Mutley Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 Right due to other issues may need to renew rear inner hub seals? So i have checked with Mr. Haynes, can only find info on rear hub bearing renewal and rear stub axle remove and refit, but both seem to get me where i need to be for the inner hub seal?.... When putting back together Haynes states checking "End Float" with some gadget???....Plus there is a section with ref. to Spacers and sizes???.... Can some one please educate me as to what i need and what i need to do with it? Plus any info or advise on how to change the inner hub seal would be appreciated. I was hoping changing the inner hub seal was going to be straight forwadr as there is both sides to do. Thanks Mutley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 The "gadget" In question is a dial test indicator, Personally I've never used one of these and always had good success just by tourqing(sic?) it up as per the torque settings in the manual,this is with regards to the first hub nut that is!, The secondary hub nut however-after the locking tab washer is put on gets hammered with a deep 52mm impact socket and a windy gun, this for me works very well indeed, Ok, I appreciate I'll have questions/ear ache over the way I do-It but It works for me, If we all did the same procedures the same way with any of our vehicles/equipment etc. then we wouldn't need a forum to ask questions and relate to one of the manuals available elsewhere John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 Does this help ?It's an old post of mine. Slacken road wheel nuts. Jack up vehicle and place on axle stand. Remove road wheel. Remove either brake calliper from the axle,or the brake drum from the hub. Remove the halfshaft.Be ready to catch any oil!!! Now you should see the retaining nuts held by the lock washer. Knock back the lock washer. Remove the first nut. Remove the second nut. Catch the outer bearing before it falls to the ground,you might need to waggle the hub for this bearing to fall out. Pull the hub off. __________________________________________________ __________ To remove the outer bearing race. Clean up the inside of the hub,at this stage it doesn't need to be perfect. Lay the hub face down on a piece of wood. You should be able to see the two cut outs in the hub that allows you to use a drift on the outer race to drift the race out. Drift the race out working from side to side then all the way round. Turn the hub over and do the other race. Clean everything up and read my post on adjusting wheel bearings. You will need A hub nut spanner.Craddocks or Paddocks and Difflock sell them. You will also need a new oil seal and depending on the year a hub gasket. I'mm assuming the hub is off and both the bearings removed and the new/clean outer tracks are fitted into the hub. First thing. Pack the bearings with a good quality grease. Now the manufacturers say don't pack,just put a cover onto the rollers.Well the manufacturer is there to SELL bearings. To pack the bearing. Hold the bearing with the roller track in your hand.Tend to push the rollers away from the track.Push grease into the back of the rollers until you have grease at the other end of the rollers.Continue round the bearing until all the rollers are full of grease.Drop the bearing into the track. Fit the oil seal. Oil Seal. Now if you Off Road a lot take a good look at the seal fitment.Can you get two seals into the place where there should be only one?If so fit two seals.One to retain the grease,fitted correctly.The other to stop water ingress when you wade,this seal is fitted the "wrong" way. Some people used to fit the seal the wrong way to stop the water ingress,I can't comment on that trick as I've never tried it. Please be careful when you do this,It's your fault if it goes wrong!!!!! I use an oild seal with the lip cut off to knock the new seal in I'll digress..... When I rallyed my Imp.I was knocking front wheel bearings out every rally.That was less that 200 miles. We had a visit to work from the Wynns rep.I told him my problem.He went to his car and producee a small jar off additive."Mix that with your grease and you not have any more problems" I did and I had no more problems.I still have that grease,I use it only on my car. So a talk to Winns might help. So you have the inner bearing and oil seal fitted. Pack the other bearing. Put the hub onto the stub axle and place the other bearing into place. Then the spacer. Now the nut. We are now going to set the bearing WITHOUT a Dti!!!! You will have the choice of either a box spanner with a tommy bar through or a socket.For starters I would suggest that those with a socket use an extension with a hole through so you can use a tommy bar. Tighten the nut up.Not tight but enough to stop the hub turning and spread the grease. Now back off the nut about an eighth of a turn.all the time turning the hub. The hub should turn nice and easily without any percievable end movement. Fit the lock washer then the lock nut. The lock nut needs to be tight but not over tight.See my later comments. Bend the lock washer in on one flat of the inner nut and out onto a flat of the lock nut. Digression. When I worked at the Ford Main Dealer I worked on Transits.I think the front bearing nut was 1 1/16 AF. I used to use a 3/8 drive speed brace to set the bearings.The speed brace just nipped the bearings at the right pressure. Now when I do my hubs.I generally use just my water pump pliers to do all the adjusting.Very rarely do I use a socket!!! Get out. I've given this in good faith. If you do it wrong,don't blame me!!!!! _________________ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 Right due to other issues may need to renew rear inner hub seals? So i have checked with Mr. Haynes, can only findinfo on rear hub bearing renewal and rear stub axle remove and refit, but both seem to get me where i need to be for the inner hub seal?.... When putting back together Haynes states checking "End Float" with some gadget???....Plus there is a section with ref. to Spacers and sizes???.... Can some one please educate me as to what i need and what i need to do with it? Plus any info or advise on how to change the inner hub seal would be appreciated. I was hoping changing the inner hub seal was going to be straight forwadr as there is both sides to do. Thanks Mutley the reference to spacers is for Td5 axles only, they use spacers to set the end float & a big nut which is staked into the axle to lock it, Mikes guide above is what you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 Mutley, have you got a Td5? in which case yours will have the spacers between the bearings and a single nut rather than the earlier type with two nuts and a lock washer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted June 22, 2013 Author Share Posted June 22, 2013 Thanks for the info mmgemini i will work to that....... And the answer to your question Landroversforever is no it's a good old bullet proof 300tdi (Sadly i'm running out of Bullets though) Thanks again guys Mutley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted June 22, 2013 Author Share Posted June 22, 2013 Foregot to ask.... Besides renewing hub seals is there any other item(s) i will need ie new gaskets locking nut washers or do you just put what bits you have back on? If it's best to replace some thing i would rather do that than take a chance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 I prefere to use new locking washers. The reason being that the old washer, although hammered flat, can at times move the first nut into the wrong place upsetting the bearing torque. I buy my lock washers in packs of 10. Did I say, Fit firsdt nut, lock washer, then second nut toghtened to the lock washer, then turn the tabs. I buy the halfshaft gaskets in packs of ten. When I fit the gaskets, I grease them, nothing else. That way when you come to pull the halfshaft. The gasket just peels off. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 new lock washers & seals & drive member gaskets, if the bearings are in good condition, there's no reason why you can't clean/inspect/relube & refit them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 If I have to change a wheel bearing, then I change both of them at the same time-brand new genuine hub seal too John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 if you need new wheel bearings, Timken are probably the best LR part number RTC3429 Timken part numbers LM603049 [bearing] & LM603011 [outer race] comes in one box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 If I have to change a wheel bearing, then I change both of them at the same time-brand new genuine hub seal tooJohn I do the same, so I then know that corner is all as good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted June 23, 2013 Author Share Posted June 23, 2013 I was thinking of doing the wheel bearings while i was in there, so thanks for the heads up on the make and part numbers guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Do not, under any circumstances, use bearings that come in a blue box! Though I have used blue box seals with no problems at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Use Timken or NSK bearings. You will get them cheaper from your bearings specialist than through a car parts supplier. The bearing numbers on the outer race will be the same for any manufacturer: that number specifies the dimensions and loadings of the bearing design. When doing up the hub nuts, I use a very simple method which has served well for decades - I use the box spanner (the tube with flats as sold by Paddocks and others). I put the hub on with the bearings, plus any appropriate spacer washers depending on which vehicle it is, then the first nut. I do the first nut up with a single hand grip on the box spanner and turn the hub over several times in each direction to seat the bearings. Once satisfied the bearings are seated, I slacken the nut and then tighten it with the box spanner, covered in grease and using a grip with one hand as tight as you would shake hands with. This way, I find it gives a very good preload without overtightening. Then the locking washer goes on, and the second nut is tightened as much as possible using a 1' bar through the box spanner before bending the lock washer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 I have in my clean hands... Hub seal FTC 4785 Lock washer FTC 3179 These come in sealed packs of 5. I haven't figured that out yet. Gasket. FRC 3988. Now these are Britpart ones...There was a discussion on here some time ago. I have thick Britpart gaskets, somebody else had thibk Land Rover ones. My Land rover ones are thin..Go figure.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 make your own gaskets with proper paper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 make your own gaskets with proper paper A couple of years ago, ASDA were selling Christmas wrapping paper. The "tube" that the wrapping paper was round, made ideal gasket paper. I ofton use Manila envelopes. Weetabix box card is ideal for the thicker card type gasket.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 When the last time I went to an autojumble-beaulieu I think, I bought a roll of 1mm thickness gasket paper, I was taught by an old school mechanic how to make them-saves mucking about having to order them and most of what I've ordered in the past has been utter rubbish anyway John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted June 24, 2013 Author Share Posted June 24, 2013 Great I have to go back to eating WEETABIX again!?!......Had just got the hang of shredded wheat too!.... That's the trouble with this Land Rover game they keep changing things, one minute you're happily chewing your way through a tube of Smarties only to be told that's too thick and you need to be using Christmas paper like it's going out of fashion!.... Is it any wander I need help with the thing !?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Great I have to go back to eating WEETABIX again!?!......Had just got the hang of shredded wheat too!.... That's the trouble with thisLand Rover game they keep changing things, one minute you're happily chewing your way through a tube of Smarties only to be told that's too thick and you need to be using Christmas paper like it's going out of fashion!.... Is it any wander I need help with the thing !?! you've got lots of help with the LR, it's just you that can't be helped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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