Gromit

For electrics, I've just bought (and fitted) a socket, bracket and length of cable from Halfords for €25. Bolted the socket to the crossmember, ran the cable through the crossmember, over the fuel tank and up into the recess behind the offside lights, fitted bullet connecters and plugged straight into the loom. The only thing you are missing there is the nearside indicator, so I ran another cable across the truck to supply that. Did it that way to avoid cutting the loom where it exits the chassis, plus that is a messy place to work above your head and I didn't feel like washing crud out of my hair for the next 3 days (Think I wired it correctly, not so sure about the Sankey it is now plugged into - the side lights seem to keep a supply to the stop solenoid when you turn the ignition off Think I've a bit of investigation tomorrow) For a tow bar, just buy your favourite and bolt it on.

cool B) A bit of off road would show just what a hard life prop shafts, bushes etc. have.

On a seperate barcode on the box is this number on its own, so I would say yes.

Set your multimeter to amps and place it in series with the battery. i.e remove one terminal, put one probe on the battery and one on the disconnected cable. If you see amps, something is drawing current. Remove fuses and relays etc until the current stops, and you've found your culprit. Measuring the voltage of the battery while removing fuses etc won't work, unless there's something huge drawing current.

Cheers! Well, you can take a lot of credit for the fact that it still runs, drives well and gets serviced regularly; as can many many other LR owners around the world.

There are universal joints on the column; is this where you are seeing the play? If so, yes they are easy to change.

Hi Howard, On my '91 200 tdi, the bearing are the same, front and back. The numbers I quoted are what is written on one Timkin bearing box, I don't know what they mean, but thought they would make sense to a Timkin person. I assume the last number is the date of manufacture. Sorry I've no number for the oil seal.

Wiggle the brake pads up and down in the calipers and see if you get the same sound. Mine used to make quite a racket, they'd clack as I pressed the brakes and clack again as I rolled to a stop. Now that they've bedded in, the noise has stopped.

I bought one of these and found it as good as a sykes picvant I borrowed, costing twice the price.

If the bearings haven't changed since a '91 200tdi which uses RTC3429, then this Timkin box in front me says the following: LM603049 ------------------------------------ 9X049 LM603011 200704

It's great to hear of all of you that have been in LRs since you were small. I was a late bloomer I've a very early memory of one of the magazines with a defender on the front, winching up a hill I think. I remember thinking that it was just cool and always fancied a 4x4 of some sort. My first car, at 24, was a sensible 306 which I had for a few years. Then when I decided to move to france, I needed something big to carry all my stuff for the move. After looking at a few vans, I decided that living with a van would be a bit soul destroying and then the idea of getting a LR suddenly popped into my head. After a bit of research, I learned what a 110 was and scanned autotrader for a few months and started reading the former incarnation of this forum. When I went to look at the 110, not being used to them, it was a bit of an eye opener; dents, covered in mud, blue with one bright red door. Went for a drive around the local roads, which was a bit of a rush - fun, but vastly different to anything I'd driven. Then we put it in low range for a drive around the fields behind the sellers house. There were a few ruts and the like around the field and I was just astounded that we just trundled over them - that was it - hooked. B) That was 6 years ago. The truck has got me round france and bits of italy, and now back to Ireland. It's been a huge and very enjoyable learning experience. It's been off the road twice for various reasons, and each time I've missed it so much. Last year my brother in law got a 110 too, which he also loves. Funny how an inanimate object can become such a part of your life. Edited to add the photo. This is pretty much as it looked when I bought it. Added wheels, lift and the 2 rear doors. Bro-in-law's 110 parked in front.

You want the meter set to amps to show up draw on the battery.

If it's a railko bush, taking a shim out won't affect it, as the bush isn't tapered. When I discovered similar play, I rebuilt the swivel, the railko bush was shot, but I replaced the bottom bearings for good measure. It's an easy enough job, plus you get to be sure everything is tip-top

Unless the box is shot, you've no need to rebuilt it, do you? Given the effort in dropping the box, you'd be best to also change the clutch , fork and bearing and probably the crank oil seal behind the flywheel.

This is classis symptom of incorrect swivel preload. I suspect that that bearing was masking the vibration, or your steering damper is past its best.

I noticed wear marks on the casing where the oil gears run, nothing too bad though. There was no mention in the workshop manual for the LT77 as to what is acceptable or not, so I can't advise.

Just to bring this part of the thread up to date, I mailed Brian who makes the madman gauges, and yes, there is an update to allow a lower oil pressure alarm to be set. All I know so far is that you need to make up a programming cable and have a PC with parallel port, presumably to re-flash the unit. He hasn't send the update yet.

If it's the madman you're thinking of, it's a great piece of kit. Here's my review of it. I ordered mine from www.landyonline.co.za/

smart ar*e Might take more than 2L though

thanks guys, that's a lot less than I thought.

Barring any unforseen expenses, I might, after planning for ages, get around to painting the 110. B) So, how much paint would I need to paint a 110 CSW, roof and all, with lets say 3 coats? Will be using a roller, if that makes a difference. Cheers! G

That's what I thought, but bowed to superior knowledge. Anyway the solution is easy, just cut the axle on the inboard side of the spring seats and rotate again

..and they probably passed. The French test is a joke. I think this is because it's done by garages, same as in the UK, so there's a bit of variation between garages. When I had my French test done, there was a list as long as your arm which I can hardly remember; leaking oil everywhere, play in a few bushes, loose number plate etc. but it still passed! Personally, I think the national system here in ireland is better as it's more standardised.

In my head, I'd say not really. The EGT is the temp of compustion. The coolant temp is the temp of the surrounding block. If for some reason, due to a blocked rad for example, the engine starts overheating, the coolant temp would rise, but I don't think that you'd see anything in the EGT, but you'd probably see the oil temp rise. This is just surmation, happy to be shown otherwise.

I had the same problem; I think there's a reason one is included in the rebuild kit! The puller wouldn't shift mine so I ended up carefully cutting a slot in it with a dremil and then tapping it round to break the seal, then the puller was able to manage it. Pitty I didn't think to heat the new one. Mind you, I was faffing about so much with lengths of pipe for so long, it would have been stone cold.