Gromit

Are you talking about the bronze bush inside the stub axle?

So I've a new bearing in, and it's still making noise Time for Plan B

Thanks all for the info. I've pulled the bearing. With it cleaned up and on the bench, there's a tiny amount of roughness in it, so we'll see if it really is the cause of all the noise New bits ordered from Ashcrofts, cheap too Should have them in a few days. Will report back when it's back together.

Well I thought all the vibration was the wear in the swivel pin. After rebuilding the swivel, it seems not. I've got some knocking vibration, at prop speed, most noticeable on overrun. I can feel it in the cab. I thought it was the front prop, but having removed it, it's still there. With a front wheel on a jack (prop back on) and spinning in reverse the knocking seems to be coming from the front output bearing on the transfer box, though it's hard to pinpoint. Listening with a screwdriver the noise is difficult to locate but seems to be more from the main box. With a rear wheel spinning on a jack there's no noise, so I reckon it's the front part of the transfer box. Just changed the oil in the box and there's no change. So, could the front bearing fail in this way, giving lots of vibration? What else is there in the T-box that could give these symptoms? I guess I'll pull it and see. Where do you get replacements? I didn't see any mention on Ashcrofts. Cheers all for your help. Another LR saga week. Work are never going to see me again at this rate

Are you sure it's coming from the rear of the vehicle? If the bearings are fine and the noise goes away when you touch the brakes, then it sounds like a binding brake shoe/pad.

Remove the centre trim. Loosen the nut all the way, but do not remove it. Jump up and down while hanging on to alternate sides of the steering wheel until it comes off the splines. WD40 can help. If it really won't move then you'll need to make a puller. In answer your other questions: Play generally can't be adjusted out of the steering, apart from the steering box. If it's a track rod end that is dead, they are available cheaply, though getting them out of the track rod can be fun. The front rod is the tie rod. One end has a TRE at the wheel, the other end has a ball joint at the bottom of the drop arm on the steering box. Which joint is worn? The indicators are cancelled by a (blue) collar that engages with 2 tabs on the steering wheel. Check the operation of the collar when the steering wheel off. There's an arrow on the collar, which IIRC has to point to the indicator switch. The handbrake should first be adjusted via the cam adjuster on the rear of the drum, i.e. opposite side to the propshaft. It's 13mm I think. Hand brake off, jack up one rear wheel. Check it rotates freely. Adjust the cam until it binds then back it off a 1/4 turn. If the handbrake lever then doesn't give you full handbrake at about 4-5 clicks, then adjust the nuts under the centre seat. Fluid levels just remove the fill plug and make sure it's full Best to change them though if the truck is new to you. power steering has a dip stick on the lid.

I just used standard 8mm fuel pipe, pushed over the ends of the existing plastic pipe if needed, or preferably fitted directly to the banjo.

Water flows from the rear of the block, into the heater matrix and then returns via the pipe on the LH (vehicle) side of the head. 60 degrees sounds very low. I've a temperature switch on the return line from the matrix and it switches on at 60 degrees after about 1 mile driving, around 1/3 on the temp gauge.

I recall that the Haynes has the positions of the 200tdi piston ring gaps, where as the work shop manual does not In fairness, the LR Haynes can help a fair bit, once you have a modicum of salt. Tom, the parts catalog and work shop manuals are available for download and worth getting, once you've found your truck.

Welcome to the forum. Last month I spent a few days in Seix, which looks to be about 2 hours west of you. Wasn't off road, but it's a great place of the world and looks like a 4x4 wonderland

Welcome to the forum Tom. If you haven't already found the tech archive, there's loads of info in there. heres a basic buying guide to buying a defender. As other have said, try and drive a few to get a feel for what's good and what's not. It's very tempting to buy the first one you find, but try and resist and find one in good nick that suits you.

compared to the pattern ones, that are utter pants. There are about 2 quid new, which says it all.

For the work involved in stripping the swivel to change the bearing, I'd change the pin too. They aren't that expensive.

When I registered my 110 in France, I had to write to LR in France for a "letter of conformity" or some such. This has the type approval number on it, which is country specific. I had to pay LR France money for the privilege too

I'd be careful about levering the sprockets off the timing chest, it's not the strongest. To remove the sprocket, you'll see 2 threaded holes in it. Drill an iron bar with two holes in the same location Run 2 bolts through the bar and into the sprocket. Place a suitably sized socket between the bar and the crank nose. Tighten each bolt evenly and this'll pull the sprocket off the crank.

Thanks for the suggestions so far Can't actually get the top screws off the FIP with out damaging them . I've a boost gauge which shows all is normal and the fuelling seems to increase with boost. Not sure whether that confirms the diaphragm is ok or not.

Yep, when I removed the return banjo, the spill pipes were still connected. I blocked the banjo, and sucked on the supply No leaks. Reconnected the banjo and I can hear the air bubbling through the system.

This is the diesel veg system. If I remove the banjo on the return from the IP, the pipework is airtight. Reconnecting the banjo, with new copper washers, and there's air coming in from the IP itself.

I've been reading up on other people's problems with air in a looped return line and it seems to possibly be caused by partially leaking seals in the IP. Is there such a thing as an air bleed valve that would automatically purge the air from the return line? I don't really want to have to overhaul the IP again

washers above the jets are AFU1879L washers below are AFU1887L Both are part of gasket kit STC363 Western

Hello All, I've just about finished my veg oil conversion and have run into a bit of a problem. I'm just trying to get it to run on diesel at the moment. The fuel has been replumbed so that the diesel side looks like this: The return line only returns to the veg tank (via the return valve) while flushing after switching from veg to diesel. In normal operation, the IP is basically drawing from the spill rail return as well as the diesel supply. The problem is when trying to prime it there was air in the supply to the IP, which I traced to the return line from the IP. I disconnected the return from the supply valve and it primes fine and runs without out air in the system. Reconnecting the spill rail and the air is back. I've checked the return pipework and there are no air leaks. So to my question; is there some way the that IP itself could be introducing air into the spill return? Any idea where to look? The IP was reconditioned about 2 years ago. Cheers for your input. Looks like I'm not going to be running on veg just yet

Well done in making it this far. Great sense of satisfaction isn't it. It's possible you don't have a drain plug. just do as you did and fill it up Sliding joint nearest the transfer box, to keep it out of the mud.

Yep, always good to read someones first time doing something, as it helps others out in the same situation.

now you have Les' how-to, go for it. It's a pretty easy job. I did +2" springs without spring compressors. Front brake hoses were just long enough. Might be worth getting new turret rings if the existing ones are in bits. Edit to add that a stilson is handy to hold the shock while you undo the lower nuts.

..and then check the swivel moves from lock to lock. If it doesn't the CV is not located correctly.