on a great choice and welcome.

Answers:

1) This is a hotly discussed topic, but assuming yours is the original engine, I would stick in something a bit thicker. The pumps not really designed for thin stuff.

2) FWIW, Snake oil is for when the engine is nearing the end of its life and you want to keep it going a bit longer. Any other time cure the source of any problem not the symptom. As a general guide V8's like regular oil changes, doing this will keep it happy.

3) Sorry don't know about 90's.

4) Could be just the solenoid, if not I would just swap it out. Get at it from underneath and 2 bolts holds it in. 15 minute job.

Most of the topics above are fairly well covered on here, so for further info, try a search.

Good luck

[ThreePointFive]

I'm using 10W40, as recommended by Land Rover, but hadn't heard of the issue described above so I'll have to look into that for the next oil change.

[FridgeFreezer]

1) I purchased some 10W 40 oil so I can do a oil change this weekend, is this the best oil for the V8?

They prefer 20W50 really - doesn't have to be posh oil, Comma stuff from the motor factors is fine. What they do like is *regular* oil & filter changes, this is far more important. Also, if the oil that's in it is very cruddy, run some Forte engine flush through it. Filters are only £3 each from Paddocks, I tend to buy 3 at a time so I've always got a spare to hand.

2) I also purchased some SLICK 50 Engine treatment to add with the oil, does anyone have any reviews on this product?

It's snake oil, happy reading

3) The fuel gauge is slightly random and wanted to know how hard it is to fit a new sensor in the tank?

Not too hard, I'd order a new retaining ring with the sender as you're bound to knacker the old one up getting it out.

4) I think the starter motor might need a tinker, is it hard to clean the brushes or easier to fit a new motor?

Depends what way it's playing up - often the solenoids stick (no click when you turn the key) or fail, they're £12 from paddocks and cheaper than a new starter. A thwack with a hammer also frees them up temporarily

[ThreePointFive]

Digging up this topic again as I'm getting the engine oil changed, I was recommended to use 5W30 by a bloke at Land Rover, knowing nothing about oil viscosity, will this be suitable?

[FridgeFreezer]

Digging up this topic again as I'm getting the engine oil changed, I was recommended to use 5W30 by a bloke at Land Rover, knowing nothing about oil viscosity, will this be suitable?

Sounds way too thin - perhaps on the later serpentine engines but not for yours. 20W50 or 15W40 is what you want. Most LR dealers these days wouldn't know about anything beyond 5 or 10 years old at a push, which puts almost everything with the old V8 out of the picture.

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

IMVHO

Fit new filter and 20/50W Valvoline VR1 oil, thats the best oil for a V8 by far and I am not the only one to say this, those who know far far far more than me rate this stuff, and frankly that is good enough for me. Its not a fortune,

DO NOT shove 10/40W synethic or cheap 20/50w in, the oil is the blood of any engine - get it right

Nige

[ThreePointFive]

Yeah, new filter is a must. When you say cheap, I assume you mean the less well known/own brand stuff? Anything that makes the engine last longer...

[FridgeFreezer]

I use Comma oil, it's available in almost every motor factors and is about as cheap as I'm willing to go.

ASDA sell 20W50 for £5/5L but I wouldn't trust that to be any better for your engine than using ASDA baked beans

[wkw90]

I use Comma oil, it's available in almost every motor factors and is about as cheap as I'm willing to go.

ASDA sell 20W50 for £5/5L but I wouldn't trust that to be any better for your engine than using ASDA baked beans

Would it be ok to use Heinz beans then

[Quagmire]

I think cheap oil was what finished off my end cap bearings on my 2.25, although i cannot prove it- that was also about £5 for 5l.

My Dad uses the 20w50 Tesco oil in his 101, although this is more like £1.50/l This has run fine for years on the stuff. The idea being use cheaper oil and change it more frequently than more expensive high mileage stuff as the Rv8's are killed off by letting the condition of the oil slip. I too was using this oil in both my 2.25 for years with no issues until the temptation of the above mentioned very cheap oil got me.

Last check in the 101 rocker covers it was lovely in there

But we have also heard that Valvoline is supposed to be the dogs danglies too.

I'm currently rebuilding a v8 (when time and money allow) to fit to my 90, i was going to go the Tesco route for my oil...

Each to their own i guess, but there is such a thing as too cheap

[ThreePointFive]

I had a look in 3 seperate auto places, none had what I would regard as a main brand of 20W50 (Castrol, Mobil, etc)... Prices ranged from £9.50 for 4.5L to £15 for 5L, but that was halford's own brand...

The three types I found where all "formulated for older higher milage vehicles". Should the cheapness and lack of a recognisable brand, besides Halfords own brand (who seem to be hit and miss on quality of other items) be ringing alarm bells, or should I just get the best deal of the lot?

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Oil is not just oil - its a science.

Valvoline 20/50w is incredibly "Sticky" and its NOT synthetic (DO NOT USE THIN SYNTHEICS in a V8 )

I pay about £18-21 (it varies ) for a gallon of it, but it does protect V8s a treat worth the extra IMHO

However, buy some really cheap oil and a can of Forte engine cleaner (NOTHING else) shove cheap 20/50 oil in and a tin of Forte in

go for 20 mins blast drain instantly on return - then change filter and add the Valvoline

Nige

[ThreePointFive]

Where can you buy the Valvoline stuff? Had a quick look on google and basically the result is the valvoline site with no prices and forums telling people to buy it, but nowhere that sells it!

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

VALVOLINE OIL COMPANY

Dock Road, Birkenhead,

Wirral, CH41 1DR, United Kingdom

Contact: Customer Service, Mr. Vincent Tyres, Mr. Tony Lowe

Telephone: +44 15 16 52 15 51

Fax: +44 15 16 53 89 00

E-mail: valvoline.uk@ashland.com

I phoned them and they gave me local stockists to me

Nige

[Bull Bar Cowboy]

Where can you buy the Valvoline stuff? Had a quick look on google and basically the result is the valvoline site with no prices and forums telling people to buy it, but nowhere that sells it!

I get mine from ALS on the Marsh Barton Trading Est in Exeter ................they are valvoline main agents............

Ian

[FridgeFreezer]

As I said, I use Comma oil - it's trade stuff, does what it says on the tin. Not overly glamorous but not rubbish, and reasonably priced. Most motor factors stock it.

Failing that Castrol GTX / Magnatec 15W40 I believe Ian found was a good option, readily available and cheap enough whilst still being thick enough.

Granted Nige you're probably right to use expensive oil in your expensive engine but for more normal blocks a more normal oil should suffice I think.

Ian's original post

I guess this post should start with ……………. Where’s Rick the Oz when you need him ! ………. That guy is an oil encyclopaedia ……..

Oil choice is quite difficult as none of the old established ‘names’ make a straight 20w – 50.

Yes, there are plenty of supposedly 20w – 50 oils out there that are £5 a gallon and a supplier that I have never heard of ! …………. I usually refer to these as lesser quality oils.

This engine is 1990, so its 17 years old ………….. but also the engine is a 50 year old design, however, for now we can say that the engine machining tolerances are a 20 year old design.

Over the last few years, oil technology has come on a long way ………. 20 / 25 years ago the only synthetic of note was Mobil 1 ……….. expensive and totally unsuitable for this application …………..

Today we have several oils from leading manufacturers to consider ……… the likes of Castrol, Mobil, Fuchs (including silkolene) …………. Redline is also available, but only from specialist outlets and the UK range is limited.

My last build was in 2002 and I spent a long while investigating and deciding which oil would be best suited to the application ………….

After several phone calls to the leading oil company tech departments, I found Castrol UK to be the most interested and very forthcoming with information. I remember the guy was interested in the application , projected oil temp……… talked about long periods of slow running etc.………. the guy also took time to look up detail on the RV8 and commented about cam wear etc …….Castrol recommended Magnatec 15W – 40, which is a semi synthetic. Castrol even went to the trouble of sending me 8 litres to try ………

[disco_al]

definately recommend the Forte products, bung a can of the fuel system treatment through it too, will clean the lines etc then as well.

we sell unipart branded oil here (made by Fuchs) for £11.05 a gallon for 15/40 mineral.

[ThreePointFive]

Thanks for all the info guys, much appreciated. I'll use the Magnatec 15W40 this time around and then try this Valvoline stuff for the next change.