tommi Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Hi I plan to move the fuel and water temperature gauge from their original position in my 200tdi defender. Can I just cut all the wires, and extend them as nessacary? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megansfolly Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 there enough there already u may need to take the tape off that binds the wires togeather Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Don't cut the wires. Use a proper Lucar connector woth the proper sleeve to lengthen them. Keep to the correct wire colour codes as well. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zulublue Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Just extend the wires using a correct connector, you can always easily remove them if need. Are you building your own dash? I just swapped my gauges over and if I need more I will add pods to the top of the dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Just extend the wires using a correct connector, you can always easily remove them if need.Are you building your own dash? I just swapped my gauges over and if I need more I will add pods to the top of the dash. Where did ya get the guages from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Not a hijack but an associated query. Is the suggestion that using Lucar terminals (from what I can see VWP uninsulated terminals) preferable to crimp terminals? If so is this because you can pop a dob of solder where the wire sits in the connector and then crimp down and pull insulator over? If not, then why/how? Interested since about to start on new wiring project for The Beastie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Not a hijack but an associated query. Is the suggestion that using Lucar terminals (from what I can see VWP uninsulated terminals) preferable to crimp terminals?If so is this because you can pop a dob of solder where the wire sits in the connector and then crimp down and pull insulator over? If not, then why/how? Interested since about to start on new wiring project for The Beastie. This is the way I've done it for years. First o my rally cars now my Defender. Some people say you shouldn't solder bedcause it makes the joint brittle. I've not as yet had that problem. My crimpers are the cheap ones. I've had them for longer than I can remember. I would suggest if you are just starting wiring work you buy the expensive ratchet type from either VWP or elsewhere. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zulublue Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Where did ya get the guages from? Click Here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 good quaility crimp terminals always work for me along with my ratchet crimp pliers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Thanks for responses I have ratchet crimp thingy but have also used solder on uninsulated terminals for radio work. I just wondered if any difference. I have found a lot of variability in the quality of the connectors - bought one batch of the Scr***ix web site - very cheap but never again! Have to say I think I preferred the aesthetics of the soldered connector with soft pvc cover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 I would cut the wires and splice in some extra length with solder and heatshrink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 should be sufficent wire within the gauge loom to allow you to move them over to the next hole, that's all I did with my fuel/temp gauges to give up the nearest the speedo hole for my rev counter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 ^^ - I agree, and: - Crimp, solder, heatshrink and cover for connections exposed to the elements, mud, etc. When I bought my 18 year old 90, nearly all the rear tub, headlamp and engine bay wiring had "rusted" through, where water had got under the insulation and I was left with thin tubes of verdigris. Anything you can do to stop this is a good idea! - Crimp, solder and cover for connections inside, - Always extend or add wires (if you have to) with the right colour code wire, then you'll be able to trace faults, we'll be able to help and your next-owner-karma will be preserved, - I use a £2 crimp tool when I can find it and a pair of needle nose pliers when I can't - works for me. - A good source of quality connectors is your local auto electrical professional: value in bulk too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 ^^ - I agree, and:- Crimp, solder, heatshrink and cover for connections exposed to the elements, mud, etc. When I bought my 18 year old 90, nearly all the rear tub, headlamp and engine bay wiring had "rusted" through, where water had got under the insulation and I was left with thin tubes of verdigris. Anything you can do to stop this is a good idea! - Crimp, solder and cover for connections inside, - Always extend or add wires (if you have to) with the right colour code wire, then you'll be able to trace faults, we'll be able to help and your next-owner-karma will be preserved, - I use a £2 crimp tool when I can find it and a pair of needle nose pliers when I can't - works for me. - A good source of quality connectors is your local auto electrical professional: value in bulk too! Why ??? That is a sure way to make problems later in the life of the vehicle. The word BOTCH comes to my mind with those sort of non fixes. Maybe I'm old fashioned but I like to see PROPER connectors on wires. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Why ???That is a sure way to make problems later in the life of the vehicle. The word BOTCH comes to my mind with those sort of non fixes. Maybe I'm old fashioned but I like to see PROPER connectors on wires. I didn't specify a connector ... ? I use Lucar, rings, bullets (to match the originals) and multiway plugs (ditto) and IFAIK haven't changed the type of connector used at any location. All I've ever done is make the wire-to-connector junction more robust. I've even resisted the temptation to use thin wall wire. LR appear (in 1988 anyway) to solder the bullets on, why can't I? If I have offended the LandRover gods, forgive me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisM_110 Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 - Crimp, solder, heatshrink and cover for connections exposed to the elements, mud, etc. When I bought my 18 year old 90, nearly all the rear tub, headlamp and engine bay wiring had "rusted" through, where water had got under the insulation and I was left with thin tubes of verdigris. Anything you can do to stop this is a good idea!- Crimp, solder and cover for connections inside, - Always extend or add wires (if you have to) with the right colour code wire, then you'll be able to trace faults, we'll be able to help and your next-owner-karma will be preserved, - I use a £2 crimp tool when I can find it and a pair of needle nose pliers when I can't - works for me. - A good source of quality connectors is your local auto electrical professional: value in bulk too! Excellent advice, I would add that a ratchet crimper will make a massive difference to your connection security. It makes it so easy to get a good connection compared to the cheapo crimps it's silly not too. If it's a connection likely to vibrate [i.e. engine bay] it's safer not to rely on solder alone as this can apparently lead to joint fracture. I think Mike may have a wasp stuck in his trousers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 Excellent advice, I would add that a ratchet crimper will make a massive difference to your connection security. It makes it so easy to get a good connection compared to the cheapo crimps it's silly not too.If it's a connection likely to vibrate [i.e. engine bay] it's safer not to rely on solder alone as this can apparently lead to joint fracture. I think Mike may have a wasp stuck in his trousers. No wasp. I use either Lucar connectors, male and female. Bullit connectors also. Aolthough recently I've started to change to all Lucar connectors with the connector block VWP supply. I use old cheap crimpers. I recomend that anybody starting get the expensive ratchet type. They do a better crimp. I also solder the connector. Makes for a good joint. Just a dab of solder so it doesn't get right up the wire and make it brittle, then it will snap at the connector, That's why I don't like to see two wires solderd together. The solder makes the joint brittle which can lead to failure. HTH mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommi Posted July 23, 2009 Author Share Posted July 23, 2009 Thanks for all your help regarding how to rewire the gauges. I have now finished the dashboard, so here are a few pictures. This is what I started with a couple of days ago: I've relocated the fuel gauge and water temperature gauge to a pod, in the middle of the dash: I've installed 3 new gauges into the display panel; a turbo boost gauge, water temperature gauge and a voltmeter. The gauges came from the same place as zulublue got his, Mcgill Motorsport. The gauges LED, and really give a vivid display, even in bright sunlight. I've left the original water temperature gauge in the centre pod, mainly because I don't have any more gauges to fit. It will probably be replaced with a clock at some point. I also took the opportunity to replace the bulbs in the existing gauges with blue LEDs. I will take some pictures tonight in the dark, so you can see the difference they make. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zulublue Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 Looks great Tommi Is the Turbo boost gauge easy to fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommi Posted July 23, 2009 Author Share Posted July 23, 2009 Looks great TommiIs the Turbo boost gauge easy to fit? Looks to be, I haven't actually connected it up yet, as the T-piece supplied with the gauge is slightly too small for the turbo hose. This is a useful thread: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=2104 As its digital, the hose goes to a sensor, which I have put in the engine bay. Then its just one wire from the sensor to the gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommi Posted July 23, 2009 Author Share Posted July 23, 2009 Couple of pictures in the dark. The LED bulbs in the speedo are such an improvement over the old ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Couple of pictures in the dark. The LED bulbs in the speedo are such an improvement over the old ones. I like those. Good work. Whats best for a turbo boost gauge Bar or PSI? or does it not really matter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommi Posted July 24, 2009 Author Share Posted July 24, 2009 I like those. Good work.Whats best for a turbo boost gauge Bar or PSI? or does it not really matter? Doesn't matter as far as I'm aware. Fit whichever you fancy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 Why have 2 water temp gauges, ditch the original & fit a oil temp instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommi Posted September 20, 2009 Author Share Posted September 20, 2009 Why have 2 water temp gauges, ditch the original & fit a oil temp instead. I've left the original water temperature gauge in the centre pod, mainly because I don't have any more gauges to fit. It will probably be replaced with a clock at some point. I'm still on the lookout for a cheap 52mm clock... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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