nickwilliams Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Does anyone have any pictures to show what the central locking version of the door lock on the post 2002 Defender rear door looks like, please? Paddocks give the part number as FUB500050 but I can't find any pictures of this item on the web. I'm looking at replacing my back door with a new one and would want to add central locking. I'm wondering how compatible this part is with the actuators I have already got. Nick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 I don't have any pictures but have done the same conversion. There are images in the parts book that give a rough outline of the arrangement. The actuator sits more or less in the centre of the door pointing diagonally up at the top of the lock mechanism. The lock mechanism has a short control wire that comes out of the top of it and this connects to a plastic T shaped bracket which is used to change the direction of pull through 90 degrees. A long wire runs from the other side of this plastic bracket to the actuator. If you get the LR parts it's easy to install. The bracket uses a plastic rivet arrangement to secure it to the door and act as a pivot point - I didn't realise that when I installed mine and it took me a couple of attempts to get it secure enough that it didn't fall out after a few operations. One other thing to be aware of when converting is that the new style door lock mechanism uses a completely different lock barrel that is not compatible with the older design (it's about 10mm longer). About 18 months ago I put a post up on here somewhere showing the differences between the lock barrels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 See this post for a picture of the 2002-on setup with CDL motor etc. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=65009&view=findpost&p=560998 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickwilliams Posted April 6, 2011 Author Share Posted April 6, 2011 Thanks, Dave. Retroanaconda: I don't believe that any of the pictures in those threads actually show the genuine LandRover solution. None of them have the actuator rod coming out at an angle as described by DaveW, nor do they appear to use a genuine LandRover lock motor. They are all quite neat home-brew solutions, but none of them show the parts I will get if I go to Paddocks and buy a FUB500050. I've found this on e-bay which is the right lock, but I'd still be interested to see a picture of complete fitted arrangement. Nick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickwilliams Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 Well, I went to Paddocks today, and purchased a FUB500050 lock (which came in a genuine LR parts box). Here are a couple of pictures: What I had not previously realised was that the actuator rod comes out of the *top* of the lock, not the bottom, which confirms what I said in my previous post - that none of the pictures in the threads linked to by Retroanaconda are pucker LandRover arrangements. I've also bought a new steel door, and with a forecast for warm weather this weekend I'm hoping to get it sprayed so with a bit of luck in a couple of weeks I'll have a complete door ready to fit. When it's done I'll take some pictures of the setup and post them to this thread. Nick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickwilliams Posted April 8, 2011 Author Share Posted April 8, 2011 A note for the record: the part number of this lock is actually FUB500060, not FUB500050. Nick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Interesting. I recall seeing a photo a while back of a rear door setup with the actuator at an angle in the centre of the door, and the cam thing mounted above the lock. To translate the force in the required direction for the lock. Perhaps that is the proper setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Interesting. I recall seeing a photo a while back of a rear door setup with the actuator at an angle in the centre of the door, and the cam thing mounted above the lock. To translate the force in the required direction for the lock. Perhaps that is the proper setup? You mean exactly as I described it in my reply ? If it will help I may get a chance this weekend to whip the cover off the rear door and take some pictures. I'm sure I've seen pictures of it in a parts book somewhere but haven't been able to find it so maybe I dreamt it ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickwilliams Posted April 8, 2011 Author Share Posted April 8, 2011 If it will help I may get a chance this weekend to whip the cover off the rear door and take some pictures. Yes, that would certainly help Dave! Nick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Interesting. I recall seeing a photo a while back of a rear door setup with the actuator at an angle in the centre of the door, and the cam thing mounted above the lock. To translate the force in the required direction for the lock. Perhaps that is the proper setup? An image from RAVE shows the solenoid placed in the middle at an angle next to the motor. I imagine this might be the proper setup, being indicated in an offical document? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 Here's a couple of pics from my iPhone showing the assembly in both locked and unlocked positions... I used the LR loom as it includes all the wiring for the back door in one loom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickwilliams Posted May 3, 2011 Author Share Posted May 3, 2011 Having now got the rear door lock parts fitted and working, I thought I'd post a follow-up to complete the story for anyone which wants to try the same modification. Note that this thread describes the fittings for a new one-piece all steel door. This uses a slightly smaller window glass than the older style aluminium skinned steel frame door. The new style window is held in place with a rubber sealing strip (same as for the windscreen) instead of with aluminium channel, and has more rounded corners. The part numbers are CQB000150 for the glass (heated, for doors without high level stop lamp) and CVW500010 for the glazing seal. Here is the glass fitted into the door: Other parts which you will require (in addition to the door lock, FUB500060, as shown above) are as follows: Lock barrel, CWC500190: The "bell crank" which goes above the lock to connect the actuating rod from the motor in the centre of the door (part number is FQF000040): Door lock seal, FRN500020: Lock barrel bush, EKC000030PMA: You will also need a piece of steel rod to make the diagonal actuator rod (from the lock motor to the bell crank). I used a piece of 308 Stainless 3.2 mm dia TIG welding wire, cut to length and bent at each end. I did not use a LandRover door lock motor, since I already had a set of motors from another project. Here is the motor I used, mounted to a plate which locates it at the correct angle in the centre recess of the door: LandRover mount the motor on a plate secured with one M6 bolt (into a nutsert fitted in the door) and a plastic rivet into a second hole (shown on the right side of the mounting plate in the RAVE extract posted above). I drilled the plastic rivet hole out and inserted another nutsert so my motor is held in place with two M6 bolts. Here is the door with all of the parts, including the actuating rods, fitted: Any questions? Nick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 Nice job Nick. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsj1979 Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Do you know if the locking mechanism will fit from an earlier door? I'm weighing up the pros and cons of upgrading from an earlier door but if the locking mechanism won't fit I'll end up with one different key which maybe the deciding factor in keeping the earlier door... unless the one piece door is a worthwhile upgrade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 The door lock from an earlier door fits the later. I think the later is a huge improvement in strength and rigidity. I guess if you wanted the central locking lock with an old barrel, you'd have to cannabilise both locks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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